Takeout highlights during Philly’s restaurant dining room shutdown | Craig LaBan
If you need a break from cooking, our food critic recommends these restaurants for great takeout or delivery.
I’ve stepped-up my home cooking game since the shutdown. But prepping all that food for a family of four takes a lot of energy, so I’m definitely up for a restaurant break whenever we can. I also want to support as many places that have stayed open as possible, but the list of restaurants that have maintained takeout or delivery is changing all the time. For many, valiant early efforts proved unsustainable on skeleton staffs. The ones that have hung in there aren’t getting rich — they’re simply doing what they can to keep the lights on. But in the process, they’ve also fed me some memorable lockdown meals I’d happily recommend. Here are some favorites so far.
Cubano from Porco’s Porchetteria (2204 Washington Ave.): Philly knows pork sandwiches, but the Roman-style tenderness of the juicy, herb-scented meat from this Washington Avenue sandwich shop and bakery is already in the city’s pig elite, accented by the shattering crunch of a sheet of crackling tucked inside. Try it Philly-Cubano style with pickled giardiniera, Gruyère, and grain mustard aioli on a toasty house-baked ciabatta.
House bun noodle bowl from Vietnam Café (816 S. 47th St.): The West Philly branch of Chinatown’s Vietnamese mainstay has chosen a perfect time to begin delivery. I covet the house vermicelli noodle bowl (bun cha gio chay) because you get a little bit of everything — the ultimate spring rolls, grilled meatballs, lemongrass chicken and pork — over a refreshing bed of pickled daikon and carrots, rice noodles and nuoc mam sauce for a splash of sweet and funky fish sauce zing.
Chicken umami burger from Spot Gourmet Burgers (2821 W. Girard Ave.): Beef burgers and steaks with quality meat are Josh Kim’s calling card. But his fresh handmade chicken burgers are also impressive, 100 times more juicy and flavorful than the usual prefrozen suspects. Get it umami-style with Korean ssamjang sauce, mushrooms, and onions. Delivery was also so timely, brought to us within 40 minutes and a beef burger that was still warm and medium rare, the fresh fries still admirably crisp.
Pasta kits from Little Noodle Pasta Co./ Messina Social Club (1533 S. 10th St.): Fresh pasta has been one of the most successful meal concepts for delivery from several places. I was impressed by the trio of flavors the Little Noodle Pasta Co. served from its home base at the Messina Social Club. Pick a fresh-extruded pasta shape ($18, enough for two), and add sauces and proteins for extra. They arrive in vacuum-sealed bags for extra shelf life and easy boil-in-bag reheating. Flavors change weekly, but we loved the meatballs in gravy, gemelli in kale-pumpkin seed pesto, and macaroni shells in robiola cheese sauce.
Fresh hand pies from the Bakeshop on 20th (269 S. 20th St.): I know several devoted fans who still patronize this charming little Rittenhouse bakery daily for coffee through curbside takeout. Don’t forget to add a babka, scone, or a flaky, sugar-crusted fruit hand pie to that order, which also can be delivered.
The “floagie” from Little Fish BYOB (746 S. 6th St.): Chef Alex Yoon has stepped back from the pricey seafood tastings in favor of bento boxes and hamachi rice bowls. He’s also paying homage to his roots with the “floagie,” an updated take on the fish hoagies his immigrant parents once served at their North Philly deli made with freshly fried fluke and caper mayo. At $18, it’s big enough to feed two.
Mole-stewed chicken from Mole Poblano (1144 S. 9th St.) and lamb tacos from South Philly Barbacoa (1140 S. 9th St.): My family eats Mexican food in South Philly weekly, so we’re grateful these favorites are keeping their takeout fires lit. An order of the signature mole-stewed chicken from Mole Poblano, and a kilo of tender lamb and spicy pancita sausage with the world’s best tortillas and a quart of lamb consommé from Barbacoa kept us happily fed all weekend long.
Issan-style sausage from Tamarind (117 South St.): I love the regional specialties from this South Street Thai standby, especially the flavorful, turmeric- and coconut-marinated grilled chicken and the crispy sausage redolent with lemongrass and chiles served with sweet and spicy sauce for dipping.
Choucroute from Bibou (1009 S. 8th St.): Maître chef Pierre Calmels is now cooking French bistro classics all alone from his four-bell French kitchen in South Philly, with three-course meals for $30 that change weekly. But is there anyone I’d rather cook me a crock of cassoulet, lamb stew, or wine-steeped choucroute laden with garlic sausage and pork? Absolument pas!