Fishtown neighborhood guide: What to eat, drink, and do

On a sunny Friday afternoon in Fishtown, young professionals hop off the El at Girard Station and head to Johnny Brenda’s for happy hour. They pass families carrying bags from Riverwards Produce, couples popping into Persimmon Coffee, and folks with fresh haircuts from Franklin’s Barber Shop.

Walking around Fishtown, you might notice the fish address signs hanging on homes, a nod to the neighborhood’s history as a hub for shad fishing. Despite its historical roots, it’s a neighborhood of change and flux.

“[Fishtown is] a traditional rowhouse neighborhood with a few different commercial corridors and streets,” said Jon Geeting, president of Fishtown Neighbors Association. “We’re a riverfront neighborhood with an influx of new and longtime residents, so it’s an interesting cultural mix.”

Long-term residents are now “meeting the new generation of people moving in — I don’t want to say gentrifying, but that is what it is,” Mitch McCabe said. The on-and-off Fishtown resident of 12 years (who works at Johnny Brenda’s) moved away for four years and came back to find things were very different — his first place at Front Street and Girard Avenue became a sushi spot.

But standing on the steps of his current home on Frankford Avenue, McCabe admits watching the neighborhood evolve is exciting, as new businesses pop up.

“People are very loyal to what has existed, but they are also into the mix of trendy and new,” said Sawyer Beckley, co-owner of Persimmon Coffee, which opened last summer on Girard.

From vintage shops to dive bars, the neighborhood — roughly bounded by North Front Street to the west, Delaware River to the east, Girard Avenue to the south, and York Street to the north — is teeming with buzzy restaurants, fun bars, and interesting activities to help you pass the time. Here’s what locals recommend for a day in Fishtown.

If you’re looking for margaritas with a side of nachos, make your way over to Loco Pez. Choose from burritos to quesadillas for lunch or enchiladas to tacos for dinner.

Residents Kait Beebe and Eva Sheppard recommend the burger with double smash-style patties with a Monterey jack and cheddar blend, nestled in a Martin’s potato roll slathered with house-made sauce, and topped with spicy pickles, lettuce, and jalapeños. While seasoned waffle fries come on the side, you could stuff them inside for some extra bite.

📍 2401 E. Norris St., 📞 267-886-8061, 🌐 locopez.com, 🕒 Monday to Sunday 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

If you’re searching for brunch in a homey atmosphere, head to the upstairs seating at Front Street Cafe. The bi-level restaurant has plenty of seating options from the wood bar to spacious outdoor seating. But on the second floor, the antique furniture and dark woods offer a cozy dining experience to sip on pear-lychee martinis and enjoy bananas foster hotcakes with your brunch crew.

📍 1253 N. Front St., 🌐 frontstreetcafe.net, 🕒 Monday 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., Sunday, Tuesday to Thursday 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.

Sitting on Girard Avenue, Sulimay’s makes a good argument for diners to make a comeback in Philly’s dining scene. It’s one of the best spots for breakfast sandwiches — egg, meat, and cheese on a Philly muffin for $7 — plus the McDonald’s Big Mac dupe at this classic, cash-only diner is even said to heal broken hearts.

📍 632 E. Girard Ave., 📞 215-423-1773, 🌐 breakfastatsulimays.com, 🕒 Monday to Sunday 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon’s dazzling Thai restaurant might be a newcomer to the neighborhood but Inquirer food critic Craig LaBan says it is “becoming Philadelphia’s most impactful restaurant since Zahav.” Dine on shaw muang (flower-shaped dumplings) or blue glass noodles swimming in green curry, with a view of the open kitchen. Reservations book fast.

📍 4 West Palmer St., 🌐 kalayaphilly.com, 📞 215-545-2535, 🕒 Monday to Thursday 5 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m., Sunday 4 to 9 p.m.

With national chains Jeni’s and Van Leeuwen just a short walk away, Kai Talim argues this neighboring ice cream shop is the place to indulge in local flavor. “For our money, it’s Weckerly’s,” said Talim, co-owner of Persimmon Coffee. The colorful shop defines its assortment of flavors from Tahitian vanilla to citrus sorbet by its expert use of ingredients.

📍 9 W. Girard Ave., 📞 215-423-2000, 🌐 weckerlys.com, 🕒 Tuesday to Thursday 3 to 9 p.m., Friday 3 to 10 p.m., Saturday 1 to 10 p.m., Sunday 1 to 9 p.m.

Step into this Irish bar on Girard and you’ll find hearty Italian dishes inside. That’s right, the cash-only shamrock bar is known for its branzino, stuffed gnocchi, ravioli, and other Italian classics. The story goes that chef Francesco Bellastelli wandered into the bar in 2015 looking to eat, but found there was no food served. After a discussion, owner Greg Walton asked Bellastelli to rent out the kitchen — the rest is history. The bar fills up fast so be prepared to wait for a table.

📍 202 E. Girard Ave., 📞 215-425-1847, 🌐 murphsbarfishtown.com, 🕒 Monday, Wednesday, Thursday 1 p.m. to sellout, Friday to Sunday 12:30 p.m. to sellout

On Front Street and Cecil B. Moore Avenue, cool kids flock to this bar, where you’ll find sage-infused cocktails, Chinese lagers, live music, DJs spinning vinyl, and the occasional bingo night. Paul Kimport and William Reed — the minds behind Johnny Brenda’s — are behind this venue, too. Prices start at $7 for cocktails, $5 for wines, and $4 for draft beers at happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m. on weekdays.

