At Sally, across from Fitler Square, wine and pizzas make a natural pair

Sally is a new pizzeria, small plates, and natural-wine bottle shop at 23rd and Spruce Streets (the former Mama Palma’s). It’s in its opening guise, selling a limited menu out of a window on 23rd Street, until indoor dining resumes.

The owners are Cary Borish and Mike and Lena Parsell, whose A Frame Constructs is behind numerous projects across town, including the original Pizzeria Beddia (now Pizza Shackamaxon), Martha, Philly Style Bagels, Good Spoon, Zig Zag, and Lunar Inn and its Tiny’s Bottle Shop. They’re going for a neighborhood vibe.

Sally is named after Sally Stein, Borish’s grandmother and the mother of restaurateurs Sheryl Borish (Marathon Grill) and the late Neil Stein (Striped Bass, et al.).

Running the culinary side are Rob Marzinsky (ex-Pub & Kitchen, Diving Horse, and Fitler Dining Room) and pizzaiola Anna D’Isidoro, the daughter of a cook in Lancaster and a self-described restaurant lifer with kitchen time at Luca and Wyebrook Farm and front-of-house experience at Kensington Quarters and Bloomsday.

D. Stubblefield, a former manager at Bloomsday and Counter Culture Coffee, oversees the wines. There’s a decent wine selection, with most bottles priced in the $30s, and a few beers and ciders.

The menu is based on 12-inch wood-fired, naturally leavened sourdough) pizzas built with house-made and/or locally sourced ingredients and baked in Mama Palma’s old brick oven. Among the varieties: soppressata (with Salumeria Biellese soppressata, Birch Run Hills Farm “Fat Cat” cheese, tomato sauce, mozzarella, and pepper jelly); potato (with béchamel, mozzarella, garlic oil, chives, and local aged cheese); sausage & fennel (with Marzinsky’s fennel-and-herb sausage, roasted fennel, tomato sauce, and mozzarella); and a version of the South Philly pizzazz (with American cheese, sliced tomatoes, mozzarella, banana peppers, and oregano). They’re $14 to $18.

The menu includes chicken meatballs and two salads.

Everything is pickup only.

Hours are 5 to 9 p.m. Thursday to Saturday.