Paesano’s, a sandwich destination, returns with a new shop in South Philadelphia

Paesano’s Philly Style — chef Peter McAndrews’ popular sandwich shop — has been revived in a new location in South Philadelphia’s Italian Market.

McAndrews, now working with his son, Aidan, opened Saturday at 943 S. Ninth St., a storefront across from Villa di Roma that most recently was Nourish before a fire.

Peter McAndrews said he has, for now, stepped away from his Modo Mia trattoria at Fifth Street and Passyunk Avenue in Queen Village. McAndrews, who opened there in February 2020 just before the pandemic, said he was trying to renegotiate his lease.

At Paesano’s, which bounced around town for a decade, the McAndrewses have revived what erstwhile Inquirer food writer Rick Nichols called ”singularly awesome, big-flavor, meal-on-a-roll sandwiches.”

There’s the Liveracce, with crispy chicken liver, Genoa salami, raw onion, roasted tomato, orange aioli, gorgonzola, iceberg lettuce, and hot sauce. There’s also the Gustaio, a grilled lamb sausage with sun-dried cherry mostarda, gorgonzola, roasted fennel, and arugula. The Bolognese combines lasagna Bolognese, crispy eggplant, pan-seared mortadella, sharp provolone, pistachio, golden raisins, and marsala. All are served on rolls from Carangi Bakery.

He also brought over some antipasti and three pastas from Modo Mio, making it suitable for an early dinner.

Peter McAndrews hit the radar in late 2007 with Modo Mio, a BYOB trattoria, in a corner space at Girard Avenue and Hancock Street on the Northern Liberties-Kensington line. McAndrews had been chef for 12 years at the late Rembrandt’s in Fairmount. (Modo Mio closed five years ago.)

McAndrews went the sandwich route with Paesano’s in late 2008 as a six-seat counter across Girard Avenue from Modo Mio. A few years later, he moved it a few doors down for more space; it closed early in the pandemic.

In 2010, he opened a Paesano’s at Ninth and Christian Streets in the Italian Market. In 2011, he converted that Paesano’s location into a Sicilian trattoria called Monsu, and moved the Paesano’s two blocks south.

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McAndrews opened a bar-restaurant called La Porta in Media and a BYOB called Popolino at Fifth Street and Fairmount Avenue on the edge of Northern Liberties. Then came a taqueria called Heffe in Fishtown, and a Paesano’s location on Temple University’s campus. He still owns La Porta. Heffe is open under different ownership. The other restaurants have closed.

The Paesano’s at 943 S. Ninth St. is open from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Wednesday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday, and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday.