Cheese of the month: Doe Run's prized St. Malachi

I've long admired the Farm at Doe Run's cheeses as some of our region's best, from the creamy, bloomy rind oval called Hummingbird to the farm's take on Gouda, Seven Sisters.

But now the local dairy has hit it big on a national stage.

Doe Run's St. Malachi took second prize for best in show at the American Cheese Society's recent conference – out of nearly 1,900 cheeses from across North America. Most impressive is that alpine-style cheeses like this are often overshadowed by showier styles that ooze or stink.

St. Malachi, named for the 18th-century church that overlooks Doe Run's 700 picturesque acres in Chester County, is a study in subtle complexities.

It's a Gouda style at its root but veers sweet and buttery on the finish.

At about 10 months of age (20-plus for the "reserve"), it's definitely a hard cheese, but with enough moisture to still show a supple creaminess, sparked with protein crystals that snap from grass-fed flavor – toasty, buttery, with hints of hazelnuts.

No wonder it's a cheese course favorite at places like Laurel.

- Craig LaBan
St. Malachi by the Farm at Doe Run, $25-$29 a pound, at Di Bruno Bros., Talula's Daily, the Fair Food Farmstand, Swarthmore Co-op, and Weaver's Way.