Two new (and tasty) cheesesteaks in N.J. | Let’s Eat

It’s pure coincidence, but two new solid players have just entered the cheesesteak chat in South Jersey. Allow me to share my notes.

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— Mike Klein

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Remember when Anthony Bourdain said that the best Philly cheesesteak is not in Philly? That was his rave for the sandwich at Donkey’s Place in Camden. Since then, the shops all over the 856/609 have improved, and I’ll tell you about one that opened earlier this month, along with another that will open Saturday.

Kampar, Ange Branca’s James Beard-recognized restaurant in Bella Vista, may be down for a while after a fire over the weekend. How long is a while? No one knows. The well-sold Muhibbah dinner scheduled for March 25 will be moved to a new site. Manager Sam Pritchard has set up a GoFundMe for workers, while chef Reuben Asaram, the chef-in-residence on Kampar’s first floor, will do a pop-up on March 3 at Hale & True, the cider bar across the street, with 100% of proceeds going to Kampar staff.

A two-fer from critic Craig LaBan:

Madness of Masala in Trooper, opened by a pair of software engineers, is inspired by regional specialties from the South Indian states of Telangana and Andhra Pradesh, such as the idli karam podi platter shown above. It also makes what Craig calls the region’s best samosas.

Johnny’s Pizza has brought what Craig says are the best of Philly pan pies and New York rounds — plus killer steaks — to Bryn Mawr. Johnny’s happens to be one of those rare spots that excels at both.

The Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board has launched one of its limited-release lotteries, and this one offers registrants the opportunity to buy from the Pappy Van Winkle and Buffalo Trace Antique Collection. Sam Ruland explains the rules and what’s up for sale.

Sugar Crunch, a local company that makes TikTok-approved freeze-dried candy out of name-brand candies, has opened a storefront in the Italian Market. Read on for the details.

🍭 All Aboard Candy Co., Alyssa Bonventure and Emily Grossman’s online candy business, will go the brick-and-mortar route at 20th and Locust Streets, in the former Caffe Vienna and Tortorice’s Specialty Sandwiches. Merch will include pick-and-mix gummies by the pound, including viral Swedish candy, packaged local chocolates, gummy candy like Sugarfina and BonBon, and what they’re calling “candy-adjacent” gifts, such as candy jars. The two started selling and shipping candy boards in 2020 as a pandemic hustle. Mid-May is the targeted opening.

Love & Honey Fried Chicken, Laura and Todd Lyons’ bird shop, is coming to the former Black N Brew at 1523 E. Passyunk Ave., returning chicken takeout to Passyunk Square for the first time since Redcrest vacated three years ago. Franchisee Nafee Hossain said it would open at the end of 2025 after extensive work — but no changes to the iconic Isaiah Zagar mural. Hossain also has a deal pending for a University City location.

First Daughter Oyster Co., off the lobby of the Philadelphia Renaissance Downtown Hotel at 401 Chestnut St. in Old City, will be the fifth restaurant in less than three years from Felicia Wilson and chef Darryl Harmon. Opening will be Thursday, serving all-day brunch and dinner daily, in what was Franklin Social American Kitchen & Bar. Wilson and Harmon started in May 2022 with Amina (104 Chestnut St.), followed by BlackHen (120 Chestnut St.), Fia (13th and Spruce Streets), and Avana (2200 Ben Franklin Parkway). There’s a sixth on the way: Amina Ocean, later this year at 3.0 University Place, a life-science building at 4101 Market St. in University City. First Daughter Oyster’s menu includes oysters, a seafood tower, two lobster rolls (a New England roll with chilled meat, a Connecticut roll served warm), and a surf-and-turf cheesesteak with warm lobster, shaved ribeye, cheese fondue, caramelized onions, and sweet peppers. Details are here.

Mulherin’s Pizzeria, which opened just last April on the ground floor of The Girard — the building at 1175 Ludlow St. that also houses parent company Method Co.’s extended-stay hotel Roost East Market — has closed permanently. Method’s David Grasso said the restaurant got caught in a legal dispute between the developer and contractors. The closing, effective immediately, had been hinted since last week when Method filed a public notice with the Pennsylvania Department of Labor advising that its 39 employees would be let go. At the time, Grasso said the WARN notice was preemptive as negotiations were ongoing. He said workers are being offered jobs at Wm. Mulherin’s Son and Hiroki in Fishtown, as well as the Quoin, its luxe hotel restaurant in Wilmington.

Martorano’s Prime has closed in Fishtown’s Rivers Casino after a year and a half. Mutual decision, said a casino spokesperson, who added that an “Italian kitchen-style” restaurant called Sapore is next for the space. The colorful, South Philly-born restaurateur Steve Martorano still has Cafe Martorano in Fort Lauderdale and a Martorano’s Prime location at Rivers Casino Pittsburgh.

Kismet Bagels plans to double its operation in the next six months, opening four shops in Chestnut Hill, Manayunk, Collingswood, and the Jersey Shore. Chestnut Hill must have folks there cheering, as Jacob and Alex Cohen will be filling Roller’s Express-O at Gravers Lane and Germantown Avenue, which has been empty for nearly eight years. Here’s the (w)hole rundown.

A conflict between the owner of Chubby Chicks, a new brunch spot across from the Forrest Theater in Washington Square West, and the upstairs neighbors reached a peak last week on social media. The restaurant has been packed recently with supporters, including city officials.

Salt & Vinegar, the ambitious grocery store/incubator (905 S. Ninth St.) in the Italian Market that founder Jen Honovic Herczeg grew out of a one-day pop-up in 2022, will close after March 16. In a note on Instagram, Herczeg said she would devote more time to Edible Philly, where she is publisher.

The Morris, the cozy bar/restaurant at the Morris House Hotel (225 S. Eighth St.), will close after service March 9. Owner Bo Hu cited the departures of “key management personnel,” as well as challenges from “the rapidly rising costs of living, goods, and utilities.” Hu said he was seeking a new operator.

East Passyunk Restaurant Week runs through March 7 at 18 restaurants.

Where is Philly Pretzel Factory planning to open several locations?

A) Los Angeles

B) Boston

C) Central Florida

D) Bosnia and Herzegovina

Find out if you know the answer.

What’s happening at Hardena in South Philadelphia? — Jeff S.

Maylia Widjojo is now running the family’s pioneering Indonesian restaurant in South Philadelphia after sister Diana left to venture out with Rice & Sambal. Maylia says the change-of-ownership paperwork, including “one important document,” delayed the reopening. She renovated a bit during the shutdown. Hardena, which also does wedding catering, is a one-woman show. “I’ve just really been trying to keep up as best I could,” she told me. “Juggling with my parents’ poor health and many doctors’ appointments, restaurant life and family life — having to do pretty much everything on my own — is a journey on its own. But thank God my parents still help out when they can and I have a pretty good staff. Hardena, to me, will always be my pride and joy, especially my customers.” Hours are noon to 8 p.m. (last seating at 7:45 p.m.) Wednesday through Sunday.

📮 Have a question about food in Philly? E-mail your questions to me at mklein@inquirer.com for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.

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