Beer gardens and other signs of spring | Let’s Eat
We know Philly’s best cheesesteak and what’s on the menu at Citizens Bank Park.
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That spring warmth means outdoor dining, and we’ll tell you what’s coming. Also this week: We found the best cheesesteak, offer ideas for Easter meals, tell you what’s on the menu for Phillies fans, and clue you in on two new spots in Fishtown.
⬇️ Read on for a quiz and restaurant news.
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In the spring, our fancy lightly turns to thoughts of gathering with friends over food and drinks outdoors for the next few months. Here are our first signs of spring:
We tie this week’s reopening of John’s Water Ice into an early-season look at beer gardens and other warm-weather options. The Garden at Cherry Street Pier on the Delaware comes back this weekend, followed next week by more openings, including the traveling Parks on Tap beer garden in Fairmount and the massive Liberty Point on Penn’s Landing.
Two scenic happy-hour spots are on tap, too, as colleague Jenn Ladd tells us: Triple Bottom Cherry Blossom Beer Garden in West Fairmount Park (premiering Saturday) and South Philly’s popular Bok Bar (next Thursday).
We put 16 Philly cheesesteak shops in one bracket and asked you to choose a champion. More than 12,300 votes later, the answer is clear: Dalessandro’s in Roxborough won, with nearly 23% of the vote. In the longtime Pat’s vs. Geno’s rivalry, meanwhile, a clear winner also emerged.
Looking beyond Cheez Whiz, colleague Hira Qureshi shows you eight international variations of cheesesteaks, from Ethiopian berbere to Indian masala spices, that bring on the flavor.
Muslim fish hoagies — that is, chopped fish, melted American cheese, and sometimes raisins — are a sandwich that’s far more than just food, as contributor Max Johnson Dugan tells us: It’s a story of Black and Muslim resilience.
The rest of the world may associate cheesesteaks with Philadelphia, but in Philly, they’re all about memories, milestones, and traditions. Colleague Stephanie Farr recounts six juicy and cheesy tales that illustrate the pull and power of cheesesteaks to those who know and love them.
The 2023 food lineup at Citizens Bank Park rolls out Thursday at the Phillies’ home opener. The headliners: Uncle Charlie’s Steaks, selling made-to-order cheesesteaks under the imprimatur of former Phillies manager Charlie Manuel; a stand from Greens & Grains, a Jersey Shore-based plant-based eatery; chicken tenders from Federal Donuts; and three more locations of Manco & Manco’s Pizza. Now all the Phillies have to do is win.
Need ideas for Easter brunch or dinner? Hira Qureshi offers 14 destinations. Find out where you can feast on such dishes as black truffle crepes with oxtail ragout or gochujang Brussels sprouts, to name but two specials.
FDR Park’s Southeast Asian Market, the food-centric weekend tradition that features pop-up vendors selling fresh-pressed sugarcane juice, lemongrass-basted chicken wings, skewers of Cambodian sausage, stir-fried noodles, produce, and other treats from savory to sweet, is back. Jenn Ladd explains what’s there and how it came to be.
Passover at Rachel Sherman’s house always has a twist, like the time they translated all the Hebrew into Klingon for one seder. Now, she’s created the matzo ball martini, and man-oh-Manischewitz, you can make it, too.
Restaurant report
Dock Street, one of Philly’s oldest breweries, opened its taproom and cocktail bar yesterday under the El in Fishtown, across from Middle Child Clubhouse. It’s a much smaller companion to the South Philly location, and no brewing happens here. The Certo family offers eight beers on tap, plus tap wines, and its a showcase for founder Rosemarie Certo’s Vicio Mezcal. The tiny galley kitchen puts out a snacky menu including honey almond grilled cheese on sourdough, Caprese on pita, dips with pita, and a fruit and cheese plate.
Dock Street Fishtown, 1229 N. Front St. 4-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 4 p.m.-midnight Friday, noon-midnight Saturday, and noon-10 p.m. Sunday (closed Easter).
The Washington Ave. location will be open Easter Sunday.
Manatawny Still Works of Pottstown comes to Fishtown with a tasting room tucked away behind a garage door on tiny Lee Street, the alley off Front Street that’s home to Pizzeria Beddia and Hiroki. Industrial-look digs include a coppertop bar and high-tops. Menu features cocktails, pours, and local beers, wines, and ciders. MSW has partnered with the neighboring ReAnimator Coffee on a small batch of coffee whiskey using the roaster’s Ethiopian blend.
Manatawny Still Works, 1321 N. Lee St. Hours: 5-10 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday, 2-11 p.m. Saturday, 2-8 p.m. Sunday.
Also new this week: Laurel returns to 1617 E. Passyunk Ave. in South Philly (now operating à la carte as it has subsumed In the Valley next door) and Cafe Le Jardin debuts in Audubon (a more casual all-day cafe at 34 W. Merchant St. from the team at Collingswood’s June BYOB).
Briefly noted
United by Blue, the eco-friendly outdoor-merchandiser with a cafe, has abruptly closed its two Philly stores.
Masa Cooperativa, the worker-owned collective, is now selling its masa dough to the public out of the People’s Kitchen, 1149 S. Ninth St. Also, chefs Valerie Erwin of the former Geechee Girl and April McGreger are running a Good Friday fish-fry fundraiser for the People’s Kitchen. Order today by midnight for pickup. It’s cornmeal-crusted fried fish filet or fried zucchini, plus sides. Info is here.
Chef Eli Kulp’s Delicious City Supper Club, which mixes food and conversation, will bring in chefs Joey Baldino (Palizzi Social Club, Zeppoli) and Dominic Piperno (Hearthside) to collab on Sunday supper on April 23. It will be an intimate (30-seat affair) at the Brewerytown location of Primal Supply with seatings at 2 p.m. and 5 p.m.; a portion of proceeds will go to a local nonprofit fighting hunger. Chef’s counter seating is $150 and family-style seating is $125, plus 20% gratuity. Tickets here.
Stargazy, the East London-inspired pie and mash shop on East Passyunk, is hosting a surprise one-day-only collaboration tomorrow with Chef Kiki Aranita of Poi Dog, a now-shuttered Hawaiian snack shop that lives on in Aranita’s sauce line. Yes, they will be serving what Craig LaBan called “the best chicken nuggets ever.” Info on their Instagram.
❓Pop quiz❓
What’s the latest this year at John’s Water Ice?
A) prices are up 50 cents a cup
B) there’s a new flavor, kumquat peach
C) they’ve added cheesesteaks to the menu
D) online ordering
Find out if you know the answer.
Ask Mike anything
If the owner is also your server, it is OK to tip? —@katie_d_ocnj
I expect to tip someone providing a personal service. I tip John Colello, my barber, and he owns the shop. I stopped at South Philly Barbacoa last week, and owner Cristina Martinez served me. When I reached out with cash to pay and tip, she gestured to the bucket by the front: “Dáselo a mis trabajadores.”
What’s the one thing you refuse to eat in a restaurant? —@pineapplepam66
If you’ve seen my clothes lately, absolutely nothing.
📮 Have a question about food or dining in Philly? E-mail me at mklein@inquirer.com
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