Is the Jersey diner coming back? | Let’s Eat

We’re seeing signs that the Jersey diner is not dead yet. Also this week, we’ve found what could be the most theatrical bakery in Delco as well as a city bakery that’s gone legit after running afoul of the authorities. Read on for a new lounge at a steakhouse, an outside bar on the Main Line, and restaurant news around town and at the Jersey Shore.

— Mike Klein

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For years, people have been sounding the death knell for the Jersey diner, but now our Kevin Riordan, who’s been roaming the highways of South Jersey for four decades, sees a glimmer of hope.

The Malaga, which closed last fall, is reopening. Geets has decided not to sell, as has the Medport. And Amy’s Omelette House is taking over the old Star View. In Burlington County, the Pandora Diner mini-chain soon will open its fourth location, at what was the Diamond Diner in Hainesport.

I stopped at the Pandora in Cinnaminson the other day — spotless, cheery staff, decent food. And, I’ll add, it’s open 24 hours a day, the mark of a true diner. Mark Matthews, who tracks South Jersey eats for his site 42Freeway, told me that the 24/7 options in Camden, Burlington, and Gloucester Counties are limited to that Pandora location and the 130 Diner just up the road in Delran. There are two more — the Deepwater, by the Delaware Memorial Bridge in Carneys Point, and the Golden Pigeon in Bridgeton — if you can’t sleep and feel like a road trip.

What’s driving this confidence in diner land? Take a seat and Kevin will explain.

🍞 Robert Smythe is one of the most influential puppeteers in America. He’s also the baker behind Pastry Pants, which he launched from his driveway before moving into a shop in downtown Swarthmore. Maria Yagoda pulled some strings and landed a sit-down with Smythe, known for his muffins and giant, oozy cinnamon rolls.

🍞 Dead King Bread turns out crusty sourdough, pillowy milk bread, and sunflower-studded rye loaves from an old sawmill in Roxborough. Jenn Ladd tells how they were shut down by the city but have managed to go legit.

There’s a fresh retro-swank appeal to the refashioned lounge at Rittenhouse Grill, one of Center City’s veteran steakhouses. It was the Prime Rib when it opened in 1998 in the Radisson Plaza Warwick Hotel. Shortly after the 2019 death of founder “Buzz” BeLer, the family removed the Prime Rib name and affixed it to a new location at Live! Casino & Hotel in South Philadelphia. Rittenhouse Grill owner Garth Weldon — who started working at Baltimore’s Prime Rib in 1976 and has run Philly’s all the while — removed a wall near the bar to expand the lounge. He’s also doubled down on the leopard motif, as you can spot clearly in the photo above. Happy hour is 4:30-6:30 p.m. Wednesday-Friday, and art fans should ask to check out Weldon’s collection of 12 serigraphs by artist David C. Driskell, displayed in the private dining room.

Lola’s Garden in Ardmore’s Suburban Square has opened a 10-seat wine bar on the patio next door. Cool feature: A state license allows patrons to enjoy drinks in the shopping center’s adjacent common area. It will be open March to December, weather-permitting, from 3-8 p.m. Friday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Saturday, and 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday. Wines (and manager Ilona Ahearn has assembled some good ones) are 25% off from 3-6 p.m. Friday.

Why do we call it a hoagie? This question was posed to our “Curious Philly” channel, where Inquirer journalists answer your burning questions. (One of my favorites: “Why don’t Regional Rail trains have restrooms?”) We’ve heard various explanations for the “hoagie” name, and our hero — Milan Varia — did a deep-dive into the lore.

This particular hoagie above is the Daddy Wad from Paesano’s in the Italian Market, a collection of meats, provolone, sun-dried tomato, sweet and hot peppers, arugula, and oregano vinaigrette.

Michael Schulson has decided to separate business and pleasure. The deal announced in February to place two Schulson Collective restaurants — Samuel’s and Pearl & Mary — into Atlantic City’s Ocean Casino Resort has been called off. Through his rep, Schulson said that while he “appreciated the opportunity and the Ocean team,” Atlantic City “has become more of a haven for me and my family — a place where we escape, reconnect, and relax together. We know they have great things planned for through the rest of summer and we highly suggest a visit.” Ocean’s rep, Brian Brennan, said the casino is seeking a new partnership for what will be a $5 million investment. Last New Year’s Eve, Schulson closed his Izakaya at the Borgata after 15 years.

