Drink: Booker’s cocktail Blackened Bourbon has fruity but balanced notes

In Saba Tedla’s previous life in corporate finance for software companies, she worked for four years in Lexington, Ky., and also grew a fondness for American whiskey. That explains why about 15 bottles reside behind the bar at her Cedar Park restaurant, Booker’s. Ironically, the coveted bourbon called Booker’s is no longer one of them. After a couple years on the shelf, it simply did not prove to be a popular order, despite the fact this cask-strength gem of Jim Beam’s “small batch” collection was an absolute deal at $12 for a 3-ounce pour — compared to $17 for 2 ounces. at Lloyd in Fishtown and $31 (yikes!) at Village Whiskey near Rittenhouse.

Oh well. Cocktails have become the most natural showcase for the spirits at Booker’s, where they’re typically mixed with fruit-forward blends that border on sweet. The Blackened Bourbon, though, is the drink that most successfully approached that line without fully crossing it. Fresh muddled blackberries, simple syrup and bright lime laid a bass line of dark and fruity notes, while a shot of Jim Beam Black added notable barrel spice, the Black’s extra aging rich with caramel, cinnamon and charred oak vanilla. It’s still appropriately boozy, but also a natural combination for easy drinking when blended just right. And I knew my verdict when my final sip of Booker’s deep purple brew left nothing but clear ice.

— Craig LaBan

Blackened Bourbon, $12, Booker’s, 5021 Baltimore Ave., 215-883-0960; bookersrestaurantandbar.com