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General Manager Zachary Bourne prepares the Beef Wellington for two tableside at Jansen in Philadelphia, Pa. on Tuesday, Aug. 8, 2023.
General Manager Zachary Bourne prepares the Beef Wellington for two tableside at Jansen in Philadelphia, Pa. on Tuesday, Aug. 8, 2023.Read moreMonica Herndon / Staff Photographer / Monica Herndon / Staff Photograp
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Jansen

Mount AiryModern American$$$-$$$$

It’s hard to imagine a better setting for Northwest Philadelphia’s best restaurant than a 324-year-old home clad in Wissahickon schist inside and out, with an herb garden hedging the brick patio out back. Chef-owner David Jansen’s menu is ever-changing, but you can count on top-notch cooking and elegantly plated dishes: Think a savory bonbon composed of tuna rolled in thin-sliced avocado and topped with paprika-spiced tempura crunch and needle-thin red pepper threads, or grilled branzino draped over a butter-poached lobster-asparagus salad with a sweet corn purée. Silken sauces — the French-leaning sort you’d expect from a student of Jean-Marie Lacroix — are one of Jansen’s hallmarks, as are the desserts. There’s the chocolate love cake (complete with a ganache silhouette of Robert Indiana’s sculpture), but pastry chef Patrick Conroy’s seasonal “chouxffin” — a craquelin-topped cream puff that in summer was swimming in a sweet-tart strawberry glaze — is equally irresistible.  

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The Inquirer aims to represent the geographic, cultural, and culinary diversity of the region in its coverage. Inquirer staffers and contributors do not accept free or comped meals — all meals are paid for by the Inquirer. All dining recommendations are made solely by the Inquirer editorial staffers and contributors based on their reporting and expertise, without input from advertisers or outside interests.