Where a chef eats in Grad Hospital

Nestled between Rittenhouse, Point Breeze, and Fitler Square, Grad Hospital, where I live, is an active, gentrified neighborhood. You can tell from the architecture, a mix of old-style rowhouses and sleek, modern boxes. We have old-school bodegas, a hipster taco joint, and, like everywhere else in town, tons of sandwich shops.

I am a chef and the former restaurateur of Musi, which I closed just over a year ago. I’ve lived here for the past five years and, when I go out, I prefer neighborhood spots — the places that give a neighborhood its character and value. They’re there for a quick outing or a special occasion. Most likely you walk to them, unrushed. Neighborhood spots, quite literally, become an extension of your home. Here are my favorites.

At this German-Moroccan restaurant, It’s just Chef Hans in the kitchen. The floor is managed by his wife, Samira. Together, this team have created a spot that feels like the place you’re hoping to find in some small town while road tripping in Europe, except it’s here, in a Philly rowhouse.

I go for the for the choucroute, probably my most favorite dish in the whole world. Hans’ version is about as true to form as one could hope. A buttery and brothy mound of sauerkraut, a soul-warming pile of mashed potatoes, a piece of fatty, braised pork, some bratwurst and frankfurter. I dollop on the Dijon mustard that came alongside my plate of heaven and was lucky to have saved some of the roll from the bread and butter service that greets each guest and is of the variety that’s equal parts store-bought and perfect.

The Berber-style lentil soup with pheasant to start was warm and inviting, pulling me in with cartoonish steam vapors warning me to blow on each spoonful. And the German apple cake that came with a dollop of whipped cream adorned with a perfectly out-of-season raspberry served to remind me to return to try the Jaegerschnitzel and lemon tart. Be sure to bring Tupperware, because the portions are generous.

New kid on the block Illata has had such acclaim in such a short time that it didn’t take me long to go check it out. What I immediately loved about this uber-cute spot is the concise menu. As a chef, I appreciate a menu that reads like it was crafted to fit the constraints of labor and space. (This is in stark contrast to restaurants that expect their labor to contort to the ego of a chef.)

The other fun thing this lets you do is order it all, assuming you have a couple friends in tow, of course. My mini-Algonquin Round Table ordered seven out of nine savory courses and found ourselves delighted by the chicory salad dressed with anchovy and buttermilk and topped with comté. Another standout were the marinated mussels with hakurei turnips, miso, and chili oil. But the menu changes frequently — the schnitzel for which there was so much adoration is no longer available. So you go, you trust, you share. I love that.

The Breakfast Den serves up “Vietnamese American Breakfast Comfort Food.” I like all these words, and how they show up on the plates at this neighborhood gem. The coffee is always on point, and I’m partial to the Chao Ga, a chicken broth rice porridge, aka congee, that is topped with crispy chicken skins. I also love the TBD Breakfast Rice Bowl because of the crispy sunny eggs and the perfect jasmine rice. I usually start with Momma’s Egg Rolls, which are also crispy.

I really like crispy things done right, cause they’re so sad when they’re not. And for me, as a chef, it’s very satisfying to have a source of excellent comfort food consistently made well.

There are a few other spots in the neighborhood I find myself returning to more so than others.

Kei Sushi has been and remains my favorite go-to for takeout sushi. I’m a sucker for yellowtail, so it’s always on my order as well as the Nihon specialty roll that combines tuna, eel, and avocado.

When I get a pizza craving, which is hardly an isolated incident, I’m lucky that I can grab a cheese slice at Pizzata Pizzeria.

Regarding sandwiches in the neighborhood, I’m partial to the OG Porchetta at Porco’s (and I’m waiting with great anticipation for Breezy’s, its second spot, to open across the street and which will sling hoagies and smoothies).

Mom Moms, aside from the pierogi selection it is known for, has got a Czerw’s kielbasy and kraut on a long roll with spicy brown mustard that I love and makes me sleepy.

Sidecar Bar & Grill is my spot for grabbing a beer with friends. And, when I’m not making coffee at home, I stop into Rival Bros. for an Americano. And, should I need a polished cheffy BYOB option to impress a pal, I go to Pumpkin.