16 rising stars in Philadelphia’s restaurant world

Restaurants are a team sport. But too often diners only know the star chef or owner when, in fact, dinner isn’t happening if it wasn’t for all the hardworking sous-chefs, managers, servers, dishwashers, bartenders and farmers that help keep the meals flowing.

Of course, everyone must start somewhere to learn their craft, often behind the scenes. But talent and drive cannot be denied. So who’s working behind the scenes right now that you should know? To celebrate the Inquirer’s new dining guide, we asked the owners of this year’s top 10 restaurants in Philadelphia to introduce us to the rising stars on their staffs. Check out their answers to some of our questions below, listed in the order, from left to right, they were standing in a photo shot in FDR Park in South Philly. As much as they help Philadelphia’s dining scene soar today, this group offers an exciting glimpse into the future.

These interviews have been condensed and edited for clarity.

» READ MORE: The 2022 Inquirer Dining Guide

Julianna Bursack

General Manager at Her Place Supper Club, 31, from Philadelphia

Most important work experience prior to this job?

I have always tilted between the hospitality industry and a corporate job. Urbn provided me the skills to organize and manage. Vetri was an endless class in wine and hospitality...(and how) to make it more graceful!

Hardest part about your job?

I had absolutely no idea, even after working in the hospitality industry for many years, how difficult it is to run a restaurant. It’s very intense, balancing a thousand things to do in 24hrs.

Thing about this industry you wish you could change?

We should source our food locally and most responsibly. As a lot of restaurants practice this, the cost is more. I dislike the push back from the public sometimes... Americans seem too hardwired for the best deal and want their experiences in the food industry to be cheaper.

From Her Place owner and chef Amanda Shulman: Julianna’s capacity to do it all, and to do it with grace, is beyond impressive. Her attentiveness to detail stretches far beyond the pages of our wine lists.

Sous Chef at Her Place Supper Club, 27, from Wilmington

Most important work experience before this job?

I was on the production team at Lilly Pulitzer...This was my job right out of college after studying Textile Design and made me realize all I wanted to do was cook all the time. Cooking was the only thing that kept me sane after work.

Favorite part about your job?

My favorite part about my current job is the constant changing of the menu and learning new techniques and food styles every day and week. This restaurant is amazing because of its flexibility and willingness to put anything that we want to on the plate.

Thing about this industry you wish you could change?

What I dislike the most about the industry right now is that the guest is still able to take advantage of the hospitality we put forward. But without a livable base pay for servers and kitchen staff, we are allowing people to not tip and act whatever way towards our servers.

From owner and chef Amanda Shulman: Maddie’s positivity and good attitude are infectious. She brings an electric spirit to every room she enters and to every service she cooks. This paired with her ability to calmly execute on any task makes her a force in the kitchen.

Christina (Tina) Stanczyk

General Manager at Cantina la Martina, 25, from Cherry Hill

Why did you choose this career?

Every single person that sat at my bar had a different story to tell or random piece of advice I could take with me. I don’t know of any other job that could introduce me to so many unique people all in one day.

Thing about this industry you wish you could change?

I don’t enjoy meeting pretentious people in this industry. People can go far and succeed beyond their limits without being egotistical.

From owner-chef Dionicio Jiménez: She has been through a lot in her life but she does not give up... She is always trying to do her best and please our guests, and she’s always learning.

Sous chef at Cantina la Martina, 25, from San Mateo Ozolco, Puebla, México

Favorite part about your job?

When the chef shows you your mistakes and teaches you how to improve your work.

Thing about this industry you wish you could change?

I don’t like that some cooks think they are better than others who have been in the industry for less time.

From La Cantina Martina owner (and Jose Alberto’s dad) chef Dionicio Jiménez: He likes to learn...He is not scared to try. He does not give up and he owns his mistakes and learns from them.

Pastry chef at Friday Saturday Sunday, 35, from rural Northwest Indiana

Most important work experience prior to this job?

When I was working in Stephanie Izard’s restaurants in Chicago I worked with another pastry chef named Mathew Rice. He taught me a lot about incorporating my own personality and things that I enjoy putting into my desserts.

What is your specialty?

Cannelés. I have a lot of fun playing around with new flavors.

Thing about this industry you wish you could change?

