Chef Pierre Calmels returns to his old kitchen for two nights of cassoulet magic

Bibou, once one of Philadelphia’s most acclaimed restaurants, was a victim of the coronavirus pandemic, wrapping its 11-year run on March 14, 2020, two days before the romance of white-glove service gave way to latex.

The closing came without warning. Chef Pierre Calmels and Charlotte Calmels converted the 22-seat French BYOB into a charcuterie before closing for good and selling the building, in South Philadelphia’s Bella Vista neighborhood. Pierre Calmels is executive chef of the private Philadelphia Club, while Charlotte Calmels manages the Orpheus Club.

Two months ago, chefs Jake Loeffler, Daniel Griffiths, and Sam Kalkut opened Paffuto, a casual Italian restaurant, in the space, and they will host Calmels in his shoebox-size kitchen for a dinner engagement featuring one of Calmels’ specialties, cassoulet, on March 18 and 19.

The dinner dates happen to be at the tail end of winter, apropos of cassoulet’s being a winter dish. Calmels’ version includes duck leg confit, house-made pork sausage, bacon, and tarbais beans.

The cassoulet nights will be BYOB, with seatings at 5:30 and 7:45 p.m. with a $95 prix-fixe menu. In addition to the dining room, there are three bar stools facing the kitchen available for each seating. The menu will include a salad to start, unlimited family-style cassoulet, and a collaborative dessert.

Reservations are now available, first-come, first-served, via email (paffutophl@gmail.com), as Paffuto is still in the process of setting up its reservation system. Paffuto asks prospective guests to email their desired date, time, and party size. There will be limited tables of two or four in addition to individual counter seats.

Those unable to secure a reservation can order cassoulet to go for pickup March 20 from 3 to 6 p.m. Orders may be placed via email through March 10. Pricing has not been set.