Tasting menus have long been reserved for a special occasion splurge. But after a year of economic turmoil, several restaurants have done away with à la carte options and begun to view the tasting menu as a new standard for doing business.
Diners appear to be open to the change — and paying more for a special dinner — if it means their favorite places can survive. And for restaurateurs who see the fixed-price format as the best way to focus on delivering ambitious meals with smaller staffs and limited hours, the Great Restaurant Reopening has been the moment to make it work.
“Without the pandemic we would not have been afforded the opportunity to pivot to a tasting menu without pushback,” says Hanna Williams of Friday Saturday Sunday, which reopened in February with a $130 eight-course menu. With required prepayment, it has also allowed them to reduce waste and guarantee enough income to allow the restaurant to remove seats for more comfortable dining.
“Given the uncertainty,” says chef and co-owner Chad Williams, “it was the best way to be as flexible as possible. And people are also excited. We’ve had no requests for chicken.”
The movement isn’t just for established fine-dining players like the Williamses, Greg Vernick, and Randy Rucker of River Twice, who added tastings recently. Newcomer Amanda Shulman routinely sells out seats for the ever-changing $65 menus at Her Place, a summer pop-up that’s now signed on for another six months in its bare bones Rittenhouse storefront. Eddie Konrad, the former Top Chef competitor, has used his stellar $95 tastings to draw notice (and new members) to his new perch at South Philly’s 113-year-old Messina Social Club.
Economics aside, the trend has pushed creative chefs to conjure menus with impact and identity that add up to some truly exciting dining experiences, with memorable drink pairings, as well. For chefs like Anthony Andiario, whose five-course $75 menus change weekly, this move is the realization of a long-held desire to focus on cooking inspired by the micro-seasons of ingredients farmers supply him each week.
“For us, it was less about scaling back staff than it was about steering the ship more toward what we originally wanted, to create better meals with more control over everything,” he said, noting that service has benefitted, too, with deeper preparation and a more natural flow of courses. “It holds us to using products at their peak, and allows us to put more work into every dish. It’s simply more inspiring to cook this way.”
If it means our favorite restaurants can continue to thrive at such a high level, it’s inspiring to eat that way, too.
BBQ veal cheek.MONICA HERNDON / Staff Photographer Moving to a $130 eight-course tasting menu was both a pandemic response and natural progression for Chad and Hanna Williams, whose intimate bi-level townhouse in Rittenhouse has evolved into one of Philly’s top dining experiences. The menu reflects the collaborative spirit of a diverse kitchen, delivering bold flavors in beautiful dishes like empanadas, stuffed crispy pig face, and grilled veal cheeks in a black plum-smoked chile barbecue sauce that had its roots in a pandemic pop-up.
Fusilli lunghi with squid, cherry tomatoes, and mint.MONICA HERNDON / Staff Photographer Handmade pastas, prime local ingredients, and a wood-fired hearth fuel one of the area’s best locavore kitchens. Chef Anthony Andiaro’s weekly-changing $75 menus delivers five hearty courses, with optional wine pairings, ranging from $50 to $75. Andiario also allows BYOB for a $25 corkage fee.
Her Place
1740 Sansom St.
Tomato, watermelon, and whipped cheese.MONICA HERNDON / Staff Photographer Amanda Shulman, who has worked for Vetri, Montreal’s Joe Beef, and Momofuku Ko, is crafting her own identity at this pop-up BYOB in Rittenhouse, which has extended another six months.The meals feel like a casual dinner party with frequent commentary from the chef. The food is at once homey and sophisticated, drawing on largely Italian and French inspirations, though Shulman’s wide-ranging interests has also produced a retro lobster Thermidor tribute to an old Bookbinder-themed meal. Another recent menu featured a deconstructed chowder of creamy clams over buttery house brioche toast, a caciocavallo-stuffed meatball flavored like a roast pork sandwich, roast lamb with peppers, tomato cobbler, and profiteroles filled with peaches and cream — a nine-course deal for $65.
Royal Sushi
780 S. Second St.
Chef Jesse Ito prepares sushi at Royal Izakaya.MONICA HERNDON / Staff Photographer After Royal Sushi’s long closure due to COVID-19, Jesse Ito finally reopened Philly’s top omakase bar at the end of September, with fewer seats (eight) and two seatings per night for a $152 tasting of 16 pieces (plus a handroll) of the finest imported Japanese fish. With Royal Izakaya’s à la carte tavern in front humming at a higher level than ever, there is a deep list of sakes and Japanese whiskey for the sushi bar to draw on, with outstanding service to guide the pairings.
Hiroki
1355 N. Front St.
CHARLES FOX / Staff Photographer There is something transporting and luxuriously serene about the 20-bite omakase in the cedar-clad hideaway of Hiroki Fujiyama’s tasting room tucked behind a barrel-shaped concrete door behind Wm. Mulherin’s & Sons. The cooked elements add more substance to the $140 menu, including conger eel, crispy river crabs to eat like popcorn, a dashi-steamed sea bass, and a posh tea sandwich stuffed with Wagyu tartare and truffles. But it is ultimately the sushi course of top-notch Japanese fish (managatsuo, hachibiki, mekajiki, anago), exceptional rice, and craftsmanship where Hiroki stamps its elite-level status, with well-practiced service and a fine sake list to complete an experience that feels like a worthy special occasion splurge.
