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THE WINE LIST

It’s been years in the making, but Philadelphia’s wine scene has quickly evolved into as dynamic as any other city’s.

Between 2016 and 2019, reforms to Pennsylvania’s Prohibition-era laws loosened the stranglehold on the state’s and city’s industry. Some of the rollbacks permitted later hours for state-run liquor stores; improved direct-to-consumer shipping; and the ability to purchase wine at grocery stores. Among the most important changes from the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board, though, was the introduction of the Wine Expanded Permit (WEP), which not only introduced wine-to-go sales but also allowed businesses to diversify their stock.

“As a supplier, most of our business was limited to working with bars and restaurants,” says Mariel Wega, Pennsylvania sales manager for Skurnik Wines & Spirits, a national importer and distributor. “Before the WEP became more widely available, retail was limited to what you could find at the state-operated Fine Wine and Good Spirits stores.”

With WEPs, businesses retailers are able to better specialize their offerings, setting themselves apart from state stores. “Local retailers know their neighborhoods and their markets, and these new laws allow them to take advantage of that tailoring,” says Wega.

The PLCB’s stores would sell the most popular or premium wines and spirits, while all other products would be classified as “special order,” in many cases, smaller producers or intriguing imports you won’t usually find. “A lot of the cooler, quirkier bottles, especially for us — Spanish, Latin American wines — are largely unavailable to the public,” says Nathan Johnson, vice president of operations for the Garces Group, which operates restaurants including Center City’s Tinto.

During the pandemic, the special order category became a boon, allowing businesses to carve out niches, like selling natural wines or expanding their regional expertise, improving consumer choices. “Our WEP allowed us to transition into a wine shop and restaurant, which allows us to reach a different clientele while creating another layer of experience and hospitality,“ says Johnson.

Despite these molasses-slow changes, local wine lovers have never been more spoiled for choice. As we wait, we’re lifting a glass to our 10 favorite places to snag a bottle or sip alongside a stellar meal.

Video features wine pours at Vernick Food & Drink.KRISTEN BALDERAS / Staff Videographer
  • 320 Market

    211 State St., Media

    DAVID CUNICELLI

    Despite the state’s monopoly on wine, both the Media and Swarthmore locations of 320 Market have been fighting the fight for natural and low-intervention wines. Scan the shelves and you’ll see a who’s who of natural winemaking pioneers (Arianna Occhipinti and Frank Cornelissen, for starters) alongside splashy newcomers like Brianne Day, Bichi, and La Boutanche. Owner Jack Cunicelli is behind the varied, affordable selection of wines by the glass and bottles to go, but customers will also find grab-and-go food from local producers and craft beer.

  • a.kitchen + a.bar

    135 S. 18th St.

    COURTESY OF A.KITCHEN

    Almost all the wines at this Rittenhouse spot are organic or biodynamic, with an approachable, readable menu that lacks pretension. The award-winning by-the-glass and to-go bottle programs encourage experimentation, with affordably priced bottles for any occasion — skin-contact orange wines and earthy reds for the hip and current, classic bubbles for special occasions, even floral, easy-drinking whites for a random Tuesday.

  • Bloomsday

    414 S. Second St.

    STEVEN M. FALK / Staff Photographer

    Low-key Bloomsday sources an ever-changing list of wines by the glass, a fanciful bottle list, and an excellent stock of wine, cider, and beer in the bottle shop. Behind the bar, you’ll find a cheery selection of by-the-glass vermouths (including the never-the-same-twice house specialty, dubbed Dumpster Juice, pictured above), but don’t miss the exceedingly fun large-format bottles for special occasions. Knowledgeable staff dispel any whiffs of pretension, as quick to suggest a sparkling domestic wine as they are a natty rosé.

