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DINING REVIEWCRAIG LaBAN

The Bell Key Superior: Rare; sets fine-dining standards. Excellent: Excels in every category of the dining experience. Very Good: Interesting, with above-average food.

Chunks of veal marrow, garlicky breadcrumbs, and woodsy chanterelles, left, are primally good, served in a long bone cut in half. The escargot appetizer brings tender snails in Bordelaise gravy, with green favas and wild mushrooms.
Chunks of veal marrow, garlicky breadcrumbs, and woodsy chanterelles, left, are primally good, served in a long bone cut in half. The escargot appetizer brings tender snails in Bordelaise gravy, with green favas and wild mushrooms.Read moreAKIRA SUWA / Staff Photographer
    by Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic | Columnist
    Published 

The Bell Key

Superior: Rare; sets fine-dining standards.

Excellent: Excels in every category of the dining experience.

Very Good: Interesting, with above-average food.

Hit-or-miss.

No bells: Poor.