Bills Khakis of Reading now a slimmer, hipper must-have

As men's clothing sales grow, the fit of their trousers keeps on shrinking.

And so it's perfect timing for the release of Bills Khakis' latest brand.

The 24-year-old Reading-based menswear company is rolling out its newest in basic britches Monday, called Tea Label. Its new website, www.billskhakis.com, rolls out a week later.

Tea Label pants feature lower rises and slimmer fits in pale - you might even say pastel - hues. They are a hipper offshoot of the upscale, made-in-America brand founded by former advertising executive Bill Thomas.

"The washed-out look gives an over-dyed, muted effect," said Thomas. The name comes from British soldiers who, during the 1840s, dyed their uniform pants with tea for camouflage purposes.

In addition to Tea Label's fitted five-pocket flat-front, the new collection also features collared, button-down shirts in smart gingham and madras plaids, as well as polo shirts.

"This is definitely our most fashion-forward line," he added.

In the case of Bills Khakis, fashion-forward isn't a cliche. It is to be noted.

Since 1990, Thomas has made his mark in men's clothing - notice I didn't say fashion - by giving men exactly what they wanted. We're talking light khaki, dark khaki, navy, and sometimes brown twill slacks - year after year after year.

Thomas tinkered with the fit a few times, but for the most part Bills Khakis have remained consistent whether you buy them in Bloomingdale's or American-heritage stores like Paoli-based Trove General Store. To date, more than 600 stores carry Bills Khakis, and the company sells more than 250,000 pairs of the pants, shorts and wovens manufactured in Los Angeles, Philadelphia, and parts of Virginia. The company's annual sales are well over $15 million.

However, over the last two to three years, it's been hard for Thomas to ignore the shift in menswear. It started with color, as young men rocked skinny jeans in shades of mustards, olives, and reds ranging from fiery oranges to muted clays.

This spring, thanks to Thom Browne's exaggerated tailored silhouettes and Rick Owens' sporty layers, the market is tipping toward the nontraditional. Recent issues of GQ and Details magazines show urban professionals carrying "man purses" while donning shrunken suits in cobalt blues and windowpane checks.

Sunday's New York Times T magazine featured soft-faced male models in high-waisted trousers paired with tunic-style suit jackets.

At last week's Academy Awards, Matthew McConaughey's white Dolce & Gabbana suit and Pharrell Williams' Lanvin walking shorts garnered just as much red-carpet critique as the women's gowns.

Does that mean Bills Khakis' customers - the conservative, everyday dudes - are ready to wrap themselves in infinity scarves? Not yet. But as Bills Khakis tries to find its place in this craft-beer-of-khakis niche, speaking a softer fashion language will be key to its continued growth.

"It's important to be current and on target, but whatever way the breezes are blowing, we want to be pointed in one direction," said Thomas, 52. "We aren't going to get blown off the road because of what's happening on the runway."

In 1984, Thomas bought a vintage pair of World War II khakis from an Army surplus store in Ohio. He fell in love with them. He wore them constantly. And when they nearly disintegrated, as most men allow their clothes to, he couldn't replace them. He wanted the exact same pair, and there were none to be found.

"It was less about design and more about solving a basic consumer frustration," said Thomas, who claims his brand became as much about Americana as about the fashion.

Thomas launched Bills Khakis with a flat-front, which he started selling wholesale to specialty shops from the back of his Jeep. He quickly added pleats.

But by the mid-1990s, casual Friday style was every day of the week, due to Silicon Valley influence and golf-look popularity - good for a new business focused on a relaxed pant. Khakis quickly became the pant of that era, so despite lower-priced khakis like Dockers, which came on the market around the same time, Bills' Nantucket-worthy pressed khakis justified their $120-to-$165 price range.

They have since evolved to be the building block of everyman's wardrobe - which is pretty much what it started as. The point now is to make it fresh for younger customers who gravitate toward a snugger aesthetic. Think J. Crew fits.

"We are a touchstone of American values," Thomas said. "We want our customers to identify with Bills Khakis on every level."

Powder blue khakis, anyone?

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@ewellingtonphl