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DINING REVIEWCRAIG LaBAN
The Bell Key Superior: Rare; sets fine-dining standards. Excellent: Excels in every category of the dining experience. Very Good: Interesting, with above-average food.
![Chunks of veal marrow, garlicky breadcrumbs, and woodsy chanterelles, left, are primally good, served in a long bone cut in half. The escargot appetizer brings tender snails in Bordelaise gravy, with green favas and wild mushrooms.](https://www.inquirer.com/resizer/MO-ohtK_7MHDnGGIoqdcwCRv9Ak=/760x507/smart/filters:format(webp)/arc-anglerfish-arc2-prod-pmn.s3.amazonaws.com/public/53ZQ7NYTE5CWDATHD2L6AGEO6Q.jpg)
The Bell Key
Superior: Rare; sets fine-dining standards.
Excellent: Excels in every category of the dining experience.
Very Good: Interesting, with above-average food.
Hit-or-miss.
No bells: Poor.