  • Di Bruno Bros. Bottle Shop

    920 S. Ninth St.

    Courtesy of Di Bruno Bros

    “For a long time, Philly’s beer scene took center stage,” says Sande Friedman, category manager at Di Bruno Bros., “but I think that has been a bridge for greater consumer interest in wine, which, in turn, has led to cooler, more interesting wine programs.” Around 2018, the 80-year-old Di Bruno Bros. expanded into beverages, developing their expert-level curation in the wine and beer space. “We want to offer a little bit of everything, across wine styles and country, but working with producers who share the same ethos we share with our cheese and charcuterie purveyors.” That means on any given day, you’ll find everything from a fizzy, sunset pink Slovenian piquette to a collaboration with Pennsylvania estate-grown wines from Wayvine Winery and Vineyard.

  • Fond

    1537 S. 11th St.

    COURTESY OF PUNCH MEDIA

    Passyunk’s Fond features a Euro-heavy wine list with prices ranging from $50-$70 for most bottles — an affordable tour-de-force of interesting styles, like crémant (Champagne’s more-affordable counterpart), seafood-friendly muscadet, and intriguing reds from Portugal’s Douro region.

  • Jet Wine Bar

    1525 South St.

    CHARLES FOX / Staff Photographer

    Owner Jill Weber’s (Cafe Ynez, Sor Ynez, and Rex 1516) life as an archaeologist informs much of the wine list at Jet Wine Bar. The list practically beckons you to spin the globe and have an adventure: You’ll find bottles from Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley, albariño from Uruguay, and Indigenous wines from Turkey and the Republic of Georgia.

  • Le Virtù

    1927 E. Passyunk Ave.

    COURTESY OF LE VIRTÙ / KATERI LIKOUDIS CONNOLLY

    Visit Italy without your passport: Le Virtù sources its wine list exclusively from The Boot. Taking cues from the kitchen, the wine list follows suit with wines from Abruzzo — think playful trebbiano and silky montepulciano — but also selections from Lazio, Basilicata, even the island, Sardegna. Our favorite kind of Italian lesson.

  • Kensington Quarters

    1310 Frankford Ave.

    Kensington Quarters has one of the best happy hours around (white, red, and rosé wines of the day clock in at $7 a glass), but the bottle list is full of gems. Peek around and you’ll find reasonably priced organic, sustainable, and biodynamic wines (Papras “Pleiades,” a skin-contact wine from Greece named after the nymphs of the stars, is a favorite), but the short-and-sweet reserve list invites willing participants with larger-than-life selections.

  • Tinto

    114 S. 20th St.

    CHARLES FOX / Staff Photographer

    “Philly is a great BYOB town, and selling Spanish wines out of Tinto feels like a natural extension of that culture,” says Nathan Johnson, the vice president of operations for the Garces Group. Stop by for tapas and pintxos or to pick up specially curated wines through the Spanish-focused wine club. Bottles range from affordable whites like Ameztoi Blanco, a semi-spritzy, lemon-candy-tart Txakolina, or the more premium Finca Dofi bottle by renowned winemaker Alvaro Palacios.

  • Wine Dive

    1506 South St.

    CHARLES FOX / Staff Photographer

    There was a time (ahem, the ’90s) when cork art and corny quotes on a wall defined an era of wine establishment. Those days are thankfully gone. “We wanted to totally reimagine what people normally think of as a wine bar,” says Chris Fetfatzes, who co-owns Wine Dive with Heather Annechiarico. “I definitely think having establishments like Wine Dive has really put the spotlight on what was missing from that traditional idea.” Here, you’ll find quirky art (think antique mirrors on ceilings, neon lights, and antique photos) alongside 215-plus international, small-production natural wines from Austria to South Africa and everything in between, specially sourced by Fetfatzes and crew — at any given time, they’ll be pouring 20-30 wines on the glass. “I think people learn more in an atmosphere that is comfortable,” says Annechiarico.

Staff Contributors

  • Reporting: Joseph Hernandez
  • Editing: Jamila Robinson, Evan S. Benn
  • Photo Editing: Rachel Molenda, Danese Kenon, Frank Wiese
  • Design & Development: Sam Morris
  • Digital: Jessica Parks, Lauren Aguirre
  • Video: Astrid Rodrigues, Kristen Balderas