📍 1624 N. Front St., 🌐 theintlbar.com, 🕒 Sunday to Thursday 4 p.m. to midnight, Friday and Saturday 4 p.m. to 2 a.m.

The brainchild of Nicholas Ducos and Francesca Galarus, this urban winery, bar, and bottle shop celebrates local, native American wines galore: Take the rosé blend of seyval blanc, vidal blanc, and chancellor from Erie’s wine region, or Chambourcin from vineyards in South Jersey, plus many more. Enjoy these wines during a weekend visit to the garden, or during one of many pop-ups hosted in the bar in collab with Philly chefs. “The wine is great — it’s so cozy in there,” said Kiley Lotz, manager of Made and Maker boutique on Frankford Avenue. “It’s nice to go in somewhere and sit and have drink in a chill vibe.”

📍2146 E. Susquehanna Ave., 🌐 muralcitycellars.com, 🕒 Monday, Thursday to Friday 4 to 10 p.m., Saturday 2 to 10 p.m., Sunday 2 to 8 p.m.

In this spacious location of the coffee roasting company, you can pop in for a to-go cup of drip or stay to dip your chocolate croissant in a vanilla latte — there’s plenty of seating for lounging.

If you’re looking to work, this cafe might not be the spot — there’s no Wi-Fi. But the lack of internet connection doesn’t stop some from typing away on laptops using their personal hotspots.

📍 1335 Frankford Ave., 📞 267 479 1600, 🌐 lacolombe.com, 🕒 Monday to Sunday 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Vintage fans, this one’s for you. Walking down Frankford Avenue, art deco dining chairs, intricate china pieces, and handcrafted tables on the sidewalk lead you to the double doors of Jinxed. Inside, find an emporium of antique, vintage items from sunglasses to couches scattered throughout. While some items can be as low as $8, expect to pay higher prices for these curated pieces. Pro tip: Follow their Instagram for featured items — and be quick to call, they sell fast.

📍 1331 Frankford Ave., 📞 215-800-1369, 🌐 instagram.com/jinxedstore, 🕒 Monday to Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Owned by Paul Kimport and William Reed, Johnny Brenda’s has played a big part in the city’s evolving music scene, showcasing acts from local alt-pop artists to pioneering bands of the Belfast Punk Movement. And we can’t forget memorable nights with stars from Janelle Monáe to Justin Bieber, who shot pool and got carded. Order a pitcher of Levante pilsner for a group or an espresso martini for one and munch on fried tofu or a smoked short rib sandwich as you enjoy the show. RSVP online.

📍 1201 Frankford Ave., 📞 215-739-9684, 🌐 johnnybrendas.com, 🕒 Monday to Sunday 11 to 2 a.m. (The kitchen is open from 11 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. daily.)

Walk the park on the western bank of the Delaware River; you’ll learn about its history and the statue of Pennsylvania’s founder that sits there. Under an elm tree in the park, William Penn signed his treaty of peace with the Lenni-Lenape in 1682. The city established Penn Treaty Park, also known historically as Shackamaxon, in 1893 to commemorate its history, but some argue the park should be renamed to include Chief Tamanend, the tribe leader who signed the treaty with Penn.

📍 1301 N. Beach St.

Learn Brazilian jujitsu from expert instructors eager to teach group classes, private lessons, and teacher training courses. Brothers Ricardo and Phil Migliarese guide students in the arts of Brazilian jujitsu, Muay Thai kickboxing, mixed martial arts, and yoga. Want to join the 300-plus students in their studios? Fill out the online form for prices and class times, plus a special discount (up to 30% off) and a seven day guest pass. Kids’ martial arts and women’s self-defense classes are also available.

📍 1314 Frankford Ave., 📞 215-988-9347, 🌐 balancestudios.net, 🕒 Monday to Friday till 6 p.m., Saturday 11 a.m. for beginner class (gi); Monday to Friday noon, 7 p.m., Saturday for mixed level (Monday and Wednesday gi, Tuesday and Thursday no-gi); Monday, Wednesday, Friday noon for advanced class (Monday gi, Wednesday and Friday no-gi); Sunday 11 a.m. to 1:30 for open mat.

Founded in 2000, the Fishtown arts organization was created in response to city violence, offering support for young people and their communities through multidisciplinary arts expression and education. ArtWell works with schools, libraries, faith-based organizations, social-service providers, and other community organizations to offer youth and adult programs focusing on poetry, art, team building, development, and more. Fill out the booking request form online to request a youth program or workshop.

📍 100 W. Oxford St., Suite E-1200, 📞 215-386-7705, 🌐 theartwell.org, 🕒 Monday to Friday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

“They’re Fishtown staples — everyone goes there,” said Talim, who often chats with barber shop folks making a pit stop at Persimmon Coffee. Anthony “Sailor Tony” Reilly offers a chill atmosphere at a small shop on Girard — ‘90s music plays while barbers perform haircuts, hot towel shaves, and beard trims as guests sip on drinks from the fridge. Book appointments online. All genders welcome.

📍 225 East Girard Ave., 🌐 franklinsbarbershop.com, 🕒 Monday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.