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Rex at the Royal is a nod to the Great Migration but misses some Southern basics

Rex at the Royal, the vast and ambitious Southern restaurant with Lowcountry influences, anchors the long-awaited redevelopment of the historic Royal Theater on South St.

Fourteen-ounce duroc bone-in pork chop, sweet-and-sour braised collards, apple butter, and grain mustard sauce at Rex at the Royal on Dec. 29, 2021.
Fourteen-ounce duroc bone-in pork chop, sweet-and-sour braised collards, apple butter, and grain mustard sauce at Rex at the Royal on Dec. 29, 2021.Read moreCHARLES FOX / Staff Photographer