One more Jersey diner, to go? | Let’s Eat

What’ll it be, hon? Sad news for diner fans, alas. Also this week, we lighten the mood by exploring the trend of putting caviar on Doritos, visiting a solid wine-and-pasta bar in Fishtown, and scoping out bars that are fine when you have kids in tow.

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Clean cars may be important, but can Jersey afford to lose another diner? Colleague Kevin Riordan writes about reported plans to raze Cherry Hill Diner and build a car wash — within sight of an existing car wash. “I’m not a food snob,” one customer told him. “But there’s a difference between franchise food and mom-and-pop food.”

Diner culture throughout the Philly area is on the decline, with the Melrose closed perhaps temporarily by fire and the Broad Street possibly facing demolition. For the diner biz, it’s a matter of economics.

Caviar has become more democratized, and now there’s a trending TikTok video of an influencer popping the delicacy on Doritos. Caviar maven Lauren Biederman of Biederman’s Specialty Foods in South Philadelphia (and herself a 20-something) is not sure about that. “The combination is a little too salty and I’m not a fan of cheese dust on my caviar,” she told me. “I lean toward potato chips for the high-low, and like to spice it up by making the onion dip from the Lipton’s onion soup packet, which adds the right tanginess with sour cream. As far as a ‘yes or no’ for Doritos topping, I say go for what you like but no need to spend the osetra price tag with its delicate flavor — just get a hackleback or Kaluga.” Wait till you see what noted chefs think.

A Philly brewpub’s no-one-under-21-after-2 p.m. policy recently touched off a heated debate among Philadelphians: Are bars and breweries appropriate places for parents to bring their kids? Colleague Jenn Ladd follows up with a roundup of 15 places to drink in Philly and the suburbs with kids in tow.

Observing Dry January? Colleague Hira Quershi offers tips on how to stay sober-curious going forward.

Why is Tulip Pasta & Wine Bar such a hot table? The chicken liver cannoli you see above is only one highlight of chef/managing partner Alexander Beninato’s menu. Critic Craig LaBan writes: “This charming newcomer glows bright from its little storefront in the heart of Fishtown and has mustered a host of key virtues — accessible style and good cooking without too much fuss, a serious locavore mission (including its wine and wheat), and an intimate neighborhood vibe. 🔑

Chef Dane DeMarco is looking at Thursday for the opening of Gass & Main, a rustic all-American BYOB at 7 King’s Court in Haddonfield, former home of Valente’s Cucina. This is their second South Jersey spot, following last year’s opening of the far more casual Burgertime in Audubon.

Cozy dining room rocks a vintage farmhouse theme including artwork and antique farm implements from the collection of DeMarco’s artist/chef father, Benjamin “Benzo” DeMarco. They’re going creative with the food. Shown above is DeMarco’s take on Ants on a Log (chicken liver mousse with brandied cherries and cherry gastrique).

Figure $20-$30 per entree at dinner (served from 4:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday) and $15-$20 per person at weekend brunch (9:30 a.m.-3 p.m.). Lunch is due soon. Reservations will be available through Tock after 4 p.m. Thursday.

Gass & Main, named after the intersection in Las Vegas where DeMarco married Sierra Lander in 2020, is one of 60-plus restaurants opening in 2023.

Briefly noted:

Wokworks, the Asian-inspired bowl eatery, will open its Fishtown pickup and delivery window Friday at Frankford Avenue and Marlborough Street with a Friday the 13th-ish spin: Customers can flip a coin. Those who call it correctly will get a free bowl from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Shop is open till 1 a.m.

Memphis Taproom in Kensington will close at the end of January. New owners are coming with a new concept.

A location of Good Carma Cafe has closed because of alleged embezzlement.

Philly’s Primo Hoagies is expanding out west.

Your favorite wine and spirits may cost more, effective Sunday. The Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board has raised many prices 4%.

Center City District Restaurant Week starts Sunday and runs through Jan. 28.

Hey, Philly bartenders! We’re looking for your dating advice and stories.

Northern Liberties is getting a restaurant called SIN Philadelphia this fall. The name means “Steak Italian Nightlife,” three of its attributes. Restaurateur Justin Veasey (at left, with developer Michael Stamm, right, and project manager Abel Santos Jr.) promises “vibe dining” and cheese wheel pasta.

A former Philadelphia athlete announced that he would open a restaurant in his hometown, and wants to take one to Philly, too. Who is this?

A) Allen Iverson

B) LeSean McCoy

C) Scott Rolen

D) Bernie Parent

The Answer (there’s your clue!) is here.

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