Fresh fruit

In the depths of winter the same old citrus fruits start to seem redundant. You've had them all before: the dutiful, reliable lemons, the predictably acidic grapefruit, the conventionally grown oranges with their Tropicana scent. Tangelos, tangerines, clementines - old news. When even the blood oranges and Meyer lemons aren't exciting you, it's time to get out of your citrus rut and try some of the more exotic fruits available this season.

This month, when citrus reaches its peak, there are many interesting juicy options to choose from. Nestled among the usual Florida crop in the market you might find pyramids of Satsuma mandarins crowned with leaves, tiny kumquats, glossy yellow-green pomelos or lumpy Ugli fruits. These citrus alternatives offer a healthy dose of Vitamin C and antioxidants - not to mention distinctly different flavors, colors and shapes that can liven up the kitchen.

Citrus doesn't get much more homely than the Ugli (pronounced HOO-glee) fruit, which is alternatively known by its more PR-friendly name, Uniq fruit.

Grown exclusively in Jamaica, this relative of the tangelo has a mottled, puffy skin with uneven coloring. Even a fresh one will look as if it's seen better days - which is one reason American consumers have been slower to adopt the Ugli fruit into their citrus canon.

"A lot of customers are still unfamiliar with the Ugli fruit," says Erik Brown, produce and floral coordinator for the Mid-Atlantic region of Whole Foods stores. "They really are ugly, but they're very sweet, juicy and delicious for eating on their own."

A more comely cousin is the enormous yellow-green pomelo, a native of Southeast Asia that is most closely connected to the grapefruit, though it is usually milder and sweeter-tasting than its cousin.

Both the Ugli fruit and the pomelo can be sliced in half and eaten with a spoon. Sections can be tossed in a salad with crisp radicchio or endive, roasted with fish, or even stewed with pork. A common dish in Southeast Asia is a yam som-o, a pomelo and chicken salad with fish sauce and roasted peanuts.

Another citrus item showing up more frequently in markets is the Satsuma mandarin, a small, oblate orange usually available from December to April.

Satsumas are most familiar to Americans in their canned form, the syrupy mandarin orange segments that have traditionally crowned savory spinach salads and bowls of fluffy ambrosia. But at their freshest, Satsumas are even more appealing, yielding a vibrant, flavorful juice. Because their skins slip off easily and they have few or no seeds, they are exceedingly easy to work with.

At Morimoto, chef de cuisine Gerald Drummond is developing Satsuma recipes for a King crab salad and a glaze for roasted young chicken.

"It's also great for things like custard because it's sweet and mellow and has an extremely clean finish," he says.

Other sweet ideas for Satsuma include whipping the juice and zest into mousse or combining them with lemon and lime for a boldly flavored citrus bar, a twist on the classic lemon bar.

In Morimoto's kitchen, and across the restaurant world, the hottest citrus right now is the Japanese yuzu, a dimpled round yellow or green fruit with the tart zing of a lemon. Though yuzu season begins mid-November and lasts through March, whole yuzus are still largely unavailable in the U.S. Restaurants order them through specialty distributors or they use the fruit in juice or powdered form. Home chefs can find yuzu juice online at www.chefsresource.com.

One reason it can be difficult to find is that this acerbic darling doesn't come cheap. Pure yuzu juice costs about $12 for 3.5 ounces.

Drummond, who has been using it for about seven years, says: "Yuzu adds a distinctive flavor - sort of orange, lime, tangerine and grapefruit all rolled up into one." Drummond adds yuzu juice to salad dressing, seafood and creme fraiche. He is also preserving the fruit with black sesame seeds, sugar and salt for use later this season in a King crabcake.

Perhaps the most freakish of the exotic citrus pack is the Buddha's Hand citron, named for its long, spindly extensions. Using this fruit in the kitchen requires a certain degree of imagination - not to mention a deft touch with a microplane zester - because the citron has no flesh or juice to speak of. Instead, the rind can be candied and sprinkled in desserts or it can be added to spirits to infuse them with its lemon flavor.

Lacroix executive chef Matthew Levin employs the citron's rind in his squid noodle seviche, in which the zest provides a perfect accent for the seafood. "I use the Buddha's Hands because the flavor is that much more refined and exotic," he says. "It has floral undertones and a mild sweetness that play very well with raw squid, scallops or sweet shrimp." However, Levin warns that applying heat to the Buddha's Hand can produce bitter results.

