This cheesesteak costs $140. Worth it? | Let’s Eat

Lots of food news this week. I get the lowdown on Philly’s fanciest cheesesteak, Jenn Ladd has the best cookie recipes in town, Hira Qureshi will show you how to crash a holiday bar, Craig LaBan visits a BYOB in Kennett Square, and I’ll serve you a big portion of restaurant news.

— Mike Klein

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Back in 2004 when Stephen Starr opened his Barclay Prime steak house on Rittenhouse Square, everyone oohed and ahhed over the $100 cheesesteak devised by then-chef Todd Mark Miller: Kobe beef, melted Taleggio cheese, lobster, shaved black truffle, sauteed foie gras, caramelized onion, and heirloom shaved tomato on a house-made brioche roll brushed with truffle butter and squirted with homemade mustard, and served with a split of Champagne. David Letterman ate one on Late Night, and our Craig LaBan called it “as good as gimmicks come — a mouthful of firework flavors dimmed only by the sweetness of the brioche roll.”

Change is inevitable. So is inflation, which brought the price first to $120 and then to $140.

Five years ago, chef Mark Twersky reworked the sandwich, subbing in Japanese A5 wagyu beef and a house-made truffled Whiz made of caciotta al tartufo and béchamel instead of the Taleggio.

Now, Twersky has gotten with the Philly program. The cheese is Cooper Sharp, the darling of better cheesesteak shops everywhere. Twersky now pan-roasts the foie and blends it into brandy-laced veal sauce, which glazes the beef and cheese. It’s finished with a drizzle of fried onion-truffle cream and a generous grating of fresh black truffle. The roll is still from the vaunted Parc, Starr’s bistro up the block.

“The former was a decadent, luxurious version of a Philly cheesesteak,” Twersky says, “while the latter is a great Philly cheesesteak that’s decadent and luxurious.” Subtle! And at $140 (including bubbly), it’s a relative bargain, per the Bureau of Labor Statistics’ inflation calculator. That hundred bucks in 2004 is equivalent to $162 now.

How was it, Mike? “A flavor bomb of beefy lusciousness, truffle-punched richness, and cheesy creaminess tucked inside an ethereally airy roll. Winner.”

Also on the cheesesteak front:

For several days recently, Jenn Ladd’s neighborhood probably smelled better than yours. Jenn was tasked with baking holiday cookies for her roundup of recipes from eight notable Philly-area restaurants and bakeries. Among the treats: the caramelized butter and honey sesame cookie from Manna Bakery (shown above), the sourdough chocolate chip from Her Place Supper Club, and the Fig Newton-like goiabinha (guava pastries) from Merenda Box. Jenn’s recipe cards and tips make it easy for you to try this at home.

🍪No time to bake? Here’s where to find some of Philly’s best cookies from 25 bakeries.

Remember the olden days when you could just stroll into a Christmas-theme bar and get your ho-ho-ho on? They’re so popular now, scoring a seat is trickier than you may think. Editor Margaret Eby asked colleague Hira Qureshi for tips on how to crack the code.

🎄Our roundup of holiday bars: We’ve found the winter wonderlands.

Sweet Amelia’s — a charming BYOB in Kennett Square and not to be confused with Sweet Amalia Market & Kitchen, the South Jersey oyster destination — has ambitious chef-owners with a seasonally driven menu that, at its best, feels relevant and sometimes daring. Craig thinks it has potential.

If you need a restaurant for a group, Hira Qureshi has 13 places in the Philadelphia area.

Too tired to cook? Then it’s pizza night! Here are our picks.

We have 19 holiday markets for your retail needs.

Come to think if it, we round up all kinds of “Philly’s bests.” Go here and explore.

Caribou Cafe at 1126 Walnut St. has a new owner, effective Monday. Chef-owner Olivier Desaintmartin, who took it over in 2003, has turned over les clés to chef Townsend “Tod” Wentz, who owns Oloroso and The Hayes across the street, as well as A Mano in Fairmount, Townsend in South Philadelphia, and — effective Friday — Oltremare at 2121 Walnut St. Caribou is staying open. Wentz said he intends to keep the name and staff (four of whom have been there 20-plus years), and will freshen it up in 2024. Bruno Pouget founded Caribou in 1988 at 24th and Lombard, and a year later moved it to 1121 Walnut St. — which is now Oloroso. (Now cue the theme from The Twilight Zone.) Pouget moved Caribou into the current spot in 1993. Desaintmartin, 62, said he would begin consulting after a trip back home to France.

