Drink: The Z&T, Zahav's take on gin and tonic

When summer's rays start beaming, it's finally gin and tonic season for me.

Because I'm averse to overly complicated mixology at home, I appreciate the elegant simplicity of that refreshing classic combo of gin, tonic, and lime.

But after my introduction to the "Z&T" at Zahav, my whistle is primed for the kind of creative menu-inspired riffs that a skilled bar can bring - even if that means skipping the usual tonic and lime (not to mention the "G").

The "Z," in a twist, does not stand for Zahav, but za'atar, the ubiquitous Israeli herb blend of savory, thyme, sumac, and sesame that dusts everything from the warm laffa bread to various grilled mezze with a distinctively dusky Middle Eastern aroma.

It infuses the Beefeater gin here, too, before it gets blended with Byrrh, a fruity French quinine aperitif (in lieu of tonic), grapefruit, and a splash of Dolin white vermouth to harmonize the brew.

The effect is vividly herbal and evocative of Zahav-ness. Not only did it somehow still channel the old G&T's quenching talents, it magically primed our appetites for the Mediterranean flavors to come.

- Craig LaBan

The Z&T, $12, Zahav, 237 St. James Pl., 215-625-8800; zahavrestaurant.com