The hunt for life-giving ‘country food’ in the Canadian Arctic
In the village of Inukjuak, men hunt seal, beluga, and wild caribou both to maintain traditional knowledge and to provide a vital source of sustenance to their community.
Jusipi Echalook, 18, carries a ringed seal skin to the water while hunting in Inukjuak, Quebéc. Each 150-pound seal can feed 20 community members for a week.Monica Herndon / Staff Photographer
For thousands of years, the Inuit have lived above the arctic tree line as hunters and gatherers in an ice-based landscape. Over the past century, they’ve faced a number of threats to their way of life, including decades of oppression and culture-stripping initiatives by the Canadian government. But climate change may be the most existential threat to their way of life yet.
Many in the community of Inukjuak, which lies 900 miles north of Montreal in the Canadian Arctic, still rely in part on hunting for subsistence; processed Western food has had negative health consequences among the Inuit. The traditional diet, known as “country food,” includes fish, wild caribou, game birds, and fatty marine mammals like seal and beluga, often eaten raw, frozen, or cured — a way of eating for which the Inuit have unique genetic adaptations.
In the face of these challenges, people like Willia Ningeok — the manager of Unaaq, a men’s association that organizes hunting trips like this one in October 2024 — are working to preserve Inukjuak’s cultural heritage and pass on traditional knowledge and foodways to the next generation. Recently, the village celebrated the premiere of a new documentary about their community, A Century After Nanook, with a community feast of country food. “It’s about food security,” says Ricky Moorhouse, 40, the current town manager. “There’s a lot of people that still eat country food every day.”
Willia Ningeok’s sled dogs watch the hunt from an island. Ningeok is a general manager for Unaaq, the Inukjuak men’s association that organizes hunting trips and other activities to pass on traditional Inuit skills to youth.Jusipi Echalook, 18, pulls a canoe onto shore as a sled dog looks on. Hunting has been impacted dramatically by the warming environment.
Daniel Inukpuk, 18, left, and Jusipi Echalook, 18, take aim while hunting for seal and eider ducks near Harrison Island. Later freezes and earlier spring thaws have eliminated two months of winter hunting.Hosea Aculiak, 21, cleans a ringed seal skin. Every part of the animal will be meticulously harvested: organs, flesh, fat, and bones.
Hunters dock their boats on an island after hunting seals.
Inuit hunters skin a ringed seal. Hosea Aculiak says, “My mother makes clothing out of the skin.”Hosea Aculiak, 21, holds a braided seal intestine while hunting. Later, it will be dried and eaten.
Jusipi Echalook, 18, (from left) Daniel Inukpuk, 18, Granny Kasudluak, 33, and Hosea Aculiak, 21, pull in nets while hunting for beluga. The small white whales have been a staple of the Inuit diet for at least 4,000 years.Hosea Aculiak, 21, moves a ringed seal skin while hunting. Last year, Aculiak tried to leave Inukjuak. He returned after six months.
A ringed seal skin floats in the water after being prepared by Inuit hunters.Hosea Aculiak, 21, gives Willia Ningeok, 40, pieces of ringed seal liver after hunting. Caribou, seal, and beluga have become essential to the Inuit’s nutritional needs.
A ringed seal skin is stretched out to dry at the home of Phoebe Atagotaaluk.
Phoebe Atagotaaluk watches as her daughter, Lulu Atagotaaluk, 11, uses tools to remove water from a seal skin at their home.Hosea Aculiak’s mother Phoebe Atagotaaluk stretches out a seal skin for drying at her home.
Dora Oweetaluktuk eats eider duck during the country food feast at the community center. The spread is a mosaic of cut-up chunks of raw game, amounting to five belugas and five caribou.
Advertisement
Subscribe to The Philadelphia Inquirer
Our reporting is directly supported by reader subscriptions. If you want more journalism like this story, please subscribe today