Philadelphia lands a single James Beard Award finalist for 2024. What gives?

Perhaps the James Beard Foundation is tired of Philadelphia’s stream of winners and wants to give other towns some glory.

That was one wag’s cheeky explanation for how a single culinary star from Philadelphia — Jesse Ito of Royal Izakaya in Queen Village — landed on this year’s list of James Beard Award finalists, announced Wednesday by the nonprofit. Aside from 2021 and 2022, when the Beards were paused during the pandemic, Philadelphia has had multiple nominees each year for at least the last decade.

Last year, there were six nominees — and three major-category winners — for what are widely regarded as the Oscars of the food community: Friday Saturday Sunday (Outstanding Restaurant), Ellen Yin (Outstanding Restaurateur), and Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon of Kalaya (Best Chef in the Mid-Atlantic Region).

By and large, Philadelphia restaurant insiders seemed happy, though a bit let down. “The one left standing, Jesse, is incredibly strong and deserving,” said one publicist, who does not represent Ito or his restaurant.

And there’s the glow surrounding Vietnam Restaurant in Chinatown, which will receive an America’s Classics Award, one of six given to longtime, locally owned restaurants that “serve quality food, have timeless appeal, and reflect the character of their communities.” This award has been given annually since 1998. Vietnam joins such local America’s Classics destinations as Corinne’s Place (2022) in Camden, White House Sub Shop (2000), and Chef Vola’s (2011) in Atlantic City, and John’s Roast Pork (2006) in South Philadelphia.

Philadelphia had high hopes earlier this year when the list of semifinalists was released.

My Loup, Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp’s bustling bistro near Rittenhouse Square, was up for Outstanding New Restaurant, and Dionicio Jiménez of Cantina La Martina in Kensington, a previous nominee for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic, was on the list for Outstanding Chef. Isgro Pastries in South Philadelphia was a semifinalist for Outstanding Bakery. Yun Fuentes was on the Emerging Chef list for his work at Bolo, and Rittenhouse Square’s a.kitchen+bar, co-owned by 2023 Outstanding Restaurateur Ellen Yin, was on the list for Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program. Besides Ito, four of the 20 semifinalists for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic were from the Philadelphia area: Carlos Aparicio of El Chingon in South Philadelphia, Dane DeMarco of Gass & Main in Haddonfield, Randy Rucker of River Twice in South Philadelphia, and Omar Tate and Cybille St. Aude-Tate of Honeysuckle Provisions of West Philadelphia.

This is Ito’s seventh nomination.

On Wednesday, while firing up his rice cooker for the afternoon, he said he felt that familiar pang when he realized that the nominations were due out but was relieved to learn he had been nominated.

Ito is excited to break out the tux, fly to Chicago, and attend the ceremony on June 10. “It’s a lot of fun being at the ceremony, though I’m sad that there’s no one else,” he said, killing the buzz. “Last year was the first time where there were so many people and a lot of my friends. It was a lot of fun being there with everyone.”

Perhaps the more profound takeaway from the announcement is that Philadelphia is a hotbed of leadership in the industry: Two of the five recipients of the foundation’s 2024 Leadership Awards work in the region, recognized for working to set standards that “create more equitable, just, sustainable, and economically viable food systems for producers, workers, and consumers alike.” Muhammad Abdul-Hadi of Down North Pizza and the Down North Foundation in North Philadelphia was cited for Industry Culture and Practices, while Christa Barfield of FarmerJawn was honored for Emerging Leadership as someone “at the beginning of their career but already doing significant work.”

Abdul-Hadi, who opened Down North in 2000, said he hopes to “continue to shine the light on the issues we’re trying to tackle, as far as giving voice to individuals in the culinary space.” Among Down North’s causes is employing previously incarcerated employees. “Not having a culinary background but making an impact means a lot to be recognized by organization that’s as prestigious as James Beard.” Abdul-Hadi said the group is working to develop other restaurants, not just pizzerias, to spread its mission.

Barfield’s 128-acre farm in Chester County specializes in regenerative organic food production through a community supported agriculture program, storefronts, and educational programs. It’s designed not just to provide organic foods in areas with few such options but also to educate on the importance of sustainable agriculture and healthy eating. Barfield said she conceived FarmerJawn — the largest Black-owned food grower in Pennsylvania — as a vehicle to “change our food system. It’s not just about the fact that we’re growing and what we’re growing, but it’s also about how we believe in taking care of people and plants as well.” She said her goal this season is to grow a million pounds of food.

Abdul-Hadi and Barfield will be honored in a ceremony on June 9.