24 places to eat and drink around State College

My dear late mother-in-law had a memory like a vault. But who could blame her for the indelible images she carried with her for more than half a century from State College, where Barbara Trostler (then Klopp) was crowned 1951′s Miss Penn State during some of the most cherished days of her life?

So it was hardly surprising on her final revisit to campus in 2009 when Barbara could still find her old dorm room in McElwain Hall and, with students already gone for summer, walked right in.

“Wait a second...,” she said, looking around in genuine surprise, “they’ve moved the furniture!”

No matter how much college towns evolve, the highlights remain frozen in the minds of alums, who return for football games and celebratory weekends in hopes of revisiting the familiar places and flavors of their youth. Change is often neither easy nor welcome. And, at least until that visit, State College had obliged the desire for continuity with a steady allegiance to the old standbys we visited, like the Tavern (which recently underwent a dramatic renovation), the Corner Room, Ye Olde College Diner (since closed, though its famed “grilled stickies” live on through retail) and Penn State’s beloved Berkey Creamery for a fresh-churned scoop of coffee ice cream (definitely still worth a visit).

Since our son Arthur followed in his Nana’s footsteps to begin at Penn State in 2020, we’ve discovered State College has indeed evolved in the name of culinary progress — albeit at a reluctant pace.

“State College is a little behind the times,” concedes Dante Lucchesi, 40, whose family’s Happy Valley Restaurant Group has operated several restaurants (Champs, American Ale House, Central Reservation, Local Whiskey) since 1986. “What you see in Philadelphia might take 10 years for you to see [here].”

Nonetheless, the locavore movement has finally taken root as farm-to-table restaurants like Revival Kitchen, Pine Grove Hall, RE Farm Cafe, and Elk Creek Cafe that have sprouted on the outskirts of State College and surrounding agricultural towns. Craft beer producers, cideries, kombucha brewers, and good coffee shops have proliferated.

A construction boom of massive new apartment buildings near campus has pushed out some old favorites, like Zola Kitchen & Wine Bar, a development surge that has many concerned the downtown is supplanting the character of independent operators with chains like Five Guys, Raising Cane’s, Starbucks, and Chipotle. The counterbalance has been marked growth in immigrant-owned restaurants whose burgeoning diversity of flavors tracks with the rapid rise of Penn State as a leading destination for international students over the last decade — the most in Pennsylvania in 2021, at 9,304, or just over 11% of the resident student body, and second most in the Big Ten.

So, if pizza and diners were the staples of student diets past, these days you can munch on everything from Oaxacan tamales to Szechuan pork belly, Pakistani chicken charga and Korean kimchi and bulgogi over ... tater tots? It’s a comfort food bestseller at Asian fusion Bistrozine because, hey, no matter how much things change, State College will forever remain a student town.

We still have many places to explore while Arthur is at Penn State, including some notable upscale destinations that require reservations months in advance for busy weekends. We tend to be more spontaneous.

So here are the places we’ve come to enjoy over the last two years.

Liz and Quintin Wicks operate this superb tasting menu BYOB out of a restored home in Reedsville 25 minutes southeast of State College just six months a year, guided by the local growing season from May to October. This exceptional destination has been a local farm-to-table trailblazer, earning such a loyal clientele that it sold out every reservation for its 2022 season in one day. Quintin Wicks is one of the most talented chefs in Pennsylvania, channeling seasonal inspirations from farmers who now grow ingredients especially for them. Our late-summer menu ranged from sublime sweet corn soup with fresh huitlacoche crema to wood-fired cabbage, brick-cooked chicken with ripe tomato panzanella, and profiteroles tinted dark with burnt corn husks filled with sweet corn pastry cream. It was one of the most compelling meals I’ve ever had in Central Pennsylvania. Seating beneath the light-strung sycamore tree in their backyard is the wildcard that occasionally opens tables on fair-weather nights, so it’s always worth checking. But Reedsville has other draws now, too, from bustling Stonefly Cafe operated by Seven Mountains Wine Cellars, as well as an ice cream stand and coffee shop that recently opened across the street. Revival Kitchen, 64 S. Main St, Reedsville, 717-667-7932; revivalkitchen.com

