TIM TAI / Staff Photographer
Hoagies & More

Philly is Sandwich City, USA, because our best traits — generosity, old-school craft, diversity, and swagger — are often best expressed on a long roll. Here’s my take on where to sample the ultimate examples of our ever-evolving hoagie craft, with a tasty side of banh mi and a juicy chaser of roast pork.

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Top 25 Pick
Pizzeria Beddia
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Mi-Pals Deli
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Liberty Kitchen
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Top 25 Pick
Martha
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Angelo’s Pizzeria South Philly
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Rocco’s Sausages and Philly Cheesesteaks

Hoagie Honor Roll

I knew I’d become a true Philadelphian when I began needing a regular hoagie fix. And what I began to crave, almost as much as the sandwich, was the smelI of a great hoagie shop: that heady musk of cured meats, sharp provolone, and the toasty warmth of fresh-baked seeded rolls. The great hoagie quest, alas, is eternal. These veteran delis have been mentioned many times, but, if you want to taste the art of the hoagie in its purest, more earnest form, you can’t go wrong with any of these standbys: In South Philly: “Pastificio” and Parma special at Pastificio Deli (1528 Packer Ave.); Italian at Cosmi's Deli (1501 S. 8th St.); eggplant-rich veggie at Antonio's Deli (1014 Federal St.); spicy Italian at P&S Ravioli Co. (1722 W. Oregon Ave.). In Northeast Philly: “Main Event” at Dattilo’s (8000 Horrocks St.); Italian at DeNofa’s (6944 Torresdale Ave.); Italian with olive spread and sharp provolone at Fink’s Hoagies (4633 Princeton Ave.). In Norristown: “Zep” (one meat only, no lettuce) at Eve’s Lunch (318 Johnson Highway).

Banh Mi for You

It’s no surprise our hoagie spirit has embraced the lighter, crispier notes of the Vietnamese banh mi laced with cilantro, pickled carrot, and jalapeño. Mainstream riffs are everywhere. But I prize the perfectly constructed layers of the tidy classics built with grandmotherly care at one of the Philly originals, 35-year-old Cafe Cuong (811 S. 8th St., 215-574-0527), where the mixed-meat Deluxe on a still-toasty roll is my move, and the lemongrass chicken is also wonderful. Go for the BBQ pork banh mi from hoagie powerhouse Ba Le Bakery (606 Washington Ave., 215-389-4350), which makes its own rolls around the corner. In Chinatown, the lemongrass tofu banh mi with mushrooms at QT Vietnamese Sandwich Shop (48 N. 10th St., 267-639-4520) is one of my favorite deadline-day lunches.

Roast Pork, Always

Long before the cheesesteak stole the spotlight, the soulful roast pork was the sandwich idol of Italian South Philly. One of the best remains the signature specialty at John’s Roast Pork (14 E. Snyder Ave., 215-463-1951), where the thin-sliced meat simmers in a pan of juice, and eats like a river of garlic and rosemary on a bun lined with provolone and spinach. It’s rivaled by the “new” pulled pork shoulder at another classic, DiNic’s Roast Pork (215-923-6175) in the Reading Terminal, where I dress it with rabe and long hots. Other great examples can be sampled at Mr. Joe’s Cafe (1514 S. 8th St., 215-334-1414),  the “Arista” at Paesano’s (148 W. Girard Ave.), and at Tony Luke’s (multiple locations), where the pork sandwich is my go-to choice for a game at Citizens Bank Park.

