Great Wine Values: Château de Montfort Vouvray Loire Valley
Why you should be drinking one of the most underrated grapes of all time
Vouvray is a little town located in the Touraine district, a picturesque region nicknamed the “Garden of France” for its wealth of stately Renaissance châteaus on manicured grounds. Red-skinned grapes struggle to ripen here, so Vouvray wines are always white. They are made with an ancient grape called chenin blanc, which ranks among the most underrated wine grapes of all time.
Like riesling, chenin blanc has enough concentration of flavor and natural resistance to oxidation for it to excel in making low-alcohol, high-sugar wines, a style known in French as “demi-sec." But, like chardonnay, chenin blanc can also produce spectacular dry wines in every style imaginable, from delicate, sparkling bone-dry bruts in colder regions like northern France, to opulently oaky, barrel-fermented chenin blancs in warmer, drier places like Napa Valley or South Africa.
However, it is Vouvray’s lightweight demi-sec for which the village is best known, as with this charming example. With its vivid flavors of orchard-ripened apples and cider-like sweet-tart balance, this wine is so delicious on its own that it makes a delightful aperitif. What is less often appreciated is just how brilliant a food partner these wines can be. Not only do they do wonders for simple lightweight foods, like salads, fish and poultry, but they are a lifesaver for wine lovers who like foods that present a challenge for drier wines, whether due to their own sweetness in a sauce or a kick of spicy heat.
Château de Montfort Vouvray Loire Valley, France, $12.99 (regularly $14.99); PLCB Item #8747; sale price through Aug. 25.
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