El Mezcal Cantina marks Mexican chef Eladio Soto’s restaurant debut
He was executive chef at Tequila's before setting out on his own at this bright, casual double-wide storefront in a former pizzeria in the Point Breeze neighborhood.
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Eighteen years ago, Eladio Soto followed a familiar immigration path from San Mateo Ozolco, a small town in Puebla, Mexico, to Philadelphia, where he found work at Tequila’s, the destination Mexican restaurant in Center City.
Soto started as a prep cook and moved up to executive chef. But the pandemic has emboldened workers in all fields to make changes, and Soto decided to go out on his own. (Coincidentally, chef Dionicio Jiménez, also born in San Mateo Ozolco, left El Rey last year and recently opened Cantina La Martina in Kensington.)
Two months ago, Soto opened the bar-restaurant El Mezcal Cantina, a bright, casual double-wide storefront in a former pizzeria at 1260 Point Breeze Ave. in the city’s Point Breeze section. Israel Sanchez, who grew up across the street from him and whom Soto calls his cousin, is sous chef.
Soto’s menu borrows from multiple regions of Mexico. There’s tacos de trompo, a northern Mexican specialty that riffs on tacos al pastor — pork seasoned with adobo, and cooked on the trompo, or vertical spit, with onion, and pineapple — and then placed on a corn tortilla, which is then griddled on the flat top.
Figure on $12 to $15 for appetizers $18 to $30 for more substantial dishes, including a grilled rib-eye ($22) and red snapper filet with cactus salad ($21).
Rather than ceviche, Soto offers aguachile — a similar dish, rooted in Sinaloa — that uses a quicker, spicier marinade for various fish and seafood. Odilón “Odie” Sandoval, an old friend who runs the front of the house, recommended the red snapper in lime, dried chilies, and olive oil. Aguachiles, priced at $15 and $16, are also served at a four-seat aquachile bar.
Tequilas and mezcals predominate the cocktail list (priced at $12 and $13). Soto got a solid education in those spirits from Tequila’s owner David Suro Piñera, who also owns the Siembra Azul tequila brand.
Hours: 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and noon to 9 p.m. Sunday.