TIM TAI / Staff Photographer
Red Gravy Comfort

When legendary Sixer Bobby Jones was inducted recently into the Pro Basketball Hall of Fame, he reminisced fondly over the city’s old-school red gravy parlors: “I loved the Itallian spaghetti in Philly,” Jones told Billy Penn.

The account prompted a reader to write to me: “What is ‘red gravy’ spaghetti, and can you let us know if any of these still exist in Philly?”

Those of us who speak fluent South Philadelphian know this is, most simply, the local term for red sauce. On a deeper level, though, “red gravy” also refers to a way of life for a city with Italian roots that reach back to the late 1800s when immigrants settled into the rowhouse neighborhoods of what became the Italian Market. Their simmering tomato pots — “gravy” with the addition of meatballs, sausage or braciole — perfumed the air with a gusto that would define South Philly’s iconic Italian-American cuisine for a century.

The old neighborhood is now undergoing dramatic transformation, and our Italian menus overall have evolved considerably since the early 1980s. But luckily, there are nonetheless still several places keeping the red gravy tradition alive — well enough that the “Secretary of the Defense” could easily relive his old Sixers spaghetti days.

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Villa di Roma
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Palizzi Social Club
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Scannicchio’s
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Macaroni’s
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Mr. Joe’s Cafe

The Reviews

Select a restaurant to jump to a review
 Superior
Rare, sets regional dining standards.
 Excellent
Special, excels in most every category of the dining experience.
 Very Good
Interesting, with above-average food.
 Hit-or-miss
Too inconsistent for a strong recommendation.
Villa di Roma
Can you smell the meatballs simmering? Basil DeLuca has been hand-making them all morning, just as he has nearly every day for the last 26 years. “That gravy is the heart of this restaurant,” says Basil’s brother, Epiphany “Pip” DeLuca, who, with his five siblings and their children, runs Villa di Roma as his father, Domenic, did beginning in 1963. There are fancier Italians in town and other red-gravy elders, like Ralph’s and Dante & Luigi’s, that have their virtues. But no restaurant magically touches South Philly’s Italian-American soul with as much familial warmth as Villa di Roma, where the unpretentious brick dining room remains a destination for ravioli with garlic bread and fried asparagus in scampi butter.
Beyond the essential all-beef meatballs, there’s a surprisingly deep repertoire handed down from the legendary chef Vince “Cuz” Pilla: zippy chicken Sicilian; sausage broiled Genovese-style with “’scarole” and beans; thick tuna steak in Sicilian tomato sauce sparked with olives and cherry pepper zing. There’s excellent flounder francaise, too, as well rich pastas like the “quattrocini” alfredo variation with prosciutto and spinach, or hearty Ziti Francis tossed with chicken and veal beneath molten mozzarella. Finesse cooking? Definitely not. But my regular desire for veal Parm layered with an extra eggplant cutlet — followed by a cannoli or fluffy tiramisu — is the definition of a power craving.
Also featured in: Salad & Veggies
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Palizzi Social Club
It was a members-only secret for nearly a century, until suddenly everyone wanted to belong to the Palizzi Social Club. The reason? Joey Baldino, who owns Zeppoli, transformed the rowhouse hideaway once owned by his uncle into a tribute to the family recipes he grew up with in the Italian Market, with definitive spaghetti in crab gravy, meltingly tender braciole, and spumoni made in-house. Paired with creative Italian cocktails and late hours that draw an industry crowd, it feels like a time capsule come to life.
Nonmembers need to find an in-the-know host to take them as guests if they want to know what stromboli, fresh sausage, or even a simple Caesar salad can be. A recent meatball special stuffed with buffalo mozzarella? Wow. And Baldino’s hand-shaved water ice, flavored with seasonally steeped syrups (apricot and almond one night), redefine the classic. Its private club status explains why I've assigned no official rating. But Palizzi is nonetheless one of Philly's most essential places to eat.
Also featured in: Salad & Veggies
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Scannicchio’s
Come for the “saw-zidge ’n’ figs,” stay for a taste of old-school South Philly Italian flavors at this friendly corner BYOB. Regulars go for the garlicky steamed artichokes whose leaves are cushioned with seasoned bread crumbs and creamy Pecorino sauce. But don’t miss the standout clams Casino, piled-high seafood pastas, and “Italiano” chops as co-owner and chef Christian Varalli pays homage to his dad’s longtime Atlantic City institution. Over its 16 years on South Broad Street, Scannicchio’s has remained one of the best of a dying breed of legacy Italian-American kitchens while also embracing its place in the neighborhood’s increasingly diverse landscape of newer immigrant flavors. It’s a great stop near the stadiums to pregame on fresh calamari and scungilli fra diavolo — if you’re lucky enough to get a table.
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Macaroni’s
Don’t mistake this impressive independent for the similarly named national chain. Twins Davide and Gianni Primavera’s elegant destination is one of the gems of the Northeast, having evolved over a quarter-century from a small BYOB into a handsome full-service Italian with more than 100 indoor seats and a spectacular back patio lounge (P2) enclosed in glass that rivals any Center City space. The soulful and bountiful Sunday gravy, laden with house-made sausage and meatballs, is one of the best reasons to make the trip.
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Mr. Joe’s Cafe
On a bitter-cold winter day, nothing warms my bones quite like a bowl of scrippelle inside cozy Mr. Joe’s Cafe. This classic Abruzzese soup of Pecorino-stuffed crepe rolls bobbing in nourishing broth represents deep ancestral comfort for many local Italian-Americans, and few restaurants make it with as much of a homey touch as this throwback luncheonette at Greenwich and South Eighth Streets. It’s a passion project of family recipes steeped in Vince Termini Sr.’s big steam kettles in the back of the Termini family’s legendary bakery across the street. Dust that bowl with a snowfall of more Pecorino, proceed to the gnocchi crowned with a silk-tender roulade of flank steak braciola, and then hit one of those famous cannolis for the home run finish.
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WRITER:CRAIG LABANEDITOR:EVAN S. BENNPHOTOGRAPHERS:TIM TAI (LEAD), JOSE F. MORENO, JESSICA GRIFFIN, MICHAEL BRYANT, CHARLES FOX, HEATHER KHALIFA, DAVID SWANSON, STEVEN M. FALK, ELIZABETH ROBERTSON, YONG KIM, MICHAEL S. WIRTZ AND TOM GRALISHPHOTO EDITORS:DANESE KENON AND FRANK WIESEDIGITAL PRODUCTION & DESIGN:GARLAND POTTS AND MEGAN GRIFFITH-GREENECOPY EDITOR:BRIAN LEIGHTONPRINT DESIGN:AMY JUNODAUDIENCE:ROSS MAGHIELSE AND RAY BOYDINTERNS:SERAPHINA DiSALVO AND STEFANIE PERNA