Order the whole duck at Forsythia for a modern French splurge

Chef Christopher Kearse is always stretching his modern French skills at Forsythia, his pretty and funkadelic brasserie in Old City, which may be the only place on earth you can eat hay-roasted rabbit crepes with truffle honeyed hazelnuts to the tune of George Clinton’s Atomic Dog.

The most coveted object of desire at Forsythia these days is Kearse’s extraordinary tribute to duck.

”They’re literally flying out the door,” our server said, before catching himself in the unintended pun, taking our duck request just as two other tables were being served their royal birds. The enthusiasm may come as a small surprise considering the $120 price tag for this three-part feast for two. But duck is always a special occasion meal. And this particular rendition is a true destination duck.

The whole 5-pound bird is hung to dry-age, tenderizing and intensifying in flavor, for 10 days. The full breast is roasted to crisp perfection on the rib cage, then carved down into two crispy moons alongside pickled cherries, two confit duck legs, and crunchy fried wings paired with truffled cherry gastrique with fig aigre-doux. You’re going to want the fresh bittersweet crunch of that gorgeous salad dressed in duck fat-Champagne vinegar dressing to cut through all the richness. Those big croutons made from house focaccia? Fried in duck fat, of course.

These beauty birds are limited — just 12 to 18 a week — and many diners request them in advance on their Resy reservations (or email hello@forsythiaphilly.com). But you can’t lose here. Every dish is gorgeous in Kearse’s talented hands. The service is thoughtful. The pretty cocktails are always creative — like the Cyan-Siam with tequila, Cynar, and a hot pinch of curry.

Kearse also knows I’ll never miss a chance to taste his latest play with my all-time favorite cheese: Époisses. He’s been known to froth it with a siphon and whip it into a soufflé with foie gras. But personally, I can’t imagine it being better than on this particular night, simply scooped into a little bowl unadorned except for its own gloriously oozy, stinky essence, with a side of toast and pickled rhubarb. Paired with that whole duck feast, it made for one of my most memorable meals of the past month.

Whole duck for two, $120 at Forsythia, 233 Chestnut St., 215-644-9395; forsythiaphilly.com