The Reviews

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 Superior
Rare, sets regional dining standards.
 Excellent
Special, excels in most every category of the dining experience.
 Very Good
Interesting, with above-average food.
 Hit-or-miss
Too inconsistent for a strong recommendation.
Pizzeria BeddiaTop 25 Pick
The whole notion of a “hoagie omakase” is simultaneously the most preposterous and most Philly thing ever. Who would ever pay $500-plus to sit with a handful of friends in a private room and eat hoagies, that crusty emblem of our blue-collar soul? Turns out, a lot of people, once they learned that pizza genius Joe Beddia hatched this plan for a hidden alcove at the back of his popular pizzeria. And the fee pays for much more than just six hoagies — most of the menu, in fact, including several stellar pies, dessert, and a round of drinks.
It also turns out, these aren’t just normal hoagies, either. They’re built on exceptional house-baked rolls by hoagie master John Walker (“Hoagie Wan Kenobi,” jokes Beddia), who meticulously layers in three different kinds of stuffings. Tucked between the delicate crunch of both top and bottom crusts, each resonates with extra vivid volume.
Bitter broccoli rabe, sweet peppers, and deeply caramelized mushrooms with lemon aioli. Oily tuna amped up with a back beat of smoked sardines, moistened by sweet golden tomatoes, piquant tapenade, and a creamy ribbon of Boursin cheese. Walker’s classic Italian, meanwhile, looks remarkably familiar. But every detail is so perfectly tuned: the sheer pink sheets of spicy capicola and sweet mortadella peeled straight off the slicer, summer ripe tomatoes, a cushion of shaved iceberg adding spring beneath the young provolone. It’s not so much a “fancy” hoagie as the classic reimagined as its best self. An aspirational hoagie. And we devour it hungrily, hoping to glimpse a piece of our best selves, too, in that splendid feast.
Also featured in: Pizza, Salad & Veggies
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Mi-Pals Deli
Everyone covets a hoagie secret, that corner deli that locals know but never mention because they want it for themselves. Well, brothers Tommy and Mike Palestino made it 35 years before I stumbled into their South Philly corner and fell head-over-hoagie for their fiery Inferno, an imported-meat Italian laced with fat-marbled “gabagool” and the extra kick of  a long hot. Mi-Pals rises on the sliced-to-order standard, but also satisfying takes on other standards like fresh chicken cutlets. Just don’t ask where they get their perfect rolls: “That?” says Tommy, “I’d like to keep a secret.”
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Liberty Kitchen
Those who miss Salumeria from the Reading Terminal can find the elusive taste of its signature balsamic dressing once again at this new artisan deli in South Kensington, launched by former Salumeria employee Matt Budenstein. The must-order here, though, is the Della Casa, a zesty Italian with locally made “gabagool” from 1732 Meats wrapped around milky fresh mozzarella that’s stretched in-house daily.
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This fun-loving Kensington gastropub has always been on the avant-hoagie-garde, its “veggie jawn” sparked by a brilliant “coppa” terrine of fermented carrots, the sweet smoke of Lebanon bologna tangling with kimchi aioli and pineapple jam for Da Dutchie. Leave it to Martha to hoagie-fy the waffle, too, mixing bits of charcuterie into the batter, then layering it with salad over long hot pepper pesto and maple syrup for the ultimate sweet-’n’-spicy brunch insanity.
Also featured in: Something to Drink
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Angelo’s Pizzeria South Philly
Yet another hot new pizzeria to raise the hoagie standard by baking its own rolls, Angelo’s makes bold sandwiches that are as much a draw as its pies. The most over-the-top among them is the Drunk Cutlet, at once a sloppy monstrosity and marvel of dairy excess — fresh mozz, creamy ricotta, and a pink wave of blush sauce — that overflows a hoagie boat of chicken cutlets that tastes pretty darn good sober, too.
Also featured in: Pizza, Cheesesteaks
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Rocco’s Sausages and Philly Cheesesteaks
Most people go to home improvement stores for building supplies and spring flowers. I go to inhale the smell of Italian sausages roasting in coils on the flat-top griddles inside these surprising little grill hut havens that front several Home Depots. I get my Conshy Bakery roll stuffed with a mix of hot and sweet links, but am counting on an early morning lightbulb or battery run soon to sample the well-regarded breakfast sandwiches.
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WRITER:CRAIG LABANEDITOR:EVAN S. BENNPHOTOGRAPHERS:TIM TAI (LEAD), JOSE F. MORENO, JESSICA GRIFFIN, MICHAEL BRYANT, CHARLES FOX, HEATHER KHALIFA, DAVID SWANSON, STEVEN M. FALK, ELIZABETH ROBERTSON, YONG KIM, MICHAEL S. WIRTZ AND TOM GRALISHPHOTO EDITORS:DANESE KENON AND FRANK WIESEDIGITAL PRODUCTION & DESIGN:GARLAND POTTS AND MEGAN GRIFFITH-GREENECOPY EDITOR:BRIAN LEIGHTONPRINT DESIGN:AMY JUNODAUDIENCE:ROSS MAGHIELSE AND RAY BOYDINTERNS:SERAPHINA DiSALVO AND STEFANIE PERNA