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The chicken liver toast at a.kitchen in Center City on Wednesday, Aug. 2, 2023.
The chicken liver toast at a.kitchen in Center City on Wednesday, Aug. 2, 2023.Read moreAllie Ippolito / Staff Photographer / Allie Ippolito / Staff Photograp
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a.kitchen

Center CityModern American, Gastropub$$$

More than a decade in, a.kitchen remains one of the best restaurants in the city where you can always find a seat, and the most dynamic of Ellen Yin’s High Street Hospitality Group. The French-leaning cooking is both forward-thinking and approachable — always seasonal, as in dishes like soft shell crab with an heirloom tomato and cucumber salad; often surprising, with its house charcuterie program; and unfailingly reliable, with mainstays like the a.burger, one of the city’s greatest. Its nationally recognized wine program, with hundreds of labels and a progressive bent (i.e., natural, offbeat, and local), is another Philly best. Better even than a table is the bar (not nearby a.bar, though it is also excellent), staffed by 11-year veteran Paul Pavelka, who charms regulars and newcomers alike on a nightly basis.

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The Inquirer aims to represent the geographic, cultural, and culinary diversity of the region in its coverage. Inquirer staffers and contributors do not accept free or comped meals — all meals are paid for by the Inquirer. All dining recommendations are made solely by the Inquirer editorial staffers and contributors based on their reporting and expertise, without input from advertisers or outside interests.