A Fishtown ‘little guy’ is named one of the best grocers in America
Whether they come for pierogies or pickles, check cashing or craft beer, the market is about customers and community.
John Hallinan and the grocery business go way back.
When he was about 10, growing up in East Lansdowne, he’d take his Radio Flyer wagon to the local market and cart people’s groceries home for change. He worked in the business through high school and after. He bagged food and worked nights. As an adult, he operated independent markets with his grocer father,John Sr. before going out on his own.
In 1998, he bought a market in Fishtown next to Port Richmond. One of the big chains was supposed to be opening up nearby, but Hallinan thought his store could offer something special.
“Our mission is local,” he said this week. “We call ourselves a neighbor.”
The market and its owner are getting some big props for accomplishing that goal.
The Independent Grocers Alliance is honoring Hallinan and his Richmond Shops as an IGA Retailer of the Year.
The Philadelphia market in the Fishtown Crossing shopping plaza on Aramingo Avenue is one of nine food retailers out of about 1,700 nationwide to receive that accolade.
In February, one of the nine will be named IGA USA International Retailer of the Year. The Philly honoree is the only winner in the Northeast.
The honorees are grocers who have shown “leadership and excellence in their communities,” according to the IGA, as well as service to their customers and others.
“John Hallinan and his team have established a reputation for local ownership and commitment to not only shoppers but their respective communities,” said IGA CEO John Ross.
That’s meant being responsive to the wants and needs of communities that have seen many changes since the Richmond Shops IGA began 25 years ago.
“When I started here in 1998, you had mom and dad and the kids shopping on Friday night with the paycheck,” said Hallinan, 67.
Since then, the longtime residents have been joined by new neighbors. Meat-and-potato loyalists are sharing the aisles with new immigrants, vegan purists, demanding foodies. You name it.
“The good thing about my customers is they tell you what they want, and we’re good listeners,” Hallinan said.
Over time, the market has added organic and plant-based foods. It opened a bottle shop that was named Best of Philly by Philadelphia Magazine in 2021 — the “best kept secret we’re about to ruin forever.” Richmond Shops also has sushi and boba.
The Richmond Shops has welcomed products of local small food entrepreneurs — pierogies, honey, baked goods, sauces and rubs, and more. They include businesses led by women and people of color and homegrown operations run by just one or two people.
“I’m a little guy, and I started as a little guy,” Hallinan said. “We’re little people and we believe in little people. We believe in giving people a chance.”
Melissa Morales, the creator of Melmo’s Dog Treats, said the Richmond Shops IGA gave her one of her first big breaks.
“As a small business, the deck is stacked against you, but the IGA was one of my first stores,” said the South Philly resident. “They really were just super supportive.”
That was in the beginning of the pandemic. Her dog treats are now in 35 stores.
The couple behind the Fishtown Pickle Project had a similar experience.
Chef Mike Sicinski and dietitian Niki Toscani gave their homemade pickles to guests at their May 2018 wedding and got such raves they decided to try to sell them.
Richmond Shops played an important part in the success of the couple’s pickles, now carried by over 100 shops.
“Not only were they one of our earliest customers, but they’re one of our best customers,” Toscani said.
The market carries some of their more adventuresome products, she said, and the local goods are given prominent display.
Richmond Shops also gives back to the community. Each year, $30,000 is donated for scholarships to four local parochial schools located in Fishtown, Port Richmond, and Kensington. In addition, the market provides food and support to community, civic, and antihunger projects, said Don Petzak, market general manager.
A big part of the market’s success is the staff, said Petzak and Hallinan. Each of its 115 employees were given a gift card in honor of the award.
“It’s great, it’s well-deserved,” said Julius Kane, a three-decade employee. “Customers love this place. It’s very close-knit.”
Vicky Hummel, a physician and store customer, said the people who work at the market make it special.
“The staff is more than friendly,” the Northern Liberties resident said. “They’re more like family. It’s that kind of store.”
That kind of feeling itself is a crowning achievement for Hallinan, a proud father and grandfather who just celebrated his 49th wedding anniversary to Cecilia, his high school sweetheart.
“I’m just happy to be recognized on the behalf of my store, my employees, and the effort we put out in our community,” he said. “If we get a bigger prize, that’s all well and good. But my job is right here in the Philadelphia market, taking care of my customers.”