Laurel
1617 E. Passyunk Ave.
Kombu-cured fluke in buttermilk from Laurel.COURTESY OF LAUREL Nicholas Elmi’s intimate gastronomic atelier remains a prime oasis for a tasting splurge, where the Le Bec-Fin alum and Top Chef champ turns seasonal luxury ingredients into modern French jewel box plates. Kombu-cured fluke in buttermilk, poached lobster with frothy sauce Choron, black bass with kimchi daylilies, and a striking duet of land and sea snails (conch) were among the highlights of our summer menu, which, as usual, had opportunities for truffle and Wagyu upgrades to the already heady $130 six-course menu. The suggested drink pairings, which range from inventive culinary cocktails to junmai sake or well-chosen Euro wines, are worthwhile.
Modo Mio Taverna
705 S. Fifth St.
Chef Peter McAndrews has found a new home in Queen Village for his well-loved Italian trattoria, whose “turista menu” was one of Philly’s original prix-fixe values. It’s $40 for three courses at this location, now with a liquor license, and McAndrews still cooks with two-fisted rustic abandon. Arancini, Roman artichokes, lasagne verde, cacio e pepe, and gnocchi Bolognese are all great options. McAndrews is also one of the most conscientious chefs in an Italian setting, cooking carefully for gluten-free guests.
Agrodolce chicken with gremolata.YONG KIM / Staff Photographer Chef Michael Vincent Ferreri has transported his much-loved modern Sicilian menu from Res Ipsa to the Bok building, where it benefits from stellar views and a good bar. The four-course chef’s choice tasting is the best way to experience a wide range of flavors, and is required for parties of five or larger. A more expansive tasting with 10-plus-courses expected to launch around the New Year and will give Ferreri’s crew more leeway to experiment and push their repertoire beyond the core of coveted favorites.
Ita101
20 S. Main St., Medford, NJ
Kevin Maher’s homage to his 14 years of cooking across Italy is always a delight at this sophisticated BYOB on the charming Main Street of this historic Pinelands town. But Ita101 is at its best with Maher’s weekly $45 menus, whether the multicourse pasta tastings or his ingredient-themed Sunday menus, like a recent ode to shrimp served three ways (stuffed into fried zucchini flowers; roasted over house spaghetti; served with zucchini puree) that make for a satisfying stop on the way home from the Shore.
Steak with farro miso jus and a side of caraflex cabbage, fermented onions, and mustard seeds.YONG KIM / Staff Photographer Few chefs in town pair modernist techniques with seasonal spontaneity, gorgeous plating, and soulful funk as well as Houston native Randy Rucker. A desire to stretch those culinary chops and also make the most of limited seating pushed Rucker to move to a seven-course $85 tasting menu three nights a week. Advanced notice makes it easier to accommodate dietary restrictions. Sundays, which are walk-ins only, are still reserved for à la carte small plates, big steaks, the lust-worthy Mother Rucker burger, and a list of natural and organic pours.
Zahav
237 St. James Place
Salatim with hummus and laffa.TIM TAI / Staff Photographer I’ve long argued Zahav’s Mesibah tasting is both the best way to sample what this modern Israeli trailblazer can do and a relative bargain for both the quantity and quality. During the pandemic, owners Steven Cook and Michael Solomonov streamlined the kitchen to make Mesibah the rule, so everyone gets to taste everything, a feast of no fewer than 17 little dishes ranging from seasonal salads with hummus and taboon-baked laffa, to charcoal-kissed kebabs, an array of mezze, a tender hunk of the smoked pomegranate lamb shoulder, and dessert. For repeat visitors, dinner now can feel something like a favorite Greatest Hits album, though inevitably enhanced with thoughtful seasonal wrinkles to the haloumi, veggies, and fish (harissa-flared Tunisian tuna crudo! Swordfish kebabs spiced with Libyan pilpelchuma!). But Zahav has entered a new phase in its maturity as a national destination. And for first-timers, I can’t imagine a better introduction to Philly’s best-known restaurant. It’s still full of legendary flavors, outgoing hospitality and still, at $72 a person, the best tasting menu value in town.
A Mano
2244 Fairmount Ave.
Insalata di mare with chilled shellfish, fennel, and cured lemon.COURTESY OF GEORGE SABATINO The four-course Abbondanza menu, a family-style feast for $65 a person, is a great way to taste what talented new chef George Sabatino is cooking at this Fairmount neighborhood favorite. Chili-crab salad with chilled tomato-melon soup, house-extruded lumache with sweet corn and porcini butter, and the oil-poached steelhead trout were the favorites from a recent meal.
Bar Poulet
2005 Walnut St.
Of course, there’s a prix-fixe for fried chicken. The $38 three-course option is a smart showcase for the vadouvan-spiced buttermilk-encrusted beauties that come by the bucket at this new chicken and Champagne bar makeover for Tria Taproom. With a salad (go for Roquefort), a side (cauliflower gratin? oui!) and a dessert (banana crème brûlée), it’s a solid deal.
Vetri Cucina
1312 Spruce St.
Marc Vetri’s elegant townhouse haven for alta cucina remains one of the most refined dining experiences in Philadelphia, with outstanding veteran staff pouring stellar Italian wines, ethereal pastas, and more space than ever between tables now spread between two floors. Dinner is no longer quite the spontaneous experience* *when the kitchen would customize free-form menus for guests after a tableside conversation from its repertoire of classics and specials. The once-abundant stuzzichini course also has been pared away. Diners instead choose for themselves from what is essentially a four-course $135 prix-fixe (though with plenty of add-on possibilities), and it’s hard to go wrong. I’m still savoring the chitarra pasta with seafood and bone marrow and the big, tender veal Milanese for two.
Staff Contributors
- Food Critic: Craig LaBan
- Editing: Jamila Robinson, Joseph Hernandez, Evan S. Benn
- Photo Editing: Rachel Molenda, Danese Kenon
- Design & Development: Sam Morris
- Digital: Jessica Parks, Lauren Aguirre
- Video: Kristen Balderas