We tried almost 40 bottles of locally available tequila and mezcal—here are the 16 best

I’m usually all about gifting whiskey come December. But I decided it was time for a change after a memorable reporting trip to Mexico this year following restaurateur and tequila producer David Suro on an epic agave spirits journey across Jalisco and Michoacán. Visiting with revered mezcaleros and tequila artisans was eye-opening and educational. It also reaffirmed my belief that agave spirits are the most complex, biodiverse, and terroir-driven spirits on the planet.

So grab your copitas, mis amigos! It’s time to take my annual holiday booze list south of the border.

With nearly 40 bottles to consider on the tasting table at my house recently, my jicara gourd cup was overflowing. The mere task of assembling these candidates was daunting. The agave spirits market has exploded with international interest but also become fraught with over-industrialization, celebrity label nonsense, and concerns about sustainability.

So I asked Suro, whose restaurant Tequilas is still under reconstruction from a February fire (a reopening is planned for spring), to help winnow them down. I focused on additive-free bottles made largely with traditional methods, all available in the Philadelphia area. Only a handful of tequilas made the final cut. (Suro’s own excellent Siembra Azul brand, which I recommend, was excluded.)

This final list of 16 recommendations is focused on mezcals and their counterparts, distillados de agave, which are essentially mezcals made outside Mexico’s officially designated areas of mezcal’s Denominación de Origin. Tequila is, in fact, one kind of mezcal, but its production methods are typically different and legally can be made from only one variety, Agave tequilana azul Weber, or “blue agave.”Mezcals can be produced from as many as 58 different kinds of agave — every batch is distinct, a reflection of terroir, craftsmanship, and local culture.

As a result, quality mezcals can be relatively more expensive, said Dan Suro, 27, David’s son, partner, and beverage manager at Tequilas, who helped lead our tasting.

“Mezcals were not meant for capitalism. They were were meant to be shared among communities,” he said. “Some batches are just 60 or 70 liters, and take over a month to make from plants that can be 20 years old and are under too much economic pressure right now (due to demand). Yeah, we should be paying $150 or more per bottle to support them.”

“There’s often a big difference,” Dan Suro says, “between premium-priced agave spirits and premium agave spirits.” We focused squarely on the latter, and this list showcases a range of prices. Some bottles are limited, by nature. But all are currently available either through Pennsylvania Fine Wine and Spirits (several by special order only), or in noted South Jersey retailers such as Benash Liquors in Cherry Hill, the region’s prime destination for coveted agave spirits, or Clayton Liquors in Gloucester County, whose growing collection can be sampled at the in-store “Tequila Temple” bar. Philadelphians, meanwhile, can preview many of these gems at agave-forward restaurants like El Mezcal Cantina, Cantina La Martina, La Llorona, Grace & Proper, Vernick Fish, Martha Bar, Condesa, Sor Ynez, and Superfolie. Of course, Tequilas will likely set the standard once again when it reopens in 2024.

Tequila Ocho Plata

The Camarena family’s newest distillery, Los Alambiques, opened this spring in the highlands of Jalisco, and is turning out gorgeous tequilas that feature vivid agave flavors because they’re made the traditional way — slow-cooked then cooled over days before they’re crusted, fermented in oyamel vats, then distilled twice in pot stills. The result is crystal clear but rich like oil on the palate, with briny green olive notes, minerality, bakery spice, and floral notes on a silky smooth finish. Tequila Ocho’s reposado is also outstanding. Tequila Ocho Plata, 80 proof, 750ml, $49.99, (PLCB Item #84714); $44.99 at Total Wine in Cherry Hill.

Cascahuín Plata 48 High-Proof Black Label

Tequilas’ co-owner Dan Suro considers Cascahuín the essential starting point when talking about the blanco category. Its deeply caramelized agave flavors from steam-powered ovens are vivid, with an earthy depth of roasted sweet potatoes on the nose framed by saline and sweetness. I tasted the entire range at Cascahuín’s distillery in February, and consider the standard 84-proof blanco a solid value ($46.99 at Clayton Liquors). The higher proof Plata 48 Black Label, however, dramatically intensifies all those flavors with a richer mouthfeel and more lasting, complex finish. Cascahuín Plata 48 High-Proof Black Label, 96 proof, 750ml, $80.89 (PLCB Item #636019); $79.99 at Benash Liquors.

