Over-the-top burgers and hot dogs star at Burgertime NJ — but not a french fry is in sight

Chef Dane DeMarco made a name specializing in terrific, over-the-top burgers and hot dogs at Philadelphia bars such as American Sardine Bar, South Philly Tap Room, and Second District before joining the group that owns Hawthornes, Sonnys Cocktail Bar, and Wine Dive.

Now 34, they’ve opened their own restaurant called Burgertime NJ with help from sister Dannette Monoyios . It’s not a bar scene — it’s just an old-fashioned counter setup replacing a short-lived taqueria at 123 Merchant St. in downtown Audubon, N.J., near their home. (DeMarco is still helping out at the Philadelphia restaurants.)

Besides burgers and dogs — and you have not lived till you’ve tried the Sabrett hot dog topped with creamy peanut butter and crunchy Fritos corn chips on a Liscio’s roll — DeMarco is selling funnel cake, fried pickles, grilled cheese sandwiches, floats made with soft-serve ice cream, and their all-time favorite fountain soda, RC Cola.

No fries. Everybody else does them. DeMarco likes tots, in all their crunchiness, and adds creative toppings, such as a sunny-side-up egg and breakfast meats, and bacon, pizza cheese, jalapeños, and ranch dressing.

Just about everything on the menu can be made vegetarian, and most of the vegetarian items can be vegan. Many items also are gluten-free, and a second fryer is on the way.

The Down Under Burger is a tribute to Outback Steakhouse with blue cheese, bacon, onion petals, A1 sauce, and “blossom sauce.” The Francis Bean hot dog has baked beans, bacon, mustard, and diced onion. DeMarco, whose father is South Jersey banquet chef Benjamin “Benzo” DeMarco, started in the business at age 14 working the phones at Gaetano’s in Willingboro, working there for a dozen years. One night, Gaetano’s was short-staffed so DeMarco was drafted to work the line. They loved the pace.

At Burgertime, you order at the counter, which has seating for seven. DeMarco said people can be funny about giving their name for picking up food, so Burgertime hands over a plastic-encased baseball card. You can be “Mike Schmidt” for a few minutes until your name is called.

Hours are 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Audubon, just off the White Horse Pike, is brimming with food businesses, such as the new LesbiVeggies and Brown Dog Cafe, plus Red White & Brew Beer Co., Smoke BBQ, Angelo’s Pizza, Cousins Deli, and Desserts by Design.