The reason chardonnay dominates the white wine category

Chardonnay dominates the white wine realm for reasons that have more to do with its heft and texture than its flavor profile. Almost all of its competitors — from mainstream alternatives like sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio to more obscure options like riesling or albariño — are noticeably lighter in weight, feeling more sheer than substantial on the palate.

There is one regional family of white wine grapes from southern France, however, that is consistently able to deliver wines that can compete with chardonnay on a tactile level, as demonstrated in this unusual blend. These are the white varieties of the Rhône Valley, which include Grenache blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, and viognier.

Côtes du Rhône is the generic regional appellation used for all entry level wines in this French region. The vast majority are red blends based primarily on Grenache noir, and that grape also dominates Rhône rosés. For white wines, a green-skinned variant of this same grape takes center stage, known as the white Grenache or Grenache blanc.

Wines based on this grape have many of the traits we normally associate with only chardonnay. They have enough palate weight to reward fermenting in barrels, for instance, and can walk the fine line between richness and refreshment that can be a sign of greatness in white wines. Where chardonnay can taste of green apples or pineapple, though, Grenache blanc has a more neutral flavor profile closer to the subtlety of Asian pears or underripe honeydew melon. As a result, it is frequently supplemented with more fragrant grapes to add flavor interest, as with the inclusion here of the floral-scented viognier, and the odd couple of Marsanne and Roussanne, which contribute unusual aromatics reminiscent of fennel seeds, olive oil, and honeycomb. The overall effect is a wine that has chardonnay-like prowess in pairing with richer foods, like creamy sauces and spreadable cheeses.

Rhône Valley, France; 14% ABV

$13.99 (sale price through April 6, regularly $15.99), PLCB Item #6556

Also available at:

FranksWine in Wilmington: $11.49, frankswine.com;

Canal’s Liquors in Pennsauken: $13.99, canalsliquors.com;

WineWorks in Marlton: $14.98, wineworksonline.com