Set into the grandly restored bones of a circa 1900 Odd Fellows building, Pine Grove Hall is owner Liz Grove’s cultural hub for live music, a nod to her former career as a rock musician and music industry executive. It’s also a showcase for excellent cocktails at a vaulted bar, and a local-minded kitchen worth the 10-minute drive outside State College. Chef Tory Glossner, a Revival alum, offers creative vibrant, produce-laden plates that pay vibrant tribute to area farms, from vividly sweet melon salad with shaved coppa and the kitchen’s own farmer cheese, to grilled culotte steak with Jimmy Nardello peppers and cherry tapenade, and the “Birdger” made from house-ground turkey and giblets topped with foie gras. It was tasty, even if I’m not convinced State College is ready for a $25 turkey burger. PGH has smartly introduced some more focused and affordable theme menus Wednesdays and Sundays. Bartender Sc’Eric Horner’s artfully crafted cocktails are worth the trip any night. Try the Dr. Hook’s Medicine Show, whose absinthe-misted, whiskey-spiked Dr Pepper hides a house-brandied cherry prize at the bottom. 101 E. Pine Grove Rd., Pine Grove Mills, 16868; (814) 954-5419; www.pinegrovehall.com

Hugo Romero first came to Penn State from Venezuela in 2000 to pursue his Ph.D. in physics and became fond of State College before returning home. So when the economic crisis worsened in Venezuela under then-president Hugo Chávez, Romero decided to return to Pennsylvania in 2015 with his wife, Adianez Martinez, a chef and musician. After starting at a local farmers market serving classic Venezuelan fare inspired by Martinez’s grandmother, Juana, they quickly transitioned into a small but festive brick-and-mortar space decorated with a vivid mural of a beach scene from near her coastal home in La Guaira. The food is just as transporting, from the pabellón Criollo platter of tender shredded beef with black beans, plantains and rice to an array of crisp corn arepa pockets filled with everything from smoky pork stew to chicken salad with avocados. Most of Juana’s is gluten-free (including one of its fryers), a rarity in State College. One notable exception: the crispy dough-wrapped tequeños stuffed with imported Venezuelan cheese will ruin you for mozzarella sticks forever. Juana’s, 29 S. Fraser St., 814-996-4906; juanascuisine.com

This cozy counter-service cafe was created by Bryant and Lynelle Martin with welcoming hospitality as a core principle, along with fresh ingredients and scratch cooking that is notable in the breakfast-lunch realm. You can taste that in the warm pretzels that are rolled and baked hourly. You also taste that in the updated diner fare of fresh omelets and weekly features like Burger Thursday. The patties are made to a special recipe with a bit of Bryant’s mother’s barbecue sauce mixed in, and are among the best I’ve tasted in town. I’m partial to the Jalelujah named for the fresh chilies in its Swiss cheese and mushroom topping, as well as a nod to the owners’ active role in a local church, whose members are staff.. Sowers Harvest Cafe, 421 E. Beaver Ave. G1B, 814-867-1007; sowersharvest.cafe

Johan Liu managed an Asian fusion restaurant in Manhattan until he visited a niece attending Penn State and decided to leave the hustle of New York for more laid-back State College. The Indonesian-born Liu taught himself to cook a menu of varied Asian cuisines, from Peking duck rolled inside flaky scallion pancakes to kimchi-stuffed dumplings, ramen, crisp pork katsu in curry, tender grilled beef ribs, and tater tots topped with kimchi, bulgogi and a fried egg for the ultimate college comfort dish. For dessert, students on swing seats dangling from the ceiling can spoon through fresh molten lava cake while sipping matcha tea drinks dolloped with whipped cream. Bistrozine, 409 E. Calder Way, 814-826-2492; bistrozine.com

