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The jumbo shrimp in hot peppers at EMei at 915 Arch St. on Sept. 15, 2022.
The jumbo shrimp in hot peppers at EMei at 915 Arch St. on Sept. 15, 2022.Read moreCharles Fox / Staff Photographer
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EMei

Center CityChinese, Szechuan$$

On a busy night at EMei, a veritable river of fish roll into this contemporary dining room on robot-driven carts that weave around porthole-pierced walls to giant tables brimming with international students. The plump sea bass cooked by chef Yongcheng Zhao, crisped into the popular “squirrel fish” with deep-fried filets crosshatched like pine cones beneath sweet and sour sauce, or steaming in pans of crimson “spicy sauce” beneath chilies and cilantro, focuses diners completely on a Szechuan feast with few peers in Philly. The shredded beef with hot peppers, West Lake beef soup, and salt-and-pepper squid are also outstanding. No dish showcases the skill of this kitchen, however, like Zhao’s mapo tofu. The region’s best rendition of this classic melds both the boldest and most nuanced traits of Szechuan cooking into one magnetic, nose-tingling tureen. Bonus: Most of EMei’s menu can also be made gluten-free.

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The Inquirer aims to represent the geographic, cultural, and culinary diversity of the region in its coverage. Inquirer staffers and contributors do not accept free or comped meals — all meals are paid for by the Inquirer. All dining recommendations are made solely by the Inquirer editorial staffers and contributors based on their reporting and expertise, without input from advertisers or outside interests.

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