Cheesesteak, pastrami, and PB&J dumplings? They’re coming to Brooklyn Dumpling Shop, opening in Philly.
The "Automat" franchises are designed primarily for takeout and delivery. There is no direct contact between customers and workers, who can be seen behind glass.
Dumplings to go — hot and fast and late-night.
Philadelphia will be getting locations of Brooklyn Dumpling Shop, starting in late 2022. The first will be at 308 South St., followed in early 2023 at 3400 Lancaster Ave. in University City.
The South Street location may operate 24/7 on weekends — as does the flagship location in Manhattan — while the one on Drexel University’s campus will close at 2 a.m.
Five to seven more Brooklyn Dumpling Shops are in the immediate plans for the Philadelphia region, say local franchisees Nick Sordoni, Stephen Hudacek, and Alex Flack. They envision at least 30 locations in Southeastern Pennsylvania and Camden County, N.J., over the next eight years.
They are designed primarily for takeout and delivery. Customers use a scanner or delivery app to place orders, and get a QR code. When the order is ready, they scan the QR code and a specific window opens to serve the dumplings. The windows, which line a wall, are heated or chilled, depending on the dish.
QR codes and lockers prevent delivery drivers from grabbing the wrong order.
It’s a 2.0 version of the long-ago Horn & Hardart Automat, an early version of what we know now as fast food. (The Automat is the subject of a popular documentary.)
Stratis Morfogen, a founder of Brooklyn Chop House, created the franchise as a pandemic pivot, as the face-to-face contact between customers and workers is minimal. The prep cooks can be seen working behind a glass wall.
Despite the name, there are none in Brooklyn. The first location opened in 2021 in Manhattan, followed by Hoboken, N.J., and Storrs, Conn.
What’s an Automat?
In 1888, Joe Horn and Frank Hardart opened their first lunchroom on 13th Street near Chestnut in Philadelphia. Fourteen years later, the Horn & Hardart location at 818 Chestnut St. was outfitted with an Automat, a European-engineered tech marvel that turned H&H into a “waiterless restaurant.”
» READ MORE: Entrepreneurs have tried to revive Horn & Hardart
The Automat allowed customers to skip the cafeteria line and head to a wall of clear glass windows, behind which stood dozens of food — a hunk of pie or a sandwich or side dish (the creamed spinach, Harvard beets, baked beans, and tapioca pudding were favorites). Pop a nickel into the slot and the door would open.
H&H, which had a reported 157 locations in Philadelphia and New York, serving 500,000 patrons a day, closed the last store, in Manhattan, in 1991.
A 35-foot piece of the original is on display in the Smithsonian National Museum of American History.
What’s on the Brooklyn Dumpling Shop menu?
Dumpling flavors include pastrami, Reuben, Philly cheesesteak, lamb gyro with tzatziki, cheeseburger, chicken Parm, Buffalo ranch chicken, and peanut butter and jelly, whose jelly sauce is an arresting red.
There are egg-filled breakfast versions (called Breakfast Cro’sumplings), as well as seafood and plant-based dumplings.
Well?
Based on a taste test at the New York location, the dumplings came out hot in their paper takeout bowls and were tasty enough. The Philly cheesesteak tasted like every cheesesteak spring roll you’ve ever tried. Chicken Parm tastesslightly better than a Hot Pocket. The PBJ, which I picked up from a cold locker, was teeth-chatteringly sweet.
The New York location sells bags of frosé and other wines which won’t be offered in Philadelphia.