If there’s one addition to the downtown dining scene I’ve been most excited about it is Lupita’s, the Oaxacan taqueria serving distinctive mole negro, plantain leaf-wrapped tamales, and hand-pressed tortillas cradling savory lamb barbacoa that I first encountered at its initial location inside the Uni-Mart gas station just south of town. The stuffed tlayudas are big enough to feed a tailgate, and the quesabirria tacos are excellent. The opening of a downtown for Lupita’s should be a celebration of the success of Emilio Lopez and his wife and chef, Maria Guadalupe “Lupita” Rojas, who built their restaurants after years of working on a dairy farm in Bellefonte. That storyline was interrupted by a U.S. Department of Labor investigation this summer into claims of wage theft and employee intimidation, among other allegations that Lupita’s lawyer Faith Lucchesi disputes as “a misunderstanding.” She says the couple is cooperating with the government and the federal lawsuit has already been dropped. Hopefully, that’s resolved soon so Lupita’s headlines can soon once again focus on its fantastic food. Lupita’s Authentic Mexican Food, Downtown location: 312 W. Beaver Ave., State College, 814-954-8749; Uni-Mart, 3180 W. College Ave., State College, 16801, 814-954-8768; on Facebook

State College has long had options from South Asia with the 25-year-old India Pavillion being my favorite. But Cafe Alina, which Asam and Afsheen Mirza opened in early 2020, is the only place cooking Pakistani specialties and one of the few sit-down destinations serving halal cuisine. I’d return any day to this crisp modern space with outdoor patio seating for another taste of Alina’s chicken charga, a spice-encrusted bird that’s first steamed then fried to a fragrant crisp, or the vibrant karahi chicken or the only mutton curry near campus, its tender meat infused with fenugreek leaves and 11 other spices. Cafe Alina’s rice bowls are a particularly good value, topped with everything from chana to lentil dal or lamb kebabs for $13 or less. Even better is the daily student special with a hearty vegetable or meat curry over rice for $6 to $7. Cafe Alina, 421 E. Calder Way, 814-954-5816; on Instagram and Cake.net.

There’s likely no better Chinese kitchen in State College than Little Szechuan, where we recently devoured a lip-numbing takeout feast to celebrate move-in day with dumplings in chili oil, cumin beef, eggplant in garlic sauce, and orange beef. In the past I’ve also savored the dandan noodles, diced chicken with chilies, and double-cooked pork belly. Little Szechuan is another favorite, though, that’s recently run into legal problems, with Pennsylvania state charges in August of failure to pay sales tax. The owner did not return calls for comment, but the restaurant remains open. Little Szechuan, 228 W. College Ave., 814-308-9906; etapthru.com

We have a soft spot for the Original Waffle Shop West location (1610 W. College Ave.) since this branch of the local breakfast chain founded by John Dimakopoulos was the first place we ate comfortably indoors after nearly two years of the pandemic. It was a celebratory ham and cheese omelet, for sure! And the two Original Waffle Shops outside of downtown remain a reliable choice for breakfast. But the Dimakopoulos restaurant we return to most frequently is The Greek. This casual but handsomely fresco-ceilinged destination just north of downtown offers fresh versions of the classic taverna fare of Dimakopoulos’ homeland, from juicy kebabs, lamb chops and gyro platters to zucchini fritters, dips and flaky baklava. The Greek, 102 Clinton Ave., 814-235-1816; thegreekrestaurant.net

You’re not seeing double with the multiple Tadashi signs along College Avenue. There are two locations for this Japanese restaurant in close proximity, but each has a different focus. The location at 206 W. College Avenue across from Old Main features a primarily cooked food menu with ramen bowls of richly-steeped pork broth, rice bowls topped with katsu, bao, and takoyaki octo pancake balls. The location at the corner of College and Atherton showcases a wide array of colorful sushi rolls and sashimi. The service is consistently brisk and brusque, but there’s little competition for Japanese food in State College. Tadashi Japanese Cuisine, 206 W. College Ave., 814-862-9111; (for sushi) 100 S. Atherton St., 814-308-9900; tadashijapanese.com.

