TIM TAI / Staff Photographer
Jewish Deli

Growing up in a Jewish family, my favorite night was always dinner at the deli. The height of flavor. The epitome of comfort. A childhood sensation I still conjure: the vision of hot corned beef glistening pink between slices of crusty rye setting off alarm bells of hunger deep within my DNA. But deli love is hardly an ethnic exclusive. Inquirer photo editor Alejandro Alvarez, who is Mexican-American, tells me I owe him a corned beef sandwich every time he does me a favor. And he isn’t joking. So, after handing off photo assignment No. 45 for this Dining Guide, we strolled to the Reading Terminal Market, took a counter seat at Hershel’s East Side Deli, and I paid the man his due in deli meat.

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Hershel’s East Side Deli
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Famous 4th Street Delicatessen
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Middle Child
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Abe Fisher

Suburban Delis That Satisfy

Traditional Jewish delis remain some of the best casual neighborhood restaurants serving homemade comfort food outside the city limits. For some of the highlights, don’t miss: the creamy blintzes and pastrami combo and all-you-can-eat pickle bar at the Kibitz Room (100 Springdale Rd., Cherry Hill, N.J.); the smoked fish platter and schmaltz-enriched matzo ball soup at Ben & Irv’s (1962 County Line Rd., Huntingdon Valley); the “Shmoozer” combo of corned beef and pastrami layered with coleslaw at Hymie’s (342 Montgomery Ave., Merion Station); the smoky, creamy, whipped whitefish salad at Moish & Itzy’s Deli (21 Summit Square Ctr., Langhorne).

The Reviews

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 Superior
Rare, sets regional dining standards.
 Excellent
Special, excels in most every category of the dining experience.
 Very Good
Interesting, with above-average food.
 Hit-or-miss
Too inconsistent for a strong recommendation.
Hershel’s East Side Deli
My photo editor friend may go for the corned beef, but Philly’s best pastrami is the prize at the small counter of this busy Reading Terminal deli, where the recipe descends from an owner’s uncle who once worked at legendary Katz’s in New York. Self-preservation dictates the fat-laced pastrami is only an occasional treat, so I’ve also honed a deep affection for the roast turkey “Rachel” grilled with coleslaw and Swiss on rye from venerable Kaplan’s New Model Bakery in Northern Liberties.
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Famous 4th Street Delicatessen
The region’s best corned beef is at the Famous, or anywhere, really, that owner Russ Cowan happens to be. The Brooklyn-born deli master has operated several delis in the area, but the 96-year-old Famous, which he bought from the Auspitz family in 2005, has become his ultimate homage to classic deli tradition. There are the impossibly huge piles of fragrant corned beef he cures and steams in-house. Fluffy matzo balls in schmaltz-dappled chicken broth ringed by vegetables and kreplach. Sweet and sour stuffed cabbage. Garlicky Roumanian skirt steak sliced into caramelized onions and mushrooms on a platter big enough for two.
With its vintage white tile and timeless window view onto Queen Village, the Famous also exudes that deli-as-institution vibe: a one-of-a-kind corner of Philly history (and politico power lunch hub) that demands a unique appreciation for the old ways that Cowan happens to possess. Yes, the
portions are too enormous and pricey. But when it’s time for a well-aged salami or the city’s finest smoked fish sliced by hand, there’s nowhere I’d rather go. Previous coverage: Famous 4th Street Delicatessen.
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Middle Child
House-made short rib corned beef is a cornerstone of Matt Cahn’s vision for updating the deli and diner counter tradition with a fresh touch at this 18-seat luncheonette near Jefferson Hospital. And his take on the Reuben is good. But when that corned beef is piled over fluffy eggs and seeded rye for the “Herschel Walker,” you have breakfast sandwich greatness to start your day in mensch mode. Two-bell review: Middle Child.
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Abe Fisher
No, upscale Abe Fisher isn’t a deli. But the flavors of the Jewish Diaspora are the primary source of inspiration at this creative Ashkenazi cousin to Zahav, where chef Yehuda Sichel’s masterful modern takes range from schmaltzy rugelach to Hungarian duck with kishke and steamed pretzel buns, cacio e pepe kugel, gefilte fish reimagined as whole stuffed bass and sublime chicken liver mousse over housemade rye. The giant Montreal smoked short rib feast, though, is a deli lover’s fantasy— and one of the greatest odes to smoked meat indulgence that Philly has to offer. Three-bell review: Abe Fisher.
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WRITER:CRAIG LABANEDITOR:EVAN S. BENNPHOTOGRAPHERS:TIM TAI (LEAD), JOSE F. MORENO, JESSICA GRIFFIN, MICHAEL BRYANT, CHARLES FOX, HEATHER KHALIFA, DAVID SWANSON, STEVEN M. FALK, ELIZABETH ROBERTSON, YONG KIM, MICHAEL S. WIRTZ AND TOM GRALISHPHOTO EDITORS:DANESE KENON AND FRANK WIESEDIGITAL PRODUCTION & DESIGN:GARLAND POTTS AND MEGAN GRIFFITH-GREENECOPY EDITOR:BRIAN LEIGHTONPRINT DESIGN:AMY JUNODAUDIENCE:ROSS MAGHIELSE AND RAY BOYDINTERNS:SERAPHINA DiSALVO AND STEFANIE PERNA