Chef Volodymyr Hyvel’s Ukrainian borscht is a savory ode to his homeland

Ukrainian-born chef Volodymyr Hyvel, who used to cook borscht in vast quantities for the banquet hall he ran in Odesa, does not often cook it for his Euro-fusion menu at The Choice, the polished BYOB he now co-owns in Bryn Mawr with his wife and in-laws. That changed, after the Russian invasion of his homeland. The Choice has been selling to-go pints of borscht as a fund-raiser for Ukrainian relief. It happens to be one of the best I’ve ever eaten, with perfectly balanced flavors of earthy sweetness, savory vegetables, and chicken, and a brilliant ruby hue that Hyvel carefully preserves by not boiling his beets in the final step, once they’re incorporated into the finished soup.

If you can’t make it over to The Choice, make this borscht at home with the same recipe Hyvel used in Odesa. Scale it up, invite friends over, and have your own borscht fund-raiser for Ukrainian relief.

Makes 10-12 servings

¾ pound chicken breast (or other meat, such as pork or beef), cubed (400 g)

9 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided in thirds

4 quarts water

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

4½ cups chopped onions (250 g)

3 ¼ cups shredded carrots (300 g)

3¼ cups shredded beets (300 g)

2 tablespoons white vinegar (30 ml)

2½ tablespoons sugar (30 g)

¼ cup tomato paste (70 g)

4¼ cups cubed potato (600 g)

4¼ cups shredded cabbage (300 g)

1 cup cubed tomatoes (200 g)

6 garlic cloves, pressed

Salt and pepper, to taste

Sour cream and dill, to garnish

Season the chicken with salt. In a large pot, sear the chicken in 3 tablespoons of the hot oil. Once it’s nicely browned, add water to half the height of the pot along with the bay leaves and black peppercorns. Simmer until the chicken is fully cooked, about 15-20 minutes.

In a separate pan, while chicken is cooking, sauté the chopped onion and shredded carrot in 3 tablespoons of oil and cook on medium for about 15 minutes, until much of their liquid is evaporated. (Be sure to season the vegetables with a little salt while they cook.)

In a separate pot, cook the beets in another 3 tablespoons oil. Cook over medium heat for about 10-15 minutes, and then add the vinegar, which helps retain the color, and the sugar. Cook for 4 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for another two minutes. Add enough water to just cover the beets and cook them for 10-15 minutes until they are tender.

Once the chicken is cooked, add the potatoes to the pot, making sure there is enough water to cover all the ingredients. Cook 12-15 minutes until the potato cubes are tender, then add the cabbage and diced tomatoes. Cook for another 5 minutes. Add pressed garlic cloves.

Once all three components are fully cooked, combine the carrot and onion mixture into the larger main pot with the chicken and simmer together for 5 minutes. Finally, add the beets to the main pan, but be careful not to let it boil, or the color will change. It can remain warm like this on the stove, however, for a long time. Season soup to taste, adjusting for salt.It should make about 5 quarts of soup.

To serve, place in bowls and garnish with a spoonful of sour cream, if desired, and a sprig of dill.