Downtown Haddonfield will get a bagel cafe next spring from Chris Fetfatzes and Heather Annechiarico, whose Philly holdings include Grace & Proper and Hawthornes. Penny’s Bagels will take the former Joey’s, A Unique Boutique at 212 Kings Highway East. They’ll bake on premises and round out their coffee/bagel menu with smoked fish.

Pizza Richmond is on its way to 3136 Richmond St. in Port Richmond from the partnership behind Sally, Pizza Shackamaxon, and Martha. The 20-seater, with counter service, will be down the block from the soon-to-close Lunar Inn. Partner Michael Parsell says the pizzas will be the same as Shackamaxon’s, though it will offer toppings and a classic white pie will be available at all times. Salads and soft-serve will also be on the menu, and this location will actually have a phone for orders.

Bake’n Bacon, Justin Coleman’s bacon-theme bar at 11th and Ellsworth Streets in South Philadelphia (which I first told you about in October 2022), is looking to soft-open this weekend. It will run BYOB until the liquor license arrives.

Chef Townsend Wentz has spent the better part of the pandemic redoing his Rittenhouse location of Townsend (2121 Walnut St.), and Friday, he will unveil it as Oltremare, whose big windows and open layout (with hues of blue, plus white marble and wood accents) dovetail with his concept of seafood-influenced Italian cooking.

The 70-seat dining room backs up to the 12-seat bar, all overlooked by additional mezzanine seating. Wentz and chefs Ted Manko and Christopher Reid are offering handmade pastas, crudos, and entrées, and the bar is stocked with extensive selection of amari and Italian wines. Above is the fluke ceviche with mussel vinaigrette, Fresno chili, and shisho. Figure high teens for antipasti, low $20s for starters, and mid to high $30s for entrees, topping out at $42 for a huge ossobuco on Taleggio polenta.

Oltremare, 2121 Walnut St. Hours (from Dec. 8): 4:30–10 p,m. Tuesday-Sunday. Reservations via Resy. ADA accessible on street level.

Don’t you love colleague Steve Madden’s illustration on our story about dining spots around Independence Mall? Craig LaBan and Margaret Eby and other staff members give their recommendations.

Tavern on Camac, the Gayborhood landmark (243 S. Camac St.), has a new chef: Henry McGuigan, whose short rib mac and cheese will raise funds through January for the Attic Youth Center. McGuigan, 46, became a pro chef only at age 39, after his retirement from the Coast Guard and with the blessing of his wife, Kendra. He’s worked at Zahav, K’Far, and June BYOB and says he hopes to bring “a bespoke approach to New American tavern cuisine.”

The Chef Conference, now sponsored by Visit Philadelphia, American Express, and Resy in its new incarnation, has released its agenda as tickets have gone on sale for the 2024 outing, April 12-15. The first three days will include pop-up dinners, book events, and happy hours, while Day Four will include 13 panel discussions of Very Important Restaurant Issues. Info is here.

Chef Yehuda Sichel’s matzo balls, which helped cinch his win on a 2021 episode of Beat Bobby Flay, will reach the Main Line this Hanukkah season. Sichel, owner of Huda near Rittenhouse Square, has “lent” the recipe to Leanne DelVescovo and Alia Sobel of Lentil & Co., the mission-driven Mediterranean quick-serve in Ardmore. The balls will turn up in Cozy Lentil Soup; you get one in a 12-ounce bowl ($7.77) and three in a quart ($15.55). Lentil & Co.’s soup sales benefit Ardmore Food Pantry through the end of January.