There has definitely been a shift in the industry toward self care and I want to see more of that.

From owner-chef Chad Williams: (Amanda’s) a technical wizard with a cool and whimsical streak that makes her dishes really special.

Executive Chef at Lark Restaurant, 38, from Lansdowne, Delaware County (”Far West Philly”)

Most important work experience before this job?

Probably my experience working at Michelin-starred A Voce in Manhattan under Missy Robbins. It was the first job I ever had that I thought every day I wasn’t good enough. I just kept pushing and after about two months everything clicked. That kitchen broke me down and then built me back up.

Favorite tool you use at work?

I really enjoy working on the wooden pasta table. It’s calming to me. I also really enjoy cleaning the floors, so a broom. I’ve been using a broom since day one, 25 years ago.

What is the most important advice you give to people starting out?

Start saving money now.

Thing you this industry you wish you could change?

I’ve learned to embrace it all, good and bad. I guess I wish I could finally get through to all guests that there are only four different temperatures to cook a strip steak.

From owner and chef Nicholas Elmi: We worked side by side for the first three months of Lark...and I can say it was the most fun I’ve had cooking in a long time. (Michael’s) hysterical and serious at the same time. Makes the job fun for everyone but very determined to be great.

Chef de Cuisine at Friday Saturday Sunday, 33, from the Bronx, NYC

Favorite part about this job?

Recipe development. It’s great to be able to integrate my Dominican upbringing with my experience within the industry.

Thing about this industry you wish you could change?

I wish this industry had more racial and gender diversity especially at the highest level.

Where do you see yourself in five years?

In five years I will be continuing to broaden the lens of fine dining by introducing more Caribbean style cooking.

From owner-chef Chad Williams: (Sashia is) ferociously creative with drive and discipline to match.

Manager and Events Coordinator at Lark, 32; from South Brunswick, NJ

Most important work experience prior to this job?

I had the pleasure of working side by side some amazing and talented people in this industry. I worked at Mistral in Princeton NJ in 2016 and not only did I learn so much I created great friendships that will last a lifetime.

Hardest part about your job?

Balancing work and my 20 month old baby girl.

What’s the most important advice you give to people starting out?

Take in as much knowledge as you can from those around you. Take the chance to get to know people’s stories whether they are your co-worker or your customer. The world and people are truly fascinating.

From owner and chef Nicholas Elmi: (Simone’s) positivity inspires others around her to be and do better. And with a patience that is rarely seen these days in this industry. We’re currently looking into ways to clone her.

Chef de cuisine at Fiorella, 37, from Lewiston, Maine

Most important work experience before this job?

I was a history teacher prior to cooking. Working as an academic and a teacher guided my approach to cooking in that I appreciate the importance of being both a perpetual student and a leader/coach.

Favorite tool you use at work?

My pasta fork that chef Marc Vetri gifted to me!

What is the most important advice you give to people starting out?

Be ready to work hard and to accept failure as a path to greatness.

From chef-owner Marc Vetri: Matt has an incredible sense of the role he and his team plays in the overall guest experience. His attention to detail, desire to please and humble nature make him an essential ingredient to the success of Fiorella and a great glimpse into the future of our industry.

Farmer and owner of Smith Poultry, 37, from Egg Harbor Township

Most important work experience before this job?

My (full-time day) job in the Air Force working as a mechanic on C130 planes exposes me to various challenges all over the world...and gives me the confidence and courage to change the culture of how we eat.

Favorite part about your job?

The ability to not just grow food but grow communities. It’s an honor to be one of the Black farmers in the Philadelphia area. This exposure is important to get kids who look like me to know they can grow food and make a difference.

Where do you see yourself in five years?

I hope that I can become a hub of education, Southern food history, whole hog BBQ, farming and outreach for the area.

From chef Melissa McGrath, a Smith Poultry customer at Sweet Amalia Cafe & Market: I admire how much Kyle prioritizes educating others and supporting other farms all while running his own farm and being active military His eggs, chicken and pork are some of the best I’ve ever had. The yolks are outrageous in texture and flavor.

Chef de Cuisine at Vernick Food & Drink, 30, from Cherry Hill.

What is the most important advice you give to people starting out?

