El Centro de Oro neighborhood guide: What to see, eat and do

In the Fairhill neighborhood, along Fifth Street and the corners of Lehigh, Somerset, and Cambria, you will find a yellow serpentine path directing you through El Centro de Oro, the center of Philadelphia’s Latino community.

Also known as El Bloque de Oro, the Golden Block, the media has painted this neighborhood as “exotic” for decades. But in a city where 15.1% of the population identifies as Latino, this corridor is not foreign or unusual, but rather “the heart of Philadelphia,” says Reinaldo Meléndez, owner of Centro Musical. “And just like the human body, without the heart, the body stops.”

Once known for its booming Latino businesses and commerce, the neighborhood has seen many changes fueled by economic downturns, the opioid epidemic, and the COVID-19 pandemic. But over 50 years, El Bloque de Oro has attracted Philadelphians with parades like Fiesta del Barrio and the stories you will find on every corner.

“Lots of stores closed, we lost beloved community business, but this is still the best neighborhood in the city,” says resident 75-year-old María Torres.

In a span of 30 minutes you can walk around this corridor and enjoy art commissioned by Taller Puertorriqueño, listen to live Latino music at Casa Musical, play dominos with community elders at the park, find a natural remedy for your stomachache at Botanica la Milagrosa, eat some quesitos at Delicias Bakery, and have a blast with stylist Virginia Villanueva while updating your look.

» READ MORE: Where to find a taste of Mexico, Central and South America, and the Caribbean in Philly

Along the 47 bus route, behind the 5Fifth and Lehigh stop, sits the Aquí comienza el Bloque de Oro mural. For María Torres — who has been living here since 1990 — the golden charms and the expression “Do you need money? We have it here” evoke the story behind the block’s name. “There used to be many stores where people came to pawn their valuables [made out of gold] out of need,” says Torres.

Puerto Rican artist Danny Torres (no relation) likes María’s explanation but says the name’s origin has nothing to do with pawn shops. In 2011, the former owner of the Gold Buyers of Philadelphia commissioned Torres to paint the piece. Since the mural is on the wall of the cash-for-gold business, the idea was to welcome people to the block and showcase the precious metal. The phrase wasn’t included in the original art, but the flags became a staple to remind passersby of the Latin influence in the area. In María’s case, it serves as a reminder that “what makes it the Golden Block is the good people we have.”

Around the corner from the mural, you will find Centro Musical, a Latino-owned music store serving the community since 1959. If you are ever in need of Latin music CDs, instruments, or domino tables, this is the place to go.

As salsa plays in the background, owner Reinaldo Meléndez welcomes customers and visitors. On one visit, “Lápiz De Carmín” by singer Tommy Olivencia plays overhead. Decorating the walls are maracas and Puerto Rican flags. To the left, guitars, congas, bombos, and güiras are lined up on a small platform for those who wish to play.

Meléndez bought the store in 2014 from the Gonzales family, who owned it for three generations. But, despite the administration change, Centro Musical has managed to keep its spot in the heart of the community.

Neighbor Genoveva Torres attributes that to Meléndez’s philosophy: “Customers are just friends you haven’t met yet.” In her 18 years going to the store, “the people, traditions and that we can just go inside and play music together” is what makes it her favorite place on the block.

Besides keeping the music in the neighborhood, the charm of the store rests on the help it has been able to provide to the community. Since its creation, the store inadvertently became a place where Philly Latinos call in with questions — ranging from where to get recycling bins to how to apply for a passport — and the previous owner helped them connect with local resources. It’s a labor Meléndez has continued. “At this point, we might as well be an information center,” he said with a chuckle.

📍464 W. Lehigh Ave., 📞 215-425-7050, 🌐centro-musical.poi.place, 🕑 Monday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., and Sunday 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.

Just steps from Centro Musical, Fairhill Square Park offers jungle gyms, games, and depending on the day, live music and bouncy houses. But if there is one thing that’s a permanent part of the landscape, it is the domino players that set up their tables on the left corner of the park.

“El Domino” is more than a generational strategy game for Puerto Rican people. It’s a way to build community relationships and a space to talk about what’s happening in the neighborhood.

As over 10 people rally to enjoy a game, concerns about city life are raised. “Someone tell the mayor we need bathrooms in this park!” says 55-year-old Tomas Molón.

“Have you seen the trash collection problem?” replies Miguel Bonet. “Once you put [politicians] in office, they forget about the working people.”

