Nicola Carlino, co-owner of Carlino’s, a gourmet Italian market in Ardmore, dies at 88

Nicola Carlino, 88, of Newtown Square, who with his wife parlayed an early fascination with cooking and pasta-making into Carlino’s, a gourmet market in Ardmore, died Thursday, Feb. 20, of congestive heart failure at Fair Acres Geriatric Center in Media.

A native of Casoli, Italy, Mr. Carlino had a passion for cooking, gardening, and winemaking as a youth. At age 24, he married Angela Di Medio. They tended the olive groves and grape vineyards, and cared for the livestock on his family’s farm in the Abruzzo region.

He served for a brief time in the Italian army before immigrating with his family to the United States in 1968 and settling in Ardmore.

His first job was as a bus driver and groundskeeper at Mitchell Prep, a boys’ school in Haverford. He worked there for 13 years and was admired by the staff for his ability to line football fields. “He was meticulous and precise,” his family said in a statement.

He was supportive of Mitchell’s sports teams and served as the assistant coach for many of them.

In the early 1980s, Mitchell closed. By that time, Mr. Carlino’s wife had established herself as a well-known cook, selling cookies she had baked at her home. Eventually, she began selling homemade pasta and sauces as well.

In 1983, with only a dream and a small amount of capital, the couple decided to open a pasta shop with the help of their two sons. The venture in a former barbershop on East County Line Road was called Carlino’s Homemade Pasta. Later, the store was enlarged and its name was changed to Carlino’s Market.

In the early days, Mr. Carlino could be seen through the front windows of the brick building running the pasta-making machine and tending the sauce kettles. He spoke in a broken English and was much loved by customers who flocked to the store to buy his fresh pasta and sauces.

Over the years, the business grew to encompass a pizza and bread bakery, a pastry shop, fresh produce, homemade sausage, imported cheeses, prepared dishes, and gourmet food gift baskets.

He used only natural ingredients and the Old World techniques that he and his wife had learned on the farm in Italy. Mr. Carlino was known for the lush gardens he cultivated next to the Ardmore market. The tomatoes, cucumbers, and fresh herbs he picked went right into his gourmet dishes, the family said.

Mr. Carlino supplemented his garden’s output with produce as well as ricotta cheese and eggs from local farms. In 2007, the family opened a second Carlino’s market in West Chester. It is run by his son Pasquale “Pat” Carlino and daughter-in-law, Laura.

As the business became successful, the core mission of producing gourmet food for a discerning public never changed, the family said. “He just loved feeding people,” his daughter-in-law said.

When not at work, Mr. Carlino enjoyed playing bocce, bowling, and following Philadelphia sports teams. He established the Associazione Regionale Abruzzese of the Delaware Valley. The nonprofit seeks to preserve the Abruzzese heritage in the United States.

Mr. Carlino was family oriented and had a warm smile. He enjoyed spending time with his grandchildren and great-grandchildren. He was very proud of his Italian heritage and the success of Carlino’s.

His wife died in 2007, and a son, Carmen, died in 1990. In addition to his son Pasquale, he is survived by four grandchildren; three great-grandchildren; a sister; and nieces and nephews.

A viewing from 9 to 10:45 a.m. Thursday, Feb. 27, will be followed by an 11 a.m. Funeral Mass at St. John Neumann Roman Catholic Church, 380 Highland Lane, Bryn Mawr. Burial is in Cavalry Cemetery, West Conshohocken.

Donations may be made to the Narberth Food Bank, 201 Sabine Ave., Narberth, Pa. 19072, or the West Chester Food Cupboard, 431 S. Bolmar St., West Chester, Pa. 19382.