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This East Kensington pierogi spot just made another NYT best list

Little Walter’s in Kensington is on the New York Times’ list of “The 26 Best Dishes We Ate Across the U.S. in 2024” with its Pierogi z Dynia.

The pierogi ruskie at Little Walter’s in Philadelphia on Wednesday, Sept. 4, 2024.
The pierogi ruskie at Little Walter’s in Philadelphia on Wednesday, Sept. 4, 2024.Read moreMonica Herndon / Staff Photographer

Little Walter’s, the East Kensington bar-restaurant known for its modern take on Polish cuisine, has added another accolade to its name. The restaurant’s Pierogi z Dynia — a seasonal dumpling filled with squash, lacinato kale, and horseradish sauce — was featured in the New York Times’ “The 26 Best Dishes We Ate Across the U.S. in 2024.”

This marks the second time the restaurant has been recognized by the Times. Earlier this year, Little Walter’s was named one of the 50 best restaurants in the country, cementing its reputation as a standout on both the local and national dining scene.

In her praise for the dish, NYT writer Nikita Richardson noted how chef Michael Brenfleck “takes pierogi to new and delicious heights,” commending the dish for its blend of seasonal flavors and comforting appeal.

A heartfelt take on Polish cuisine

Little Walter’s opened in June as chef Michael Brenfleck’s tribute to his Polish heritage and his grandfather Walter Bubick. The restaurant pairs tradition with innovation, offering a seasonal rotating menu with dishes like house-made kielbasa, rye-crusted chicken cutlets, and pierogi.

Brenfleck, a 15-year veteran of the Philadelphia restaurant scene, has made pierogi the heart of his menu. While the ruskie pierogi — stuffed with potato and farmer’s cheese — nods to classic flavors, seasonal options like the Pierogi z Dynia showcase his creative edge.

When The Inquirer’s restaurant critic Craig LaBan reviewed Little Walter’s earlier this year, he lauded it as “one of Philly’s best new restaurants of any sort,” highlighting Brenfleck’s ability to reimagine Polish flavors while staying true to their roots.

A culinary comeback

The success of Little Walter’s reflects a broader resurgence of Polish cuisine in Philadelphia. While Port Richmond remains home to traditional Polish eateries, spots like Little Walter’s and Mom-Mom’s Kitchen are redefining what Polish food can be.

The recognition from the New York Times validates the team’s dedication to craft and creativity. In an Instagram post celebrating the honor, the restaurant wrote: “This accolade means the world to us, and we couldn’t be prouder to share this beloved dish with you all.”

For Philadelphia diners, the glow of Little Walter’s neon pierogi on the restaurant’s window is a bright reminder that some of the country’s best food can be found right in Kensington.