Do what you’re told. In other words, always follow the directions you were given by your superior. It’s amazing how many people don’t do this.

Where do you see yourself in five years?

I hope to be exploring different parts of the industry apart from fine dining. I’d love to get more experience in bread baking.

From chef and owner Greg Vernick: Creatively, (Meredith) has the natural instincts that take most chefs years to develop. Recognition that sometimes the greatest ingredient is the one you leave out.

Assistant General Manager, Vernick Food & Drink, 35, originally from Detroit

Favorite part about your job?

When the service clicks seamlessly between multiple people and positions, and it comes together on a table that doesn’t even know exactly what happened. They just know that it was tight.

Hardest part about your job?

Balance. I think we all figured out during the pandemic that we needed better work/life balance. Restaurants take up a lot of time an energy, more than people outside our industry may know. You have to replenish yourself as often as possible with family, food, exercise, love.

Thing about this industry you wish you could change?

We need more young people. More Black/brown people. More queer people. More women in charge. More languages. More everybody. On both sides of the house.

From chef and owner Greg Vernick: James is a natural-born leader. He has the unique ability to connect with our staff and guests on intimate levels, sometimes simultaneously, which is an invaluable trait. He deeply cares and respects all aspects of the craft, always grounded in warm hospitality.

Sous chef at Pera Turkish Cuisine, 33, from Zonguldak in the Black Sea region of Turkey

Favorite part about your job?

I’ve been living in Philadelphia for eight months, and think I’ve played an important role in promoting our (Turkish) culinary culture in Philadelphia.

Favorite tool you use at work?

Knives. Not only the (long, curving) zirh that is a symbol for Turkish cuisine, but all my knives have different uses to display my art.

From Pera chef-owner Mehmet Ergin: Since we opened, Metin has touched every single detail...He loves what he does...and is truly working from heart. He (sticks by me even) on difficult days. I will always appreciate to Metin.

Chef de cuisine at Royal Izakaya, 32, from Bucks County

What is your specialty?

All varieties of Japanese cuisine. I love to experiment with Washoku (traditional Japanese food), Wafu (Japanese food inspired by Western cuisine), Shiojin Ryori (Buddhist monk cuisine), and Izakaya bar food. There’s so much diversity in one culture’s cuisine.

Thing about this industry you wish you could change?

The disparity in pay for cooks and dishwashers/porters compared to front of house staff. I think it’s changing for the better — we strive to provide fairly equal pay at Royal Izakaya — but the industry still has a long way to go.

Where do you see yourself in five years?

Hopefully running my own place. Maybe a Jewish deli or a Japanese inspired bakery. Or a mashup of the two...

What owner Jesse Ito says: Justin has an unmatched work ethic, and also leads with kindness. He’s also the only chef my dad has trusted to run our kitchen (besides me). It is a pleasure to work with him.

General manager, Laser Wolf, 36, from Scranton

Why did you choose this career?

My dad had a restaurant growing up and I started bussing tables at 14. When I moved to Philadelphia for school, it was a natural choice. I thought I would like to get out but instead, I found a love of the industry.

Hardest part about your job?

This is my first time as a GM and I could not have signed up for what we were put up against — opening just before the pandemic. It truly taught us some incredible lessons and also helped us to come out as a better more efficient functioning restaurant.

Thing about this industry you wish you could change?

The lack of benefits and job security offered to people. Luckily, [at Laser Wolf] we are making some really overdue and important steps to make that happen.

From executive chef Andrew Henshaw: Kailey is the driving force behind the fun loving, caring culture amongst our staff which creates the amazing atmosphere at Laser Wolf!

Sous Chef at Laser Wolf, 32, from near West Chester

Favorite part about your job?

Cooking primarily over charcoal is super fun but also makes you slow down and really think about what you’re doing as opposed to turning on a burner or lighting a propane grill.

If you weren’t doing this job, what else would you be doing?

Playing guitar in a band. It’s the only other thing I’m any good at.

Thing about this industry you wish you could change?

Something that’s always bothered me about the restaurant industry is the glorified suffering. People brag about how hard their job is or how many hours they work in a week. I’d like to see that fall out of fashion.

From executive chef Andrew Henshaw: Kevin sees and thinks about food in a way that challenges norms and helps add to the creativity at laser wolf.