This stylish restaurant and bar just outside downtown has been one of our go-to spots for special occasion meals when we need outdoor seating. I’m usually skeptical of Southern-themed menus in the North (and rightfully so), but I’ve enjoyed Gigi’s takes on shrimp and grits, pork chops with tasso gravy, fried green tomatoes, and pimento cheese dip. Gigi’s Southern Table, 2080 Cato Ave., 814-861-3463; gigisdining.com

There are several craft breweries around State College, but Otto’s, now celebrating its 20th anniversary, was one of the first. The sprawling brewpub with indoor and outdoor seating, which is also connected to Barrel 21 Distillery, is a great place to watch the game while sipping a solid collection of classic styles (Spruce Creek lager, Mt. Nittany pale ale, Green Drake IPA, plus bigger brews on the beer engine). Keep it simple with this menu of traditional pub favorites and gravitate toward the burgers made with the grass-fed Hereford beef from nearby A.V. Farms. Otto’s Pub & Brewery, 2235 N. Atherton St., 814-867-6886; ottos-barrel.com

State College’s newest brewery is notable, in part, because it doesn’t serve food (except for popcorn). It’s all about hanging out in the handsome little bi-level downtown space with its mezzanine and picnic table patio, and the fresh, well-crafted beers from Brazilian brewer Paulo Nami that tap the cloudy New England-style IPA trend. Look for biweekly canned specials that sell out within hours, as well as vibrant kombuchas from the brewery’s sister project, Moody Culture. Antifragile Brewery, 324 E. Calder Way, State College, 814-954-5864; antifragilebrew.com

Caffeine and Other Food Essentials

This standout craft roaster specializes in well-rounded blends (Singlespeed and Trailside were favorites) and more lightly roasted single-varietals with vivid character from Ethiopia and Colombia. The cafe just east of downtown is a good destination for a light breakfast of savory toasts, house biscuits, and scones. Rothrock Coffee, 1736 S. Atherton St., 814-510-9119; rothrockcoffee.com

Longtime fans of Saint’s Cafe (including me) fretted when the beloved coffee shop which sold Intelligentsia beans closed after two decades. Luckily one of Philly’s best roasters, Elixr, has stepped in to open a branch. The $5 Chemex pour-overs may not suit some student budgets, but it’s been bustling nonetheless, because there’s no denying the quality of Elixr’s beans. (Elixr pro tip: every bag of beans comes with a free drink.) Elixr Coffee Roasters, 123 W. Beaver Ave., elixrcoffee.com

They sell cheese at The Cheese Shoppe, of course, with 30 classic and local varieties. But the coffees roasted by founder Bill Clarke on the little Probat that sits in view just below street level in this iconic 45-year-old storefront remain the draw. The space is a 1970s time capsule, and the coffee beans are retro, too, with darker roast profiles that will remind you what coffee tasted like before the New Wave boom. W.C. Clarke’s The Cheese Shoppe, 234 E. Calder Way, 814-234-4244; the-cheese-shoppe.myshopify.com

This Pennsylvania artisan has become known nationally for its fruity chutneys (a cheeseboard’s best friend), shrubs (tart mixers inspired by a colonial-era recipe), baking mixes, and dark chocolate sauces infused with fruit. But we never leave State College for home without first stopping at the actual farm itself, just seven miles east of downtown. We stock up on condiments — the rhubarb and tomato chutneys are favorites. The fresh produce is also exceptional, and Tait’s fridge holds an outstanding collection of local cheeses, like those from nearby Goot Essa. Tait Farm, 179 Tait Rd., Centre Hall, 814-466-3411; taitfarmfoods.com

This sixth generation farm founded just outside State College in 1825 is a fall paradise with some of the best cider and apple sauce I’ve ever tasted. The recent opening of a branch downtown is welcome for the campus-bound crowd. Aside from all the local produce, this location has a cafe selling affordable sandwiches and salads made from local ingredients, including fresh cider doughnuts. Downtown: 252 E. Calder Way, State College, 16801; Farm: 2355 Halfmoon Valley Rd., Port Matilda, 814-692-5211; wayfruitfarm.com