Though it has the appearance of a bright yellow sea creature, the Buddha's Hand also offers one of the loveliest citrus perfumes around. Traditionally, Chinese families give this symbol of health and longevity as a New Year's gift for decorating the home.

At Whole Foods, Erik Brown says American customers frequently request the Buddha's Hand for centerpieces.

"At room temperature, the rind really gives off a wonderful scent. But as far as I can tell, it's still somewhat of a novelty."

Makes 4 to 6 servings

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1 cup vegetable oil

6 shallots, thinly sliced

1 pomelo

1 small whole cooked chicken breast

1 cup cooked shrimp

1 teaspoon chopped red chili

11/2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce

11/2 teaspoons sugar

Juice of 1 large lime

11/2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 small head red leaf lettuce

1/4 cup roasted peanuts, chopped

Julienned fresh red chili, for garnish

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1. Heat the vegetable oil medium hot. Fry the shallots slowly until browned and crisp, 5 to 10 minutes. Drain on paper towels.

2. Peel the pomelo and separate the segments. Remove the membranes and seeds. Gently flake the flesh apart into a bowl.

3. Shred the chicken. Add the chicken and shrimp to the pomelo.

4. In a small bowl, combine the chili, fish sauce, sugar, lime juice and cilantro. Toss the dressing with the pomelo-chicken mixture and serve over lettuce arranged on a serving platter.

5. As desired, top with chopped peanuts and 2 tablespoons of crisp fried shallot flakes. Garnish with red chili slivers.

Per serving (based on 6): 160 calories, 14 grams protein, 8 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams sugar, 8 grams fat, 59 milligrams cholesterol,

435 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.

Makes 6 servings

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For the squid:

1 pound very fresh squid tubes cut into 1/8-inch thick strips

1 gallon water, at a boil

2 quarts ice water

For the dressing:

Finely grated zest of 1/2 Buddha's Hand

1 shallot, minced

1 teaspoon white pickled ginger, finely julienned

1 small garlic clove, minced

Fresh juice of 1 lime

Fresh juice of 1 orange

1 Thai chili, thinly sliced, seeds removed

3 tablespoons ginger oil (or olive)

1 tablespoon crumbled bonito flakes (smoked dried tuna, found in Asian markets)

10 basil leaves, finely julienned

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1. Prepare the squid by cleaning it well, inside and out, under cold running water. Slice it into strips in a colander and pour the hot water over it, letting the squid curl slightly. Stop the cooking by plunging the squid into the ice water. Remove and drain the squid on paper towels.

2. Put all the dressing ingredients but basil in a stainless steel bowl, whisk until emulsified and add the squid. Serve at once, adding basil at the end to avoid browning.

Per serving: 142 calories, 12 grams protein, 5 grams carbohydrates,

1 gram sugar, 8 grams fat, 176 milligrams cholesterol, 35 milligrams sodium, trace dietary fiber.

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Makes 48 2-inch square bars

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For the crust:

3½ cups all-purpose flour

½ cup wheat germ

½ cup confectioners' sugar

½ teaspoon salt

1 pound (4 sticks) cold, unsalted

butter, cut into pieces

For the filling:

8 large eggs

4 cups granulated sugar

2/3 cup all-purpose flour

¾ cup freshly squeezed Satsuma juice

½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice

1 tablespoon finely grated Satsuma zest

½ tablespoon finely grated lemon zest

½ tablespoon finely grated lime zest

1 teaspoon salt

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1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, wheat germ, confectioners' sugar and salt together.

2. Using a pastry cutter, two knives, or your fingers, cut or crumble in the butter until the pieces are no larger than peas. Press the dough evenly into a 121/2-by-171/2-inch rimmed baking sheet. Bake until golden, 20 to 30 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar and flour. Add the juice, zest and salt. Whisk to combine, then pour the mixture over the cooled crust. Bake until the filling center is set, about 30 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

4. Use a mesh sieve to dust the confectioners' sugar on the tart. Cut the tart into 2-inch squares. The bars will keep fresh for 2 days stored in an airtight container at room temperature.

Martha Stewart's Baking Handbook

Per bar: 193 calories, 3 grams protein, 27 grams carbohydrates, 18 grams sugar, 9 grams fat, 56 milligrams cholesterol, 86 milligrams sodium,

0.6 gram dietary fiber.

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