At newly reopened Sang Kee, the adage is still true: Philadelphians love to eat Chinese food on Christmas

The spirit of the winter holidays was alive and well at Chinatown’s Sang Kee Peking Duck House on Christmas afternoon.

Amid steaming bowls of congee, cracks of crispy duck skin, and whiffs of beef chow fun, a tableau of Christmas in a major city lay bare, the antithesis of Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks, and a reminder that Dec. 25 is what you make of it.

Some diners described heavy hearts — the death of a loved one cast a fog on the day or travel to family was out of the question — while others said the holiday held little meaning to them and was simply some a nice day off. Some ate alone; others corralled their large parties in round corner tables. They wore matching Christmas pajamas, their Sunday best, and athleisure — their attire as varied as their ages and backgrounds.

Diners like Daniel Garman, 35, came from as far as Harrisburg. Dressed in his best holiday garb, which included a hat with elf ears, Garman said most of his Christmas celebrations take place before the holiday because his family is so large and spread out. Garman said that in the lead-up to Christmas he tries to do one daily “random act of kindness” for others in a pay-it-forward fashion. His big meditative moment comes on Christmas Day.

“A lot of people say, ‘Oh, I’m so sorry you have to spend Christmas by yourself,’” said Garman. “But I spend the whole month, the whole year, with other people. This is a nice time to just reflect, you know, take a step back. Also, duck is my favorite food.”

Why make the two-hour drive to Philly? Garman came upon Sang Kee during a work trip years ago at the behest of a Chinese colleague who vouched for the food’s authenticity. Garman said he’s tried other “fancier” spots for his Christmas tradition, and none has quite compared to Sang Kee.

Garman lamented the potential disruption of his two-year tradition when he heard the city had shut down the restaurant earlier this month. Its electrical panel was threatened by a mysterious stream of steam pouring into its basement. A week later, the restaurant reopened just in time for the holiday.

“It’s my Christmas miracle,” joked Garman with a spread of rice, crispy duck, and other accoutrements before him.

He left chocolate treats for the staff before scoping out the rest of Chinatown for sesame balls and other sweets.

» READ MORE: Chinatown’s Sang Kee Peking Duck House has reopened after city-imposed shutdown

Across the room, newly minted Philly residents Kara Lewis, 35, and Nina Shearer, 37, were figuring out what Christmas in their newly adopted city looks like. So far, it’s duck and wonton soup, congregating with newfound friends later in the day, and turning their attention to a bespoke and intricate miniature greenhouse.

“We’re thinking, like, should that be our new Christmas tradition, getting a really complex craft?” Shearer said.

Lewis delighted in trying a new food spot with her wife, as well as people-watching.

“Pushing through the discomfort of trying to build and move new traditions is uncomfortable, but potentially you can learn to love and cherish these new memories as much as you did in childhood,” she said. “I’m addicted to new, I don’t want to experience the same thing.”

» READ MORE: Sang Kee Peking Duck House was featured in The Inquirer's "The 76"

Still, sometimes a nice lunch is just that.

Sixteen-year-old Caleb Jeon and his family made the roughly 40-minute drive from Fort Washington for a change of pace — they usually make crab at home for Christmas.

Abby Holmes, 37, walked a few blocks to support the restaurant she’d heard about in the news. She’s more intent on supporting Chinatown businesses amid fears a proposed Sixers arena could change the character of the neighborhood.

Scott Rosenthal, 66, made the trek from South Philly to meet up with two friends for lunch. He’s Jewish, though he doesn’t really celebrate Hanukkah either, so Wednesday was simply a day to eat with friends when most places are closed. For the last two or three years, Sang Kee has been their spot because it’s a crowd favorite.

Another man joked about Sang Kee being part of his “Jew Christmas.” He had Chinese food for lunch followed by a movie, which he was rushing to.

The hodgepodge of patrons warmed Sang Kee owner Henry Chow’s heart. He described an outpouring of support after news of the restaurant shutdown spread. Even his parents’ friends in China were sharing well wishes. Business has still not quite returned to normal levels since the reopening, he said, but the Sang Kee staff felt “truly happy” that the adage about eating Chinese food on Christmas is still true.

“It’s the holiday season,” Chow said, “and people are always looking for Chinese food.”