Skip to content
Link copied to clipboard
Link copied to clipboard

Wine Thief comes to Mount Airy

The neighborhood bistro opens Wednesday.

Wine Thief, Chris Simpson's bistro at 7152 Germantown Ave. (215-242-6700), is due to open Wednesday night. Chef Jared Cohen has worked at Max & David's in Elkins Park.

An early menu did not have prices, but Simpson has said everything is priced for the neighborhood. The establishment was among the recipients of a city incentive grant.

Expect such starters as eggplant cheesecake (with pine nuts & parmesan cream sauce), halibut ceviche with red onion, mandarin orange bell peppers & cilantro, a "Thief Roll" (with ahi tuna, wakame soy & wasabi crema); vegetarian French onion soup; and PEI mussels. Salads included a Caesar and Nicoise. Sandwich menu includes a vegetable burger, Buffalo burger and Black Angus burger, plus a grilled organic chicken sandwich with fresh mozzarella, broccoli rabe & sundried tomato aioli. Entree list included fried chicken (with corn bread pudding & braised collard greens); grilled hanger steak (with chimichurri, mashed plantains & fried jicama); a traditional cippino stew (with mussels, shrimp & halibut); seared tuna (with Israeli couscous salad & lemon mustard aioli); buffalo meatloaf (with roasted garlic mashed, grilled asparagus & shallot tomato sauce); and vegetable shepherd's pie. Nightly specials will include pork porterhouse, mac and cheese, roast duck, and lobster pot pie. There's also a kid's menu, whose selections include an organic hot dog and homemade organic chicken tenders.

The wine list is not set, but bottles will be priced $15 over retail, and glasses will be commensurately priced.

As for the name: "My wife and I were struck, as if by lightning, at the 2004 Virginia Wine Festival. While visiting Barboursville Vineyard, at our first barrel tasting, a wine thief took the stage. This simple "J"-shaped straw-like tube allowed us to taste merlot barrel aged 3 months compared to one aged 3 years. Tasting directly from the barrel is a treat, yet the experience was trumped by the introduction to a wine thief. This simple & efficient apparatus stole our hearts. We knew we had found a name and the inspiration for our restaurant."