Why there’s a ‘for rent’ sign on the award-winning South Philly Barbacoa
The restaurant’s lease is up in September. Its future is unknown.
South Philly Barbacoa, the humble taqueria and home base of James Beard Award-winning chef Cristina Martinez, appears to be preparing to leave its corner spot in the Italian Market after eight years.
Martinez’s assistant, Arely Peña, told The Inquirer on Saturday that a move is not imminent, despite last week’s posting of a “for rent” sign in a window. Peña said Martinez and staff wanted to help the landlord find a new tenant for 1140 S. Ninth St., which is three contiguous spaces at the northwest corner of Ninth and Ellsworth Streets. The lease expires in September, she said.
For now, it’s business as usual, she said: a modest menu of lamb tacos served in handmade corn tortillas.
Martinez also owns Casa Mexico, a bar-restaurant two doors away with an adjacent bar that she operates in collaboration with the operators of Connie’s Ric-Rac. Asked if Barbacoa eventually would operate out of Casa Mexico, Peña said nothing had been determined.
It’s been a long journey for Martinez, 52, an undocumented immigrant and champion of immigrant rights. Born into a family renowned for its lamb barbacoa in Capulhuac, Mexico, she left home at 17. Escaping what she described as an abusive relationship, she entered the United States and found work in Philadelphia, where she met her former partner, Ben Miller.
In early 2014, after leaving their jobs because of Martinez’s immigration status, Martinez and Miller started selling tacos and chickpea-lamb consommé out of a cart parked on the sidewalk near their home at Eighth and Watkins Streets.
In 2015, they quit the cart and opened a storefront at 11th and Ellsworth Streets (now Mike’s BBQ) before moving South Philly Barbacoa to its current location.
In late 2016, Martinez’s son, Isaías Berriozabal-Martinez, opened El Compadre, a restaurant across Ninth Street, specializing in tortas. He died unexpectedly several months later at age 23. That same year, Bon Appétit named South Philly Barbacoa one of the 10 best new restaurants.
In June 2022, Martinez won the best chef, Mid-Atlantic award from the James Beard Foundation. El Compadre’s storefront, at 1149 S. Ninth St., is now the People’s Kitchen and Masa Cooperativa.