For them, the park provides a much needed space to socialize. “Anyone is welcome to come play,” says Molón. “As long as you wait your turn.”

📍2601 North Lawrence St.

If there is one place that can stimulate all your senses at once, it is Botánica la Milagrosa, even as scents of rompe saraguey, guava, and citrus leaves fill the room. No matter where you look, something will catch your eye.

Look up for a contrasting view of native and Christian deities shoulder to shoulder. Oils, perfumes, and balsams meant to heal are to the right. Candles with Catholic saints, flowers, prayers, and wishes for love and money, are located toward the back. And you can’t miss the great variety of crystals — chalcedony, amethyst, jasper, and more — dry herbs, Yoruba dolls, and Catrina figurines.

“Sometimes people associate [Santeria] with witchcraft, but it’s not that at all,” says Francis, the owner, who asked to not provide a last name, citing spiritual reasons. “It’s the way of saints, and it’s my way to keep my Yoruba ancestors religious beliefs alive.”

For Marcelina Rosario, La Milagrosa feels like a safe haven where she can find healing herbs for any pain and ache “of the body and soul.” After being a customer for over a decade, Rosario has built a friendship with Francis. “I suffered so much when she almost shut down,” said Rosario.

Personal reasons forced Francis to move from El Bloqué de Oro to New Jersey. But the reaction of the community before potentially shutting down changed her mind about closing. “I couldn’t do it, every neighborhood needs to have a healing place like this,” she explains. Now, she and her husband drive 30 minutes daily to operate the store.

📍2826 N. Fifth St., 📞 267-3129-905, 🕑 Tuesday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

The neighborhood’s favorite Puerto Rican pastries are baked by a Mexican chef at a Brazilian-owned bakery.

If you take a walk at 5 a.m., along Fifth and Cambria, you might catch Marcos Toso coming from Bensalem to open his store. In the back, Adrian Zamora is preparing quesito, pan sobao, pastelillos, sandwiches, bizcochos, flanes, pastelillo de guayaba, tornillos, and pan de agua. Soon enough, people like Cristian Cruz, whose abuela sent him to pick up some bread, will start lining up.

“She loves this bread, it reminds her of the ones on [Puerto Rico],” says Cruz, which both Toso and Zamora find meaningful.

“We were closed for four months [due to the pandemic], now we are surviving,” Toso explains. But he is not backing down and already plans to modernize the bakery facility to keep serving the neighbors. Because as Zamora puts it, “without the bakery, people would lose part of their roots.”

📍2861 N. Fifth St., 📞 215-427-9599, 🕑 Monday to Saturday from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.. Sunday from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.

As if written by Lin-Manuel Miranda himself, the scene at Virgen Villanueva’s salon is full of laughs and conversations over the sound of hair dryers. “Vengo para que me hagan mi pelo y me pongan bonita,” says 54-year-old regular Nilda López. Although she comes to “get pretty,” she stays for the conversation.

“Here you can cry, and laugh, we talk about everything,” said López with a chuckle. “For Latin people, salons are very important. We work as we talk, and we listen to everyone’s problems. It’s like therapy,” adds Villanueva.

For the last 30 years, Virgen’s Beauty Salon has become a safe haven for Latinx women from all over the state, with clients coming from Norristown and even Pottstown for the affordable haircuts and the sense of community. “If you want a fabulous day, just come on in. We can all pick some music and sometimes we throw my little cat birthday parties,” says Villanueva as everyone remembers the last fiesta.

📍2928 N. Fifth St., 📞 215-494-6092

Since 1974, the cultural heart of the neighborhood — as the community calls it — has become a hub for arts, culture, human rights, and social advocacy programs.

Community member Emanuel Andújar grew up just two blocks away from the nonprofit’s original location on Huntingdon Street. “I used to take classes here, back in the ‘90s,” says Andajúr. “It really helped me embrace my culture. That’s why as soon as my kids were old enough I brought them here to take art classes.” His children were among the over 300 kids the nonprofit teaches through youth programs annually — including after school activities and summer programs.

Today, Taller is Pennsylvania’s largest Latino arts organization. Don’t miss the chance to visit the Lorenzo Homar Gallery, the book collection at The Eugenio María de Hostos Archives, and the bilingual book and gift shop Julia de Burgos.

📍2600 N. Fifth St., 📞 215-4263-311, 🌐tallerpr.org, 🕑 Tuesday to Thursday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Friday from 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., and Monday between 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.