Tequila Partida Blanco

Perhaps the earthiest of the blancos we tasted, this lowlands tequila smells like a wet conifer forest, bright fruits, and vanilla to balance minerality and green vegetable notes reminiscent of poblano peppers. Certified additive-free, and a crowd favorite. Tequila Partida blanco, $39.99, 80 proof, 750ml (PLCB item #10918). Also $39.99 at Clayton Liquors.

El Tesoro Reposado Single Barrel (Fine Wine & Good Spirits 2023 Edition)

I’ve admired all the El Tesoro tequilas I’ve sampled from Carlos Camarena’s legendary La Alteña distillery, including a beautiful blanco ($51.99) that tastes like buttery caramelized fruit (try it as a replacement for gin in a martini). But Camarena is one of the industry’s masters and pioneers of barrel aging tequila, in part because he allows the wood to enhance — but never obscure — natural agave flavors. The standard Reposado ($67.99) is fantastically well-rounded with floral fruitiness and a rich mouthfeel. But the straw gold single-barrel selected exclusively for the PLCB takes those flavors 20 feet deeper into the earth with added notes of peppermint, peanuts, celery, anise, and salted caramel adding more layers of flavor. El Tesoro Reposado Single Barrel (Fine Wine & Good Spirits 2023 Edition), 81.4 proof, 750 ml, $69.99 (PLCB item #84222).

El Tesoro Añejo Mundial Collection, Laphroaig Edition

I’ve lost interest in high-priced añejos that essentially aim to make tequilas taste like Cognac or whiskey. But this unusual (and divisive) special-edition of Tesoro’s Mundial series for the PLCB is a mash-up of two personal favorites: El Tesoro’s elegant añejo aged in Laphroaig Scotch barrels. The iconic Islay malt’s signature puff of smoke and iodine sea salt hits first, then fades into the tequila’s caramelized agave sweetness. Some tasting naysayers found the contrast harsh, but to me this is like a wild Scottish-Mexican wedding gone right. El Tesoro Añejo Mundial Collection, Laphroaig Edition, 80.4 proof, 750ml, $124.99, available online only at finewineandgoodspirits.com (PLCB #88980).

Rey Campero Mezcal Espadín

This accessible and well-made mezcal from the Southern Highlands of Oaxaca is one of the best quality values to consider when venturing beyond mass-market brands. Made from espadín agave, fermented in open-top wooden vats with wild yeasts and pot-stilled in copper, it’s bright and peppery with green tomatillo notes, a hint of salty bacon and a touch of vanilla to temper its smoky finish. Rey Campero Mezcal Espadín, 97.4 proof, 750ml, $49.19 by special order in Pa. (PLCB item #607138); $42.99 at Canal’s Discount Liquors in Mt. Ephraim.

Mezcal Derrumbes San Luis Potosí

Made from wild salmiana agave grown in the high altitude of the Central Mexican state of San Luis Potosí, this is one of the most distinctive mezcales you can find for under $40, “a green pepper bomb” says Dan Suro, who signaled the vivid taste of cut serrano and jalapeño peppers, minus the spice. That vivid vegetal zing is wrapped in a cheesy, citrusy lactic tang and a suprisingly smooth finish noticeably absent of smoke, due to the cooking method in above-ground ovens. Mezcal Derrumbes San Luis Potosí, 88.8 proof, 750ml, $36.09 by special order in PA (PLCB item #6105014); $33.99 at Benash Liquors.

Nuestra Soledad, Santa María Zoquitlán Espadín

The Nuestra Soledad series showcases mezcals from six different communities, selected by Casa Cortés, the family behind El Jolgorio. This espadín mezcal bursts with blueberry sweetness and a well-rounded body that lands with a cracked black pepper tingle and dried green herbs on the finish. Impressively complex for this price point. Nuestra Soledad, Santa María Zoquitlán Espadín, 92 proof, 750ml, $54.99 at Benash Liquors.

Mezcal Vago Ensamble Tío Rey

Salomon Rey Rodriguez (Tío Rey) makes this mezcal in 300 liter batches from an ensamble blend of five different agaves (espadín, coyote, blanco, Mexicano, arroqueño) in the ancestrale method, crushed by hand mallets and distilled in clay pots called olla de barro. The resulting spirit is hot, befitting its high proof, incredibly earthy, and gamy, but also balanced with a rich mouthfeel expressive of sweet agave, mint, and a restrained smokiness rounding the finish. Mezcal Vago Ensamble Tio Rey, 100.2 proof, 750ml, $88.49 (PLCB item #5655134).