Pita Chip co-founder Omar Alsaadi immigrated to the United States from Syria in December 1979, and each year on his “Americaversary,” he offers free falafel wraps and bowls to the first 79 customers at each location. Starts at 11 a.m. Friday at Pita Chip: 3601 Market St. in University City, 1600 N Broad St. on the Temple campus, and 1623 Big Oak Rd. (Oxford Oaks Shopping Center) in Yardley. Those who miss the giveaway can buy a bowl or wrap for 79 cents all day. All proceeds that day’s sales will benefit Caring for Friends and Interfaith Food Alliance, both of which help fight food insecurity.

Lonsa, the spicy-sweet tomato-based condiment by the local company Aaji’s, has wowed Liberty Kitchen PHL chef Beau Neidhardt. He will host a kitchen takeover from 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Friday, including it in a chicken cutlet sandwich; a breakfast sandwich with merguez; mac and cheese; and a tomato pie. In addition to the menu specials, the first 40 customers beginning at 10 a.m. will receive a free 8-ounce container, which comes in four flavors: original; spicy; garlic; and spicy garlic (regularly priced at $10). Poorva and Rajus Korde will also have a table inside of Liberty Kitchen for samples. (This stuff is amazing, by the way.)

The American Vegan Center will host Watta Kesselly at 2 p.m Saturday for a cooking class modestly titled, “Make the Best Jollof Rice.” The center is at 17 N. Second St . In-person admission is $20; Zoom attendance is free. Details are here.

James Beard Award-winning Friday Saturday Sunday, marking its seventh anniversary this week, will host New June Bakery for a birthday cake slice event from noon-3 p.m. Saturday, or while supplies last. The flavor that will be served on the bar is Assassin’s Handbook Tiramisu — layers of orange-zested olive oil citrus chiffon, mascarpone custard, mulled wine and Jamaica rum soak, Amaro Averna mixed-berry compote and Valrhona cocoa brut, frosted with a citrusy hot habanero Swiss buttercream, at $10 a slice.

The East Passyunk Hot Chocolate Crawl, from 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday, has gathered nearly 20 restaurants, eateries, cafes, sweet shops, ice cream parlors, and coffee shops to serve. Buy a souvenir mug for $12 at 1904 E. Passyunk Ave., and you can pay $3 for classic and artisanal (nonalcoholic) drinks, $6 for boozy premium cocoa, and $8 for cocoa with ice cream. Details are here.

Fishtown Pickle Project’s Feast of the Seven Pickles will return for a third year. Niki Toscani and Mike Sicinski will head to Martha in Kensington on Dec. 19 to collab with executive chef Andrew Magee and general manager Dan Miller. Their “Philly Favorites” theme includes scrapple, a cheesesteak, an interpretation of a peanut butter Tastykake from Sweet T’s Bakeshop, and pickle gelato from Vita in Rittenhouse. They’re offering three seatings ($95 a head, including a glass of bubbly), and while the 7 p.m. is sold out, tickets remain at 5 and 9 p.m. Details are here.

Rounding up a few recent closings:. Manoa Diner, which has been around for decades in Havertown’s Manoa Shopping Center, has announced its closing, Dec. 31. It’s not citing a reason. ... After 14 years, Amani’s BYOB in Downingtown and its newer cocktail bar (a satellite location of Boardroom Spirits) closed abruptly last weekend; owners Jonathan and Jeanine Amman have not returned a message seeking comment, but posted this farewell on Facebook. Tortorice’s Specialty Sandwiches, which recently buttoned up at 20th and Locust rather than agree to what owner Jonathan Tortorice called a big rise in rent, is still around. Tortorice is now catering and fulfilling large orders out of a ghost kitchen. Carlo’s Bake Shop’s Philadelphia location at 21st and Walnut has closed. The location in Marlton remains.

Gus’ hot dog cart on South Street recently closed with the owner’s retirement. How long had it been there?

A) 50 years

B) 45 years

C) 40 years

D) 35 years

Find out if you know the answer.

This week, readers, I want to ask you something: Do you think you’ll get a restaurant gift card or certificate this holiday season? Great. Now let me tell you the first thing you need to do with it, and if you’re thinking of giving one, I have an even better idea.

📮 Have a question about food in Philly? E-mail your questions to me at mklein@inquirer.com for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.

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