Essex Squeeze, a made-to-order healthy smoothie/juice/toast/bowl shop out of New York City, has entered Philly with its fifth location: It’s next to SET Philly on Liberties Walk (1030 N. Second St.), open daily. Cedric Hernandez — who founded Essex Squeeze with Charles De La Cruz, his friend of 35 years and a former manager at Katz’s Deli — said they were drawn here by the movie Rocky. “It might not be the coolest thing, but since I was a kid, I was obsessed with it,” said Hernandez, a fitness enthusiast who 20 years ago created the Founders of the Bridge The Gap Running Movement. A tour of Northern Liberties showed them “a lot of potential — you could see there’s a lot of progress happening here and I just thought there was a great opportunity to put a healthy option here.”

Crowds are finding the new Picnic in Kensington, a specialty-wine shop leading into a vast restaurant set beneath skylit 40-foot ceilings in a 19th-century industrial building that was part of the century-old Weisbrod & Hess Brewery.

Owners Defined Hospitality (Suraya, Kalaya, Condesa, Pizzeria Beddia) had Stokes Architecture and Katherine Lundberg of Briquette Studio bring an “outside” look indoors to this 225-seater. You walk past the drape and into the wine shop, which faces the open kitchen and oyster display, before reaching the dining room with its oversize walk-up bar. Walk-ins may have a wait. Coming up: mezzanine seating for 40 to 50 people, plus private dining.

Menu stars include rotisserie organic chickens (shown above) sold by the half and whole (pay close attention to the chicken jus, among the sauces); a daily selection of six East Coast oysters; grilled oysters in garlic butter; grilled shrimp with spicy beurre blanc; a shareable ficelle from Baker Street stuffed with raclette cheese and house-made sausage; and a grilled bikini sandwich of smoked salmon and Jarlsberg cheese that seemed to be priced out of kilter at $20 (it’s $60 with a side of Ostera caviar). See my Instagram post for more looks.

Reservations are on Resy, and half the seats are saved for walk-ins. Like many Philly restaurants, tables are more plentiful later, e.g. after 9 p.m.

Picnic, 2421 Martha St. Hours: 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 4-9 p.m. Sunday.

Roland Bui is a culinary connector through dinner parties and curated soirees. “If you look at a Venn diagram, you have a lot going on in Philly,” Bui told Earl Hopkins for a profile. “But what I see is a lot of people who should be talking to each other.”

Mulherin’s Pizza (1175 Ludlow St.) has started weekend brunch from 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. with breakfast pizzas, pastries, vegetables plates, pastas, and egg dishes.

Paffuto (1109 S. Eighth St.) has added dinner: Wednesday and Thursday from 5-9 p.m., at first. Menu will change and include dishes like skate Milanese with gribiche and lemon; poached mussels with brioche and tomato; summer squash; and black bass crudo. It’s a la carte, but for $75 they’ll course out a meal. Walks-in this week, Resy next.

Jaffa Bar will be the next Mike Solomonov-Steve Cook restaurant in Philadelphia. They describe it as a oyster bar whose cooking will be informed by Israeli ingredients. I give you a look inside.

Northeast Philly’s KleinLife Farmers Market (10100 Jamison Ave.) is now open Friday from noon-3 p.m. Proceeds from this season’s sales will go to support the Cook For A Friend program as part of the KleinLife Home Delivered Meals Program.

Pennsylvania has moved a step closer to wider sales of canned cocktails.

Angeloni’s Club Madrid is a hip, new bar in Atlantic City. Which of these design features does it have?

A) a chandelier from a Philly mob boss’ home

B) a Marantz stereo receiver

C) a connected pol’s car phone

D) all of the above

See if you know the answer.

Now that Han Dynasty has moved to 110 Chestnut St. in Old City, what will become of the old space up the block? — Gloria R.

The ink is barely dry on a deal with Buena Vista, a fast-growing Mexican restaurant group owned by Jorge and Jess Martinez, who plan to open at 123 Chestnut St. in early 2025. There are six locations now, mainly in the western suburbs; newest are in Queen Village and Fairmount.

📮 Have a question about food in Philly? E-mail your questions to me at mklein@inquirer.com for a chance to be featured in my newsletter.

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