Philly dermatologists’ best tips for treating dry skin in winter

Deep into winter, many of us are dealing with dry, chapped, itchy skin. We spend more time indoors, often blasted with dry heat. When outside, our uncovered skin feels the cold, blustery wind’s assault.

Think of a brick and mortar system where the bricks are normal skin cells and the mortar is made of the oils that hold the skin together. The loss of moisture can break that system down.

“People scratch those areas because they become uncomfortable, and that can lead to infection,” said Erum Ilyas, dermatologist with Schweiger Dermatology and chair of dermatology at Drexel University. “Your skin is a functioning organ that needs moisture for protection.”

But is it better to go with a lotion, cream, or ointment, and is there a difference? Are the terms “gentle,” “fragrance-free,” or “sensitive skin” meaningful?

Here’s what to know about keeping your skin moisturized through the rest of the winter.

Ointments tend to be thicker, contain less water, and provide the strongest barrier for the skin. They keep the skin from losing water and drying out.

Lotions contain more water and create a thinner, less effective barrier for the skin.

Creams fall between lotions and ointments.

While ointments are most protective, the type of moisturizer you choose comes down to personal preference. Some people don’t like putting on a thick ointment that may seep through their clothing.

“The quintessential ointment is 100% petroleum jelly,” said Bruce Brod, clinical professor of dermatology and director of the contact dermatitis clinic at the University of Pennsylvania Perelman School of Medicine. “It contains no preservatives or fragrances that could potentially irritate the skin or cause allergies.”

Yet, petroleum jelly, which doesn’t easily absorb into the skin, may feel too greasy to wear all day. It’s best reserved for the driest areas of the skin, and can be applied to the hands, feet, elbows, and knees at night, Ilyas said.

People with darker skin often prefer products such as cocoa butter or shea butter, which are easily absorbed into the skin and do not leave a white residue, said Ilyas.

One common cause of overly dry skin in the winter is over-bathing and showering, and especially with hot water. Heat softens needed skin oils and water washes them away.

“Take shorter and less hot showers,” said Brod. He recommends no more than five or 10 minutes. “Skipping a day can be helpful, but is not always practical.”

He also recommends using soap-free cleansers, which won’t remove the skin’s natural oils. Use them daily in the areas where you sweat, such as your armpits and groin area, but don’t feel compelled to use the cleanser all over your body every day.

Some people are genetically prone to drier skin than others. As we age, our skin produces less moisture and oil, so older people may be prone to drier skin.

You don’t, Brod said. The face produces more natural oil than the rest of the body, so a heavier cream may feel too oily. He recommends products with hyaluronic acid or shea butter, which may not feel as thick.

“The caveat would be for teenage skin, the point in your life when we’re worried about clogging your pores,” said Ilyas. Body moisturizers are not usually formulated with the face in mind.

Look for the label “not comedogenic,” which usually means the product has been tested to ensure it doesn’t clog pores, she said.

For lips, which are especially prone to winter dryness and irritation, you can use the same creams or ointments that you use on the rest of your body. Brod cautions his patients to avoid lip balms with menthol or camphor which can irritate the lips.

Avoid licking your lips, and, if you want a specific product for your lips, look for ingredients in lip balms that contain petrolatum, dimethicone, and ceramides, he said.

There is no standard for what these labels mean so it’s hard to rely on them. Even products labeled “fragrance-free” can still have fragrance-type ingredients in them.

Patients with drier sensitive skin should avoid products with lots of fragrances and botanicals, such as tree, lavender, and sandalwood oils that may irritate skin, said Brod.

Modern home heating tends to dry the air and worsen dry skin conditions. Keep the room temperature between 65 and 70 degrees. Put on a sweater before cranking up the thermostat.

Adding a humidifier can help if your home is especially dry in winter. Aim for a humidity level between 30% and 60%.

Outdoors, protect your skin from the cold wind by wearing a scarf to protect your face and gloves on your hands.

“I also recommend that patients wear a moisturizer with sunscreen because even driving in the car on a sunny winter day, you’re still getting exposure to ultraviolet light,” said Brod.