Neta Espadín Capón

Any perceived bias about the limitations of espadín, the most ubiquitous agave used in mezcal, should be punctured by this gorgeous spirit from Miahuatlán in Oaxaca. Ripe orchard fruits of pear and peach burst through the nose, with well integrated smoke that unfurls like green peppercorns and bacon on the finish. Neta Espadín Capón, 95 proof, 750ml, available by special order in PA, $100.39 (PLCB item #641073); $99.99 at Benash Liquors.

5 Sentidos Espadín-Cuixe-Madreculxe

An ensamble blend of three agaves (espadín, cuixe, madreculxe)is roasted together underground over mesquite and oak, crushed by hand mallets, and distilled in copper. This 70-liter batch was aged 15 years in glass, which allowed this rambunctious, high-proof spirit to harmonize impressively into rounded flavors that come in waves on the palate with a profile Dan Suro called prototypical Mihuatlán: dried green apples, pepper, and umami lingering on a gentle smoke. 5 Sentidos Espadín-Cuixe-Madreculxe, 101 proof, 750ml, special order in PA, $102.79 (PLCB item #661114); $104.99 at Benash Liquors.

El Jolgorio Mezcal Tobalá Don Goyo

Made from tobalá, one of the smallest agaves and also among the most prized, this was one of the most elegant spirits we tasted, with a nose so verdant and floral “it’s like walking into a botanic greenhouse,” with wispy smoked notes reminiscent of lapsang souchong tea and a lovely balance of marzipan, mint, and butter. As one taster noted, “it’s like biting into a very special croissant.” El Jolgorio Mezcal Tobalá Don Goyo, special order in PA, $115.09 (SLO 576436). $129.99 at Benash Liquors.

Rezpiral, Series 6 Mezcal Ensamble de 7 Leonardo

Though restrained on the nose, this ensamble of seven different agaves uncoils on the palate with beguiling complexity. It’s vegetal and creamy at the same time with a deep whiff of what Dan Suro identified as petrichor, the smell of wet dry grass afterrain. “This is excellent,” he said, “it’s got it all.” Rezpiral, Series 6 Mezcal Ensamble de 7 Leonardo, 97.6 proof, 750ml, special order in PA, $126.49 (PLCB item #648022); $124.99 at Benash Liquors.

Chacolo Destilado de Agave Brocha/Ixtero Amarillo

Made in Zapotitlán, Jalisco, from a blend of brocha and ixtero amarillo, this destilado de agave is distilled in Filipino-style stills made of copper and hollow parrota tree trunks. Among my favorites, this brawny beauty is a live-wire sipper that smells like cajeta (goat’s milk caramel) and tropical fruits, and surges with a bright acidity, volcanic clay notes, then dark chocolate and menthol. Chacolo Destilado de Agave Brocha/Ixtero Amarillo, 94.8 proof, 750ml, $129.99 at both Benash and Clayton Liquors.

Mezonte Don Santos Juárez

Santos Juárez’s distillery in Toliman, Jalisco, sits in the foothills of a mountainous UNESCO biosphere where he grows 14 varieties of agave (maguey), hand-crushes them after pit roasting, and then ferments in 400-year-old carved stone pits that date to the earliest era of mezcal production. He’s not far from Chacolo, but his spirit is a little brighter and extremely delicate, with a cream soda sweetness framed by a sparkle of green chile juice and misty campfire smoke. Mezonte Don Santos Juárez, 90.6 proof, 750ml, special order in PA, $145.89 (PLCB item #636001).

La Venenosa Raicillla Volcanes de Jalisco

Made in Southern Jalisco by Don Arturo Campos from cenizo agave, this spirit is double-distilled in clay pots, unlike most distillados de agave from Jalisco. It’s incredibly distinctive, with a cheesy puff tang up front, but as it develops on the palate with a rich mouthfeel and notes of cracked pepper, it becomes uncannily reminiscent of cacio e pepe. La Venenosa Raicillla Volcanes de Jalisco, 91.2 proof, 750ml, special order in Pa., $96.59 (PLCB item #616091); and $94.99 at Benash Liquors.