Laser Wolf, the Israeli grill from Zahav’s Solomonov and Cook, opening in Kensington
Dinner in the former warehouse starts with a dozen salads and goes from there.
Israeli skewers and salads come to a Kensington corner this week as Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook roll out Laser Wolf, their shipudiya (or skewer house), opening Thursday, Feb. 6 at 1301 N. Howard St., the corner of Howard and Thompson Streets. It’s just a couple of blocks off Front Street.
Based on a test dinner in December, the Laser Wolf vibe from Boxwood Architects includes elements of flagship Zahav, but imagine a livelier, more colorful atmosphere amid bright globe lighting and string lights. It’s inspired by the open-air Machane Yehuda Market in Jerusalem. Tables are covered with oilcloths, making it all highly informal.
Andrew Henshaw’s menu lays it all out. Dinner starts with a sampler of a dozen vegetable-based salads such as dill and lentil tabbouleh and kale baba ghanouj, along with hot pita and hummus-tehina. Skewers from the charcoal grill follow. Among them are lamb merguez, chicken shishlik in guava marinade, and beef kebabs.
There’s an option of dishes for two such as whole branzino Palestinian stuffed with ginger, dill seed, and Aleppo, and a dry-aged ribeye. Dessert, a soft-serve ice cream sundae, is included.
Cool pricing strategy: If you don’t want grilled meats, you can order the salatim spread and dessert for a flat $18. The grilled proteins, which also include the salads, are mostly in the $30s and $40s.
The 12-seat bar, tucked into the rear near the grill, specializes in citrus-forward cocktails such as the Salty Lion with gin, arak, grapefruit, mint, and salt, and nonalcoholic passion fruit cooler with passion fruit, lime, fresh orange juice and cilantro.
The 90-seat restaurant, which will also serve on the sidewalk in warmer weather, is named after Lazar Wolf, the butcher in Fiddler on the Roof.
Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.