N.J. bill would require cosmetology schools to teach textured hair and promote inclusivity, sponsors say

New Jersey cosmetology schools would be required to teach stylists, barbers and braiders seeking a state license how to work on textured hair under a bill that has advanced in the state Legislature.

It is the latest effort by the state to address hair discrimination amid a growing awareness of bias when it comes to different cultures and ethnic groups. Proponents say that the measure would help promote inclusivity in the hair industry.

“Many people of color have experienced damaged hair or frustration over results because stylists are not adequately trained to work with them,” State Sen. Angela McKnight (D., Hudson) said in a statement of the bill she introduced. “This is a major disservice to both hair-care professionals and clients.”

If signed into law by Gov. Phil Murphy, the bill would require the New Jersey State Board of Cosmetology and Hairstyling to establish curriculum requirements to work with textured hair for licensed schools that teach students in cosmetology, hairstyling, beauty culture, barbering, and hair braiding. Textured hair is defined as hair that is coiled, curly, or wavy.

The bill, S-2495, passed the Senate, 37-0 on May 20. A similar version is pending in the Assembly.

“This is a win-win for the beauty care business,” McKnight said in an interview. “The laws are so archaic.”

The bill would require students to pass a written and practical portion of cosmetology hairstyling exams to obtain a state license to work in a salon or barbershop. New Jersey has about 30 licensing cosmetology and hairstyling schools.

“This is something that should have been done,” said Atiya Johnson. owner of Janas Cosmetology Academy in Clementon. The South Jersey school is among only a handful on the East Coast that has a course that teaches students how to handle textured and Black hair.

Janas recently received a $50,000 grant for scholarships from Beyoncé's public charity foundation, BeyGOOD, to promote Black hair care training. Four other cosmetology schools — in Atlanta, Chicago, Houston, and Los Angeles — were also selected to receive a total of $250,000 in grants.

Johnson, who was 17 when she took over the salon founded by her mother, Wanda, said the school was established because other schools offer little or no training for natural or textured hair. Janas is the only Black-owned and -operated beauty school in New Jersey, according to Johnson.

“They’re teaching off of book knowledge, not experience,” said Johnson, 38, of Gloucester Township. “The schools make a lot of money off Black hair and the Black and brown students are being underserved.”

Jaylah May Israel, 17, a senior studying cosmetology at the Gloucester County Institute of Technology in Deptford, believes the bill would make the curriculum more diverse. The school recently added more mannequins with textured hair, but that’s not enough, she said.

Israel said students are learning how to straighten the textured hair, not how to style it in its natural state.

“It’s definitely a disparity and it’s not fair,” said Israel. She plans to attend a Historically Black College or University, major in chemistry, pursue a career as a cosmetic chemist, and produce Black hair and skin products.

Last fall, state Attorney General Matthew J. Platkin and the Division on Civil Rights reached an agreement with GCIT to ensure that the school teaches students the theory and practice of styling textured hair. The school agreed that at least 20% of its mannequins used for instruction would have Black hair, according to the state.

The agreement resolved an investigation into allegations of race discrimination in the GCIT cosmetology program and accusation that non-Black students were not required to learn skills related to textured hair and that the school lacked enough mannequins for all students.

McKnight said her latest bill is part of efforts by New Jersey and a growing number of states addressing hair discrimination. A 2019 New Jersey law known as the CROWN Act bans discrimination in the workplace or schools based on hairstyle or texture. (The Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair act exists in about two dozen states.)

A December 2018 incident involving a Black wrestler at Buena Regional High in Atlantic County made international headlines after he decided to have his dreadlocks cut to avoid forfeiting his match after a white referee said the teen could not wrestle without covering his hair. A video of the hair-cutting went viral and prompted charges of racism and cultural insensitivity.

McNight, who wears her hair in locs, sponsored a bill signed into law in 2018 that eased the licensing regulations for hair braiders, requiring 40 hours of training for those with prior experience instead of 1,200 hours.

» READ MORE: Gov. Murphy signs hair discrimination bill inspired by South Jersey wrestler who had his dreadlocks cut

In its Texture of Change movement, beauty care giant L’Oreal has called for every state to include all hair types and textures in cosmetology state board licensing and beauty school curriculums. According to its website, more than 65% of the U.S. population has textured hair.

“It’s making sure that all women are able to get their hair done without any stigmas,” McKnight said.