Three Philly spots make the New York Times’ Best Restaurants 2023 list

The New York Times is out with its annual list of 50 restaurants in the United States that, in the publication’s words, “we’re most excited about now,” and three of them are in Philadelphia.

Only Los Angeles and Philadelphia have three, the most in one city outside of New York, which has four.

Kalaya (chef Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon’s Thai destination in Kensington/Fishtown) and My Loup (chefs Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp’s buzzy French bistro in Rittenhouse) are familiar to readers of the national best-of lists. The third pick is more or less a local star: El Chingón (chef Carlos Aparicio’s Mexican BYOB in South Philadelphia), which Times writer Nikita Richardson praised in a spend-a-weekend-in-Philadelphia article in April.

All three restaurants are newcomers to the Times’ list. Gabriella’s Vietnam in South Philadelphia and Andiario in West Chester were included last year. Korshak Bagels — coincidentally due to close this Sunday (and not by any stretch a “restaurant”) — made the Times’ inaugural list in 2021, as did Down North Pizza and Laser Wolf.

Here’s what the Times said:

Carlos Aparicio’s Pueblan kitchen, which opened at 1524 S. 10th St. in November 2022, gets praise for its “picture-perfect cemitas made with springy bread,” his aguachile, and his traditional and not-so-traditional tacos made on house-made sourdough tortillas. “El Chingón doesn’t clamor for attention or traffic in gimmicks,” Nikita Richardson wrote. “It’s simply a neighborhood restaurant, albeit one of the highest order.”

» READ MORE: Craig LaBan's review of El Chingón

Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, who moved a year ago into the showplace at 4 W. Palmer St. with partner Defined Hospitality after an auspicious beginning in the Italian Market, still delivers “forcefully spiced, luminous cooking.” Writer Brett Anderson pays special attention to the shaw muang, venison curry, and goong phao, while encouraging diners to “marvel at the realization that this preternaturally gifted chef and restaurateur didn’t open her first place until age 50.”

» READ MORE: Craig LaBan's review of Kalaya

Chef Amanda Shulman — who has been picking up all kinds of plaudits for her first restaurant, Her Place Supper Club — and new husband and co-chef Alex Kemp have been rocking a fun vibe at 2005 Walnut St. since May. Writer Sara Bonisteel says they’ve created a weeknight spot that “feels like a dinner party in the spirit of Montreal’s Joe Beef, where both worked.” Weeknight is key; My Loup is open Monday to Friday.

» READ MORE: Craig LaBan's review of My Loup