When I was a younger, thrill-seeking critic, I’d yawn at restaurant chicken as a safety option for timid eaters. But I’ve wised up over the years. Philadelphia chefs proved me wrong with constant reminders that a well-prepared bird is one of the kitchen’s ultimate tests, a blank poultry canvas for a cook’s creativity, technique, and respect for ingredients to be put on clear display. And when it’s done right — roasted, fried, stewed or winged — a great chicken can provide all the comfort and thrills I need.

Wing Around the World

Chicken wings aren’t just football food. They’re a year-round international obsession, and Philly’s kitchens represent the full global spectrum.

Salt-baked wings at Tasty Place, 2 bells (basement at 143 N. 11th St.): These Cantonese-style wings are so good — marinated a day in ginger and scallions, then wok-fried inside a cornstarch crust that that grabs the chile rings, scallions, and salt — they’re worth a trek to the underworld of this subterranean Chinatown market kitchen.

Black garlic wings at Cheu Fishtown, 3 bells (1416 Frankford Ave.): The Cantonese-style salt-and-pepper crust gets the hipster fusion upgrade of black garlic caramel with lime and sesame at this creative Fishtown noodle bar, as well as its original 10th Street outlet.

Malaysian wings at Sate Kampar, 3 bells (1837 E Passyunk Ave.): Angelina Branca uses the same sate spice that she does for her skewers, but crusted on to full blade-to-tip wings, there’s an added dimension of bone-in savor.

Deep-fried wings at Henri’s Hotts Barbeque, 2 bells (1003 E. Black Horse Pike, Hammonton, N.J.): People come for the excellent smoked meats at Doug Henri’s South Jersey roadhouse, but he also happens to make some of the best fried chicken anywhere. It’s even better as meaty wings served with a shimmer of his dark and tangy honey-kissed sauce.

Classic wings get an update at Ripplewood in Ardmore (29 E. Lancaster Ave.): Chef Biff Gottehrer confits the sage- and spice-cured wings to tenderness in a hot schmaltz bath then crisps and glazes them to finish in the funky spice of house-fermented fresno chile hot sauce.

Korean-fried chicken wings at Southgate (1801 Lombard St.): These super-sized wings are a polished rendition of the “KFC” genre (other favorites include Soho Cafe and Andy’s Chicken), but this Korean gastropub has mastered the double-crust crackle, with juicy meat and a sauce so fragrant, you can smell its sesame and soy-sweet spice wafting halfway up 18th Street.

Old-school Buffalo-style wings at Moriarty’s Irish Pub and Restaurant (1116 Walnut St.): for those who crave the nose-tickling, neon-orange spice of classic Buffalo wings, this venerable Irish pub serves them plump, crisp, and punchy